Home DIY

I'm still running a little sound system. I don't have a generator though, not really needed it but I can see why it's interesting working with them in that setting. I suppose with class d amps there are different challenges, they are very easily damaged by current spikes and most of them have protection but they need way less ampage.

Mine was Crown Amps and Martin Audio Speakers. Digital was purely a Lampy DMX512 witchcraft at the time. Generators involved Hiab delivery.

Weight is a big factor for the Mirka. We only use it on nice clean PAR and sheet material so paint isn’t a problem. When you’ve got a kitchen of panels to sand a nice light little sander with great extraction is a big deal. I have a 150mm Festool too but only use it occasionally on site.

Yeah could do - wanna pm?

Boiler isn't happy, service engineer says it's because our flow rate from the mains is only 4 or 5l/m instead of the 8 or 9 we should be getting. I suspect Thames Water will do fuck all about this.

He suggested a booster pump for the boiler supply, but warned that as it would draw from the mains the cold supply to the shower etc would be reduced so the mixing at the shower could be out of wack. Just looked into whole-flat boosting but it looks like we'd need a tank... sounds expensive.

Anyone have experience of this?

We recently had a break tank and pump fitted, as we have a supply from a natural stream so pressure goes up and down, we had a 500l tank and pump all fitted for about £1200 inc VAT, but you do need space for a tank, doesn't have to be 500l and they do fancy slimline things but they do of course increase the cost

Thanks. That's a facepalm - I do not want to spend £1200 to get the water pressure that we should already be receiving.

I believe @Dammit had experience of this being cause by blockage (calcification?) on the mains in pipe

do you know your incoming pressure?

Nope. Downstairs neighbour is in at the weekend though so I'll try and do a timed-bucket-fill from his tap.

Thames Water say they guarantee 0.9bar (about 9l/m) from the ground floor kitchen tap. One of their technical people is going to call me back today.

Was just thinking the same thing, such good TV...

yes 1 bar at the boundary - are you on a shared supply?

Yeah, shared supply. Spoke with the tech person and we basically came to the conclusion that it's almost certainly after the valve in the street / in our building so not their problem. Bummer.

my thoughts too - firstly i would rule out any leaks on the supply
basically shut the valve and see if either meter is still spinning

to remove a chinmey breast does that BC sign off? looking at using gallows brackets
plan is to remove chimneys from both downstairs and upstairs room and at the very least remove the other one from the bedroom

so much for wanting a clean log burner but space is needed in the bedroom

to remove a chinmey breast does that BC sign off?

Yes. Also may require party wall stuff if it abuts next door.

Classic combination. I have a couple of MC2 T1000 powering ElectroVoice ev300's and some handmade 15" cabinets plus active EV ZX5A's running through an A&H SQ5. It's small enough to handle load in/out on my own especially when some of the venues are tricky access.

I have been thinking about selling it off as I only use it a few times a year at the moment and storing it is a pain.

And apparently they don’t like gallows brackets anymore. We used London Building Control as they were a bit more... flexible than the council.

Yes. Also may require party wall stuff if it abuts next door.

i dont think so but i do speak with the neighbour so will have a chat with him

And apparently they don’t like gallows brackets anymore. We used London Building Control as they were a bit more... flexible than the council.

i was reading this in a few places hence me asking - i know two my neighbours across the road have used this method but couldn't see anything on the PP to see a trend

will look at this option though

This chipboard cabinet is going to be removed, but that will reveal where the cill had been cut away.
Without replacing the whole window cill or fitting a PVC cover, what's the best way to replace the end that's been cut off?

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Watergate update: tested my downstairs neighbour’s tap and it’s way better than ours. He’s pulling everything out and will have a plumber around so I’m hopeful we’ll be able to resolve it with a bigger bore pipe or something 🤞

Does anyone know where you can buy a 5mm shelf pin jig that doesn't cost a bonkers amount (i.e. not Kreg)?

I just measure and drill, never really thought a jig was worth bothering with.

Buy a jig? BUY a jig?

Jigs are only ever to be made from offcuts of MDF or ply utilising a little patience. It is however acceptable to buy a depth stop collar for the drill bit.

P.s if you don't have a pillar drill you can make a jig for 90 degree drilling from offcuts of MDF or ply too.

@TW I just made one out of a scrap of 18mm mdf, drilling holes with a hand drill with the edge of a block of wood to keep it square. Then some tape on the drill bit as a depth guide. Total price, £free.