Home DIY

Looks really nice.

How did you fix the sleepers?

Sounds like a Fawlty Towers question. Lol

150mm screws into 4" posts that are concreted into the ground.

I doubt it but I cannot say I remember having done it as I don't deal with upvc much. I guess that's partly because I renovate sash windows!

Cheers

You'd need to take a feed from the main light switch to fused outlets under the cupboards. As it looks very new and swish I'm guessing you don't want to do all that new work.

A Phillips Hue setup could work if you want to plug in a smart socket under the cupboards.

But if you want to hardwire it you'll have extend the lives from the lighting circuit and find neutrals from above the ceiling.

Cheers. When I thought about it a bit more I remembered I want a pendant further down at the dining table so I'll wait until I get my electrician in and get him to add one or two more circuits. Might just reconfigure the socket powered LEDs I have so they're less annoying for now.

Next issue: whoever fitted the windows and doors in the same room didn't do a great job at fixing the trims. I need to re-do the sealant but thinking I should fix this a bit better first. Masonry screws will do the job here right, no need for rawl plugs? Never used them before. Or are screws totally the wrong method of fixing?

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Osmo Polyx question.
I’ve put 2 coats down on the beech floor. It looks great, but it’s not as even as I’d hoped and we were probably a bit keen with the amount of traffic it had (I’m still trying to erase the memory of my wife putting two stonking dirty foot prints on it).
Can I rub it down with anything to help clear it up before I give it another coat?

Also, there is one slightly noisy board where there’s a tongue and groove butt joint that’s floating between joists that I forgot to glue. NB it was only those joints that I glued. Is it a fools errand to try and drill some tiny holes and syringe some glue in to try and stop it moving/making noise?

CT1. multi solve

Any idea if that would cause any damage to pvc windows when removing silicon?

Wbite pvc frames seem to be OK, but I'd be cautious with foil coated (wood effect) or coloured frames.

I got a can of it a year ago, but only used it once. I think softened silicone, still stuck in the grain of the mortar is worse than a thin layer of well adhered old stuff.
A couple of scrapers, one very sharp and burr free for using on the frame, followed by a scrub with a MF cloth and pvc cleaner seems to work well.
The other scraper gets abused for against the stone work and gets a resharpen with 240grit wet n dry when needed.

Cladco composite. Was going to get the hollow variety after a little visit to my neighbours house who has the solid variety, I was impressed enough to think the premium would be worth it. Feels solid and looks good. More possibilities if you want to go for a picture frame / notch boards out for whatever reason / router fun.

https://www.wpc-decking.co.uk/4m-solid-commercial-grade-composite-decking-board

I like to use a hand pad to scuff up and denib between coats of polyx, I'm not sure how effective it will be after it has fully cured though. I normally do it after 3 or 4 hours of application. Chuck it on a orbital sander to make it a quick job. I think I got this from a Peter Parfit video.

This kind of thing: https://www.selcobw.com/products/painting-decorating/sand-paper-abrasives/professional-assorted-grade-hand-pads-pk-3

From a service engineer of my pvc windows I got the tip to use Makrysol spray for removing sticky tape residu. They use it on foil coated windows as well
https://www.makra.de/makraportal/ProduktDetail.aspx?group=005.04&ID=302-11/S

Rinse the windows properly after using this stuff.

good shout on the clips... I'll look into that. CT1 has been applied and the sink is back in place with supports pushing it up. Will leave it overnight and check how it's hanging tomorrow. Thanks @Airhead and @bobbo for replying back.

Thanks for that.

Also, there is one slightly noisy board where there’s a tongue and groove butt joint that’s floating between joists that I forgot to glue. NB it was only those joints that I glued. Is it a fools errand to try and drill some tiny holes and syringe some glue in to try and stop it moving/making noise?

Normally my solution to this would be to water down PVA glue to make it pretty slack, usually a 2:1 PVA to water ratio then pour it over the joint and spend a good 10 minutes doing a kind of idiotic birdie song shuffle on the boards either side of the joint to work it in between the boards. Once this is done you can put as much weight as possible on the join to try and hold it all down while the glue sets. However it would be a lot of cleaning up on a finished surface and I'd also be terrified of doing that and not quite getting it all up.

Another thing you could try is dovetailing some 18ga pins in (assuming you have access to a 2nd fix nailer). By dovetailing I mean fire in 2 pins close to each other each at at an opposing 30 to 45 degree angle. This way the pins work together to hold down the board (assuming they both hit the board and joist). You will have to fill the holes and make good.

Yeah that’s what I did - just used a scouring pad to denib/pick up any dust that had stuck after both coats. Deffo made it feel a lot better. Reckon I’ll just have to sand some of the bad bits and give it a big recoat.

I should probably just leave it be, but it’s hard to stop fiddling with it.

The issue is that the squeak is related to the floating butt joint. I think I’m gonna try some daft micro drilling and syringing glue in. Above the tongue, the board is back cut to the shoulder (if that makes sense). I assume to help minimise any visible gaps when you knock the boards tight together. So my hope is that I’ll be able to get some glue into the cavity around the shoulder.

I think I’m still in the bargaining stage of remorse.

I've been battling with my washing machine today and I think it's won.

It's been stopping at the draining stage of a cycle and showing an error code. I've taken it apart, cleaned the pump and put it back together again, so I'm fairly confident there's no blockage in it (I removed three coins from the pump filter though).

If you put it on a Drain & Spin only cycle, it will drain and spin - so the pump does work. But at the end of a full programme you get the same error message.

What's it's damn problem?

showing an error code

Does it just say “error” or is it a specific code? Have you googled the model and some variation of the problem?

Ours wasn’t draining well, and was managing to spin a bit, but new brushes sorted the problem - although seems unlikely to be the same issue if yours is spinning ok.

It's this code, and I've tried all of these things to no avail:

https://www.zanussi.co.uk/support/support-articles/laundry/washer-dryers/washer-dryer-displays-error-message-e20-or-c2-emits-2-beeps-or-2-flashes/#:~:text=Issue%3A,It%20indicates%20pumping%20problems.&text=The%20appliance%20makes%20an%20unusual,blockage%20of%20the%20drain%20pump

Then I found this chat where it is suggested it might be a PCB fault:

https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/forum/public-support-forums/help-and-support/washing-machine-help-forum/69361-zanussi-e20-error-code-but-it-can-drain

Thanks for the info.

Had a similar on mine. Took filter and pump out.

Then a relative of mine think turned it on it’s side. And remove the drain hose, there’s a like a light ball similar to a soft play. And just moved that about

Seem to work

It's been stopping at the draining stage of a cycle and showing an error code. I've taken it apart, cleaned the pump and put it back together again, so I'm fairly confident there's no blockage in it (I removed three coins from the pump filter though).

We had similar. Cleaned the filter and whatnot, no improvement. Turned out that a button (thanks Rapha) had got through the filter then wedged in the waste pipe where it joined the soil pipe. Combined with gunk it made a seal that was good enough to bugger a full cycle but a rinse drain was ok.

So check for resistance in the pipe itself. Pull the pipe and run a cycle with it draining in to a bucket. If the flow is anything but a torrent you’ve still got a blockage.

If you're in the South London area, spin doctor Steve for washing/dishwashers.

OK, so this isn't my own work of course but the roofers did a great job on the leadwork over the bedroom window. The welding would be fit for a welding porn thread. Hopefully good for another 85 years. No more getting the buckets and towels out when it rains. Just a small bit of cement to finish on top of the wall with the neighbours.

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