Home DIY

Recently got a replacement integrated dishwasher and managed to get it fitted and workibg without water going everywhere.

Next step is to fix the integrated door on. Is there a suggested method of how to do this to ensure both the machine and door are level?

Don't want to start screwing/drilling into the door only to realise I'm off by a couple of mm. Or am I overthinking this (like most DIY tasks) and it can be done by fixing the door then changing the feet to get it level, and the machine will be fine slightly out of plumb.

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my mistake. carry on.

you didn't out a subfloor down? just curious.

We have a hotpoint dishwasher and I had quite a struggle to find an Ikea door fitting kit to match the kitchen.
The builders doing our kitchen initially tried but then gave up.
I eventually tracked down the correct fitting kit after months and months of hassle.
When it arrived it was SO complicated I gave up and thought the cost of getting someone else to do it was going to be prohibitively expensive.
At a friends suggestion, I ordered a white 6mm acrylic sheet, drilled some holes in the sheet, used nuts and bolts to keep it in place and some CT1 glue, and it looks great.
(I haven't taken a photo for fear of jinxing it but can if you wish)

If you mask up well beforehand then they can be quite good. I painted the inside of my garage walls with the £30 HVLP sprayer from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07BFF4PVX/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=youtubeco0322-21&linkId=a80898c8e05a88eb985cac086528190a&language=en_GB
as featured on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwgxAEWUlgA

Thinning the paint was a bit of a pain but once we knew what proportion of paint to water we needed we could just repeat as necessary. It gets hot too, which dries the paint on the nozzle so you need to pick that off every now and again to clear it.

We did need a lot of coats, but even so it covered a large area faster than a roller.
The finish is great, and is really the only way to paint uneven and porous surfaces such as breezeblocks or old brickwork, plus the paint stabilises the surface, so less prep is required.

I imagine they are also the only decent way to paint Farrow & Ball modern emulsion which is fucking awful stuff to brush or roller on.

Nope. The pine boards in the rest of the house are fine so I didn’t want to change the floor level. I don’t really know the advantage it would give either, but it would add a load of extra cost and hassle.

healthy amount of snark accumulating now..

I agree with floor level, and that would have been my priority also.

did you resurface the floor afterwards?

turned out really nice.

you really did an outstanding job.

Anyone have any opinion on this deck foundation layout? Top of deck is 200 - 250mm above ground level. Intention is to use C16 2x5's and 100 x 100mm PT fence posts in concrete. I'd like to do as little fence post digging as possible...

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We're looking to paint our kitchen cabinet doors with this stuff, is it really that bad?

An auger helps,
assuming your topsoil is not full of hardcore.

Please don't paint your doors with emulsion.

F&B wall paint is a pain either the modern or estate have different problems. The pigments are very good though. I have painted a lot of f&b but I try to avoid it these days as there are better options. Little Green or Mylands would be my usual choice. That's for walls though.

f&b only do acrylic eggshell which can put a lot of kitchen painters off. There are not too many professionals who want to use it to paint kitchens. There's very little to recommend it except maybe the pigments having that certain quality.

Craig and Rose are decent acrylic eggshell paints and work well in kitchens. Decorators Guild if you want to pay f&b prices for Mylands paint but with great colours. There are a few specialist ones that you wouldn't want to start with. Unsurprisingly most kitchens painters are into paint brands most householders have never heard of!

Nice one, ta.

+1 for Craig and rose.

Won’t use anything else now.

Cheers, I’m happy with it but also learned plenty along the way.

The boards were in pretty good nick, so just sanded with a belt sander with 80 then 120 grit. I could foresee that being a nightmare in other circumstances. I hired an edge sander when I realised that doing the edges with a random orbit was going to take forever. Belt sander with an extractor did a great job of minimising dust too, the edge sander less so.

It’s had 2 coats of osmo Polyx, but tomorrow I’m going to try and give it a very light sand with the random orbit, and then a 3rd coat of the Osmo as we’ll be away for a week. We weren’t quite careful enough with foot traffic when it was drying after the second coat, so hopefully this will even out a couple spots. But I must admit I’m probably being a bit daft doing a 3rd coat.

How are you fixing your noggins? They might need to be staggered.
What’s the thinking with your end design? It looks like extra weight and complexity to me for minimal benefit (and cutting/fixing it will be a pain) - if it’s stiffness, a 200mm overhang isn’t going anywhere in 2x5 timber, especially once the deck boards are on to tie it all together.
Depending on how you’re fixing the noggins, I would move the inner four posts out slightly so they’re attached to the main joists, which will make it easier to build.

I sprayed some built in wardrobes, alcove units and coving in my old flat.
On flat surfaces the finish is great but it really came into its own on the coving which was really intricate with lots of reliefs.
As mentioned there’s a lot of overspray but it’s manageable if you mask properly.

Nice. Good to know as a technique it’s being used.

Cheers for this, my wife ordered a load of testers and they all came in as matt emulsion, I think the plan is to get the acrylic eggshell. It's super thin and took 3 coats to get decent coverage where we used it, still not entirely convinced on the colours either! Will look at these other options!

Was going to toenail the noggins in but equally happy to stagger them and use screws .

Reason behind the extraness at the sides is to provide fixing points for the picture frame deck boards and a second board to provide fixing point to the ends of each main deck boards. I just quite like the look of a mitred border and its the best option I could come up with to allow me to fix them.

just looked up Craig and Rose, website looks ace and they are currently doing online consultations which is perfect for our needs, thanks for the top tip. Just ordered the catalogue and colour chart

Please don't use screws for framing, especially something like a deck. Nails are a much more suitable fixing for holding a deck together (and just about all other timber framing) as they allow the frame to move slightly without causing damage they also have a much higher shear strength. A galvanised 4” nail will hold very nearly as well as a screw with the added bonus that you can probably buy 15kg of nails (should you want to) for the price of 100 appropriate screws.

Always wondered why nails were still in use.

Thanks to @Bobbo, I am a framing screw-to-nail convert. Granted my deck is not that big and I used screws way over specced for what was actually required. But can totally see the benefit of nails now.

The occasional 200mm Timberlok screw does pull things together nicely though