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• #1502
ah yes
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• #1503
Lo pro with long jag stem, crazy. Any ideas how much an old disc rear wheel would roughly cost, 100GN's?
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• #1504
Reminds me of a tachyon.
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• #1505
Lo pro with long jag stem, crazy. Any ideas how much an old disc rear wheel would roughly cost, 100GN's?
Cost me about a ton, in the shown condition.
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• #1506
Silly question, but is it worth it?
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• #1507
I dunno, I just always wanted a disc and had a bit of cash so I bought it.
The noise alone is worth it to me...
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• #1508
things fixie skidderz say >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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• #1509
No shame
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• #1510
you better not kill that disk wheel
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• #1511
Lo pro with long jag stem, crazy. Any ideas how much an old disc rear wheel would roughly cost, 100GN's?
got my Zipp 950 (tub) for £150 on ebay
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• #1512
Good to know a rough price, thanks. Would love to know how much difference it would make, in say a club 10.
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• #1513
You can borrow mine some time if you want.
It's in quite rough in some spots. -
• #1514
Good to know a rough price, thanks. Would love to know how much difference it would make, in say a club 10.
If you're doing about 26:00 now with 32 spoke wheels, a rear disc on its own will save 6s to 13s over 10 miles depending on how bad your current wheel is. A front disc is worth about double the time saving, but not CTT legal. A Zipp 808FC, though, is almost as good as a disc. Taken together, you're looking at about 40s for a slow rider by going from classic road wheels to the best TT wheel set. Time savings for fast people will be considerably less.
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• #1515
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• #1516
Lovely! I really need to sort out nice front wheel when I get some cash.
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• #1517
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• #1518
is that a zullo upside down in the background?
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• #1519
Unfortunately not: it's an Orbit.
I was desperate for that Zullo, a) because I love Zullo and b) so I'd have a "not quite matching" pair with the Orbit.
Unfortunately I couldn't get the cash together in time...
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• #1520
What are your plans for the build?
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• #1521
I thought I'd post LES here...
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• #1522
I've got a 2nd gen. Chorus group, for a "period" build: it was built in 1990.
But I plan to race it, so I'm in two minds as to whether I should concentrate more on function than form.
My biggest dilemma is over the wheels: I haven't got any aero wheels, so it's either Vento/Shamal or trispoke and disc.
Just to complicate things I have both 8 and 9 speed shifters, but nothing else 9 speed. I'll have a single ring up front, so will lose the use of the lowest gear: going 9 speed would effectively give me 8 gears.
Ultimately, I think money will be the deciding factor and this will have "form" and the fixed TT "function".
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• #1523
I'll have a single ring up front, so will lose the use of the lowest gear: going 9 speed would effectively give me 8 gears.
Why do you think that? All the cool kids are rocking 1×10 or 1×11 these days, and we aren't carrying around that dinner plate sprocket not to use it.
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• #1524
On the basis of an exchange I had with you a little while back: I was asking about moving the cranks inboard to allow me to use all the cassette, when running 1x8.
The upshot was that BITD, testers sacrificed the lowest gear(s) for a straighter chainline in the higher ratios.
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• #1525
No, we sacrificed a good chainline in the warm up/bail out gears for better efficiency in the racing gears. We could still get all the gears*.
*unless we had dismantled the block and binned all but the top 3 for weight weenie reasons :-)
Cheers Hugo!
That guy ^^ got the braze-ons removed and track ends put on, I've been thinking and one day it might be nice to do a geared build again though.