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  • What can I use to fill the gap between the door and floor. At the moment it seems theecarpet was there and when they fitted the door just cut it


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  • @tbc I don't think it will look strange if the colours don't match. Looking forward to seeing the floor! Are you sanding yourself or getting the pros in?

  • White silicone would seem a fast and easy answer.

    Just make it look better than the stuff on the right hand side.

  • I think I'm going to do it myself, using the superb guide produced by @Bobbo further up the thread.

    I'm not sure when, though - at the moment there's nowhere to put the stuff I need to move out of the room before I begin.

  • Yeah it’s quite a mess in the porch so will give it a good clean.

    Need to work out how to box in the pipes and cable. In a much smaller eater way

  • It's difficult to tell. Is the door actually sat onto some carpet?

    From the picture, I'd say your door hinges need adjusting, as the 45deg mitre of the door would normally meet nicely in the corner of the frame.
    With a pencil, mark all 4 corners of the door and see how uneven its sitting in the frame.

    Scrape off that sealant mess at the side with a sharp and flat scraper. Then clean off the residue with a pvcu solvent cleaner.

    Dark brown sealant could work well between the bottom of the door frame and the brick/tiled floor. As you can mask off a nice straight line across the threshold of the door frame and any wobblyness on the uneven tiles won't be so pronounced compared with white sealant.

    For boxing in pipes, some of this may work. The short leg is about 25mm and has a finished edge, so can look quite neat.
    You should be able to get some through a window company if you don't need 5m.
    https://www.eurocell.co.uk/capping-board/capping-board-9mm

  • i shall have a proper look and see how it’s been fitted. When I did remove it I can feel a draught
    I do need to change the whole door to a one door as Trying to squeeze through one is not easy with shopping

    This is what needs to be tidied up so those capping boards look ideal. Excuse the mess tryna to sort the house out you can see how they previously boxed it.

    Edit: looks like it’s sitting on the carpet so I can only assume the carpet was there first anyways it’s a mess as the sealant or whatever has been used is coming away. Will expanding foam work?


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  • What are the chances of me cutting out these 2.5 tiles without fucking up any of the others? I'd like to install an inset doormat in their place. Door is too low to put one on top.


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  • Can anyone advise if there is a product I can use to close the rather large holes feeding the cables into the back of my consumer unit? Keep finding mice droppings inside the box so they must be coming up from behind the wall. Was thinking of expanding foam but I am concerned I may accidently create a fire hazard.

  • You can get intumescent expanding foam that is good for such uses. I'd recommend using a gun if you've got one.

  • Reckon it's doable but depends on your feel with a chisel etc. You only really need to be careful near the grout line. Drill the centres or as many holes as you want then gently crack and pick out the tile and adhesive. I'd us a multi tool and a selection of very sharp chisels, they won't stay sharp for long but you don't want too much blunt force.

  • Theres a kind of black electrically inert putty that's used for potting exterior boxes.

    It remains mouldable/removable so no electrician can complain and you don't run the risk of damaging stuff with expanding foam. I don't know if mice eat it but I guess not.

    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BIR391.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=315107931576&placement=&kw=&network=u&matchtype=&ad_type=&product_id=BIR391&product_partition_id=576185600382&campaign=shopping&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=Cj0KCQiAxfzvBRCZARIsAGA7YMwEKDxQTm6P0vr7U1DP8Nukv_wiP0Xce9PAln07D47OMXd3Q7SCzCYaAu5rEALw_wcB

  • Thanks. Doubt I'll get to it soon, but that's good advice. I'll keep my SDS away from it.

  • Me again. Anyone got a source of decking frame template designs? I'm starting to sketch something out in CAD to get an idea of costs, but want some ideas about the best way to lay things out. It is going to be ground level. This is what I have so far either supported on slabs or small posts.


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  • I'm nearly ready to go with the floor sanding.

    However, as well as removing a load of staples(!) and punching down some nails, I also have a couple of holes that I probably need to address.

    Are these holes that I could fill with the filler/sawdust mix, or do I need some more substantial solution before I get started? (Hopefully next week)


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  • Have just spent the last 3 weeks laying 70sqm of decking.
    Basic rules we stuck to are, 6x 2 joists at 400mm centres, with posts on every third joist. We then used bearers running underneath the joists whenever there are posts in the ground. Doing it like this guarantees zero bounce in the deck.

    Any joins should be supported by a double joist.

    We used 8x4 green oak sleepers ripped in half to 4x4 for the posts and then used post saver sleeves for extra protection.

    Few random not quite finished photos attached


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  • Looks like you've had some weather there!

    Where is that house? Looks somewhere near the coast - East Anglia?

  • Some weather would be an understatement, we have had biblical stuff, which when combined with deep sticky clay makes for fun times.

    House is in deepest darkest Devon, it’s the old family farmhouse which we are slowly upgrading.

  • Are there any electricians in the thread? I'm thinking about doing some training/trying to get into the trade and I've got a couple of questions I'd like to ask!

  • Floors are in good condition, filler should fill gaps bigger than that.

  • Filler / sawdust should be ok but it will slump as it dries. You could try to put some 2 pack filler into the bottom of the holes and bring it up to 1 - 2mm below the level of the floor and this will guarantee that you don't get any slump.

  • That's some gold standard decking! Lovely job.

  • Why thank you!

    It has been a lot of graft. Literally impossible to dig single holes, so had to dig trenches then backfill.

    And it is obviously when you are working to mm tolerances you realise that the extension on the house has a 25mm bulge...

  • Me.

    Ask away or PM me.

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Home DIY

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