Home DIY

@Bobbo - so If I have a log cabin but put batons on the inside to create a vertical frame of sorts but these were not attached to the logs just maybe the floor and roof - could I clad / insulate that as I'm not restricting the movement of the logs?

Hope that made sense.

Instead of caulking, can you use expanding foam strips? The youtube channel that @hugo7 just posted a link to has a nice video showing it's usages iirc.

Will have a look, thanks!

@hugo7 - the 'how not to do it' is an exact replication of my method to date, so the video is very much appreciated!

Thanks, that’s exactly the type of thing I had in mind though more work than I wanted to do. My housemate can weld so will probably have a go at it ourselves if it comes to it.

I was considering a keypad entry also, but they all seem to have a latch on the back. Is there any with double sided keypad, or keypad one side and a key on the other?

I've not seen one like that, doesn't mean they don't exist though.

Codelocks are OK but external ones get expensive as they are built to prevent being forced open. The ones I fit to external doors are about £400.

Those silicon shaping things are awesome - highly recommend.

Always check the square of your circular saw before you start cutting. Offer a combination square against the sole of the plate and put the tongue of the square against the blade and adjust if necessary, if you drop the saw while working check it in this way before cutting again and adjust if needed. If your blade is square to the sole of the saw but still cutting on the piss it's time for a new blade as this means the teeth on one side of the blade are duller then the other, this pushes the saw out of square. You can get blades sharpened but for a blade for the average sized skilsaw it's more cost effective to bin it and buy a new one.

To be honest with you for constructing a deck I wouldn't use screws. I'd either nail the frame together with 4" galvanised nails, or use small joist hangers with square twist nails (this will take much longer and cost more) you don't need to use the over top type joist hangers as they are overkill for a deck just the small seats that nail into the face of the timbers will do and cost much less save timbalock screws for attaching any uprights to the frame.

Robin Clevett from skill builder has just started a video series on building a deck in his own channel it may be useful for you:

https://youtu.be/yoOHZZWfU4o

In this situation I would use acrylic caulk apply it as normal and then use cheap wet wipes wrapped around your finger to clean the excess off. That stuff is water soluble until dry so it's much easier to get a good even finish on less than optimal joins. Just make sure that you change the wet wipe when the excess caulk starts building up on it.

Yes it did make sense but I'd still advise against it. With those cabins as the logs expand and contract the ceiling height will change.

If you really must out up a stud wall the way to do it is this:

1. You need to attach the battens every 3rd log.
   
2. Where the battens are attached they have to be fixed so that movement can occur. Cut a 20mm slot that is ~ 1mm wider than the diameter of your fixing at every fixing point. You will need a washer between the wall and the batten and also between the fixing and the batten. The head of the fixing will also need to be countersunk into the batten.
   
3. Some sort of shadow gap will need to be left at the top and bottom of the wall to allow for expansion etc.
   
   

Some companies who sell these things will come back after about 3 months to fit a plasterboard wall as the the highest rate of movement will always occure while the structure is settling. But this causes problems I would always advise against it.

Cheers, I suspect some of the issue was not supporting the lengths properly, so they’d trim themselves out of square as they fell.

I have a load of square twist nails left over so I’ll look at hangers but as you mention, the cost soon adds up!
4” Galv nails could work, i’ll have to check I’ve got clearance to swing a hammer though - some of the corners are pretty tight.

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To the best of my knowledge you may be able to get 2 codelocks depending on the brand and attach them so there is one on either side the knobs would have to turn in opposite directions though. Couple of things to bear in mind:

1. Generally speaking locks open easier from the inside for a reason. To aid egress in an emergency.
   
2. If you are living in a building that is considered a house of multiple occupation you are potentially opening up a legal hornets nest. Are you the owner of the building?
   

1. we have a fire escape at the rear of the unit (where bedrooms are) So hopefully will be ok.

2. Grey area where it is used as an HMO, but officially the building use is commercial. I follow the regs for HMO when it comes to things like fire safety and electrics. Less bothered about having the ‘correct’ number of sinks in the kitchen etc. I don’t own the place but the landlord is not really interested in anything other than having the rent paid.

Found this one so will check if it fits/where I stand in regards to fire regs.

https://www.meridian-security.co.uk/digi-locks-c4/digi-locks-c46/borg-satin-chrome-bl2021-digital-double-sided-lock-p506/s509?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=borg-satin-chrome-bl2021-digital-double-sided-back-to-back-lock-borg2021&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads&cid=GBP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz6ynnfyc6QIVjLTtCh1hmwBiEAQYAiABEgLBkvD_BwE

I understand why you want this sorted. However you need to check with the landlord before doing anything. Contact him in writing and explain what you want to do and that you're happy to meet the cost (I'm assuming that this is the case given the way you are going about things). Give him multiple opportunities to reply if he still isn't replying I'd personally proceed with caution. I'm not 100% current with HMO legislation but it can be very strictly enforced for good reason so I'd be wary of that if you are in a grey area, as it would only take one jobsworth inspector to make life very difficult for your landlord and therefore you. Same goes with fire regs.

dm'd

I only use that type of code lock on internal doors. They aren't weatherproof.

More hassle than it’s worth by the sound of it. I think I’ll just leave it and tell my housemates to stop being so lazy. Thanks for the advice(s)

they sell adhesive hooks which are basically permanent until you want to remove them. Would work perfectly.

example: https://www.amazon.com/FOTYRIG-Adhesive-Waterproof-Stainless-Bathroom/dp/B07DS5MDD3?ref_=ws_cp_55a790cd4761cecad64b_p_1_i_p&th=1

it's not something where caulk would normally perform well.

you could replace the baseboard, but that not simple and would need paint as well as new matching baseboard.

you could get small thin strip of wood and augment the existing baseboard taking care to appose the floor well, then paint.

I would personally leave it alone.

unfortunately removing that caulk is going to be near impossible.

Got some western red cedar in for the slats on steel frames outdoor furniture I’m making.

Is this the approved storage method @Bobbo? It’s PAR but surface is cold and a little damp to the touch. None of the bits will be longer than 1200mm and most will be 600mm once cut so bowing should be too much of an issue, but might as well do things the right way.

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Outdoor furniture you say...

Do any of those have a bit of an existing arc? Storing them arc up can help straighten things out.

Looks good put some weight on the stickers to hold it down for a belt and braces approach.

Always check the square of your circular saw before you start cutting. Offer a combination square against the sole of the plate and put the tongue of the square against the blade and adjust if necessary, if you drop the saw while working check it in this way before cutting again and adjust if needed. If your blade is square to the sole of the saw but still cutting on the piss it's time for a new blade as this means the teeth on one side of the blade are duller then the other, this pushes the saw out of square. You can get blades sharpened but for a blade for the average sized skilsaw it's more cost effective to bin it and buy a new one.

Brilliant advice, thank you.

.

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