Sturmey Archer S2C/S2

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  • Does anyone know of any london shops that have these to test?

    On what bike ?

    Folders ? I did see Condor had a show model with one in - but don't think it was out for demos.

  • Not many bikes with them as OEM - Moulton TSR2 and Pashley Guvnor are the only ones that spring to mind...?

  • On what bike ?

    Not so bothered on the bike, ideally 700c with a 28c(ish) tyre. I just want to see what the actual action is like.... and also the weight.

    I've got an idea of building some sort of town bike based on a english 27" racing frame, and I like the idea of the kickback with something like the ceramic Rigida's (Grizzly?).

    Anyway, coaster and fixed hubs are cheap, and I can always try a standard freewheel... but this obviously doesn't fall into those categories.

    So I'll check with Condor.

    Cheers.

  • The action is nice, the weight is noticeable, but then you've got an extra gear for getting up hills/accelerating anyway. The hub is 1.5kg which is 1.2kg heavier than an average rear hub - that's the difference between a full 1l water bottle and an empty one (well, almost).

    To be honest, it's not the kind of hub that you'd want to put on a weight-weenie bike in the first place. But it's great for a slightly more relaxed town bike.

  • For me, am just doing it for fun - something to play with and it does not need me to run any more cables. Perfect to mess around with.

  • Yep, I really like the idea of gears with no cables. When I first rode my road bike after using a coaster hub to commute, I couldn't help but think "oh, this having to brake with hands is really shit".

    However, I've also realised that coaster brakes do have really shit moments too. Which makes me wonder what the limitations are of the s2.

    As for the weight, all things being equal, I'd always rather have less weight, but I know it's not the be all.

    Thanks for the comments.

  • Yeah, its very "utilitarian" - I wouldn't want to do a time-trial on it... It is fairly heavy but its in the centre of the wheel, and you've lost derailurer, cables, shifter, rear brake, brake lever, etc - that must all add up to a few pounds??

  • If you combined it with a Schlumpf Mountain Drive bottom bracket, you'd have four gears with no cables.

  • If you combined it with a Schlumpf Mountain Drive bottom bracket, you'd have four gears with no cables.

    Ooooo' not seen those before... thats nice and shiny.... wonder.. can I do that as well...{thoughts brew....}

  • The hyper-expensive Pashley Guv'noe PlusFour had a kick-shift rear hub paired with a Schlumpf bottom bracket drive - think it was a bit complicated as to shift to the next gear up/down, you have to change gear on both mechanisms.

  • I think that starts to get too complicated.

    A friend of a friend once asked what the point of fixed or SS was. I said the real question was what the point of gears. Asides from the weight, it sounds like a 2-speed kickback has most of benefits of SS, but with an extra gear. IMO once you start faffing about with more than that, you may as well, just have a +3speed hub or +5speed derailleur.

  • Just ridden it with SPDs - transforms the bike, mainly 'cos you can turn the pedals to get a good starting position at junctions.

  • What, on an S2C? I don't see how pedals can affect that.

  • I've been riding it on flat pedals (actually, SPD-equiped but in normal shoes 'cos its my town bike) - when I get a junction, I invariable find I've got the wrong foot forward or at 12 & 6 o'clock. Can't back pedal to get them to the right starting position. So with SPDs you can at least jam the front brake on, endo it onto the front wheel, and pedal forwards (and usually a "pulling" up-stroke) with the rear wheel in the air to get a good starting position as you'd do on fixed.

  • ^ Just to be clear, do you have the coaster brake version? Or does that happen with the S2 too?

    That's my biggest gripe about coasters, there great for just crusing along, but if you're starting and stopping in a city, it's a bit of a mission sometimes.

  • Yep - coaster-brake S2C. But I imagine you can't back-pedal on the S2 either - just a few degrees to engage the other ratio then no more??

  • I found the coaster a bit tricky for a little while, but you get used to stopping with one foot forwards so you can start in a good position.

  • I like them, there is a delightful Condor in a celeste-ish colour rolling around East London with one on that I had a hand in (not literally) and it works really well, not for everyone though I guess, and the rear wheel weighs a chunk.

  • SRAM announced a 2-speed automatic hub as part of its new IGH range.

    One of the problems with the S2C is that using the coaster (or rotating pedals to start position with the S2) will change gear whether you want to change gear or not - the SRAM one won't do that.

    Nice!

  • Is there an issue with the reaction arm bending the chain stay on braking? My frame is 531 and quite light.

  • Some friends and I did a group buy of 6 S2Cs last fall. 4 out of the 4 built up units regularly experience mis-shifts, one of the hubs innards completely imploded. 2 of these are regularly used in commuting, 2 are occasionally used. I'm attempting to return mine.
    Buyer beware.

  • Starting to look at an alternative fixed rear for my S2C-equiped Moulton. Moulton list the gear ratios for the bike as 51" (direct) and 70" - but I can't get a 44x17t on 1 3/8" 20"-wheel to come out at 51". Sheldon gives it as 47.7", Gear Inchy as 47.4" and CTC's spreadsheet as 49". Am I missing something??

    Anyhoo, I'm looking for mid/upper-sixty-something gear inches. So go up 4-teeth on the chainring and down 4-teeth on the sprocket to keep same chain length: 48x13t gives a nice useable 68". (It would be better just to go down on the rear sprocket but 44x12 to give 67" would see the wheel out of the back of the dropouts with an inch-and-a-quarter more chain). So it seems I need to find a 104-PCD 4-arm 48t chainring...

  • Starting to look at an alternative fixed rear for my S2C-equiped Moulton. Moulton list the gear ratios for the bike as 51" (direct) and 70" - but I can't get a 44x17t on 1 3/8" 20"-wheel to come out at 51". Sheldon gives it as 47.7", Gear Inchy as 47.4" and CTC's spreadsheet as 49". Am I missing something??

    Anyhoo, I'm looking for mid/upper-sixty-something gear inches. So go up 4-teeth on the chainring and down 4-teeth on the sprocket to keep same chain length: 48x13t gives a nice useable 68". (It would be better just to go down on the rear sprocket but 44x12 to give 67" would see the wheel out of the back of the dropouts with an inch-and-a-quarter more chain). So it seems I need to find a 104-PCD 4-arm 48t chainring...

    I was wondering if you'd be interested in selling the one off your moulton or perhaps the other one you mentioned before off jammy (if you still have it) Cheerz! Mike

  • I was reading your post from 2010 about this hub.
    have you got any updates as I am thinking of buying one in the new year

  • does anyone know anywhere in London I could buy this hub built into a wheel already?

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Sturmey Archer S2C/S2

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