Functional bikes. Not Porn not Anti

Ed, saddle to bar drop on my road bikes is about 8 or 9 cm.

The idea behind the comuto-x bike would be to have a work/winter trainer/path/pannier/mudguard bike.

At the moment I have the steel 29er with a rack on it, and it handles like an utter pig. The Cooper CX apparently is not too bad for carrying moderate loads, so would do many of the things I want it to.

So for off road I have a geared ti 29er, and the single speed soon to be fully rigid steel 29er (just need to install the Kona P2 fork on it). I do not need another flat bar bike but a fast commuter with a similar but slightly more upright position to my road and fixed would be very useful, would probably be the workhorse bike. The position would also be a little better for cycle training than the fixie skidder.

Why Ti - I can't think of a material I would rather have a bike made from especially as it would be the foul weather steed.

Sounds like a good build dj.

I think you should get a custom nicolai frame based around their road frame.

Why Ti - I can't think of a material I would rather have a bike made from especially as it would be the foul weather steed.

This is true, after all, steel frames have been known to never last for a long time.

not just re rust, i just like the material, it appeals to me

Velorbi, how does your Lynskey ride? Have you put panniers on it, and if so, how is it for heal clearance and load carrying?

Where are you based, what size did you get?

Velorbi, how does your Lynskey ride? Have you put panniers on it, and if so, how is it for heal clearance and load carrying?

Where are you based, what size did you get?

ML, no panniers or rack yet, just s carradice bag. the chainstays are pretty long though. Ride is very smooth, but i'd attribute a lot of that to the wheels, had some dt swiss hubs and rims put together with cx-ray spokes

if possible, can i come down to Brixton or meet you somewhere to have a test ride?

how tall are you, and what is your inseam measurement, am not sure if I need the ML or L size frame, and am finding it hard to work out

The idea behind the comuto-x bike would be to have a work/winter trainer/path/pannier/mudguard bike.

Such an amazingly useful bike to own. A real 'go to' bike. Some front pannier bags mounted on the rear rack will give you lenty capacity, while being less bulky.

Why Ti - I can't think of a material I would rather have a bike made from especially as it would be the foul weather steed.

You'll spend a shit load of time on this bike. So get a sweet Ti frame if you can afford it. I would'nt go top end for components personally, as shite dies, when used in all weathers. But But just because a bike is practical doesnt mean it needs to be humble (IMHO etc.).

If you do take it for the odd off road jaunt. You'll find it great fun, and a lesson in why you should love the fat tyres on your MTBs ;)

The idea behind the comuto-x bike would be to have a work/winter trainer/path/pannier/mudguard bike.

Such an amazingly useful bike to own. A real 'go to' bike. Some front pannier bags mounted on the rear rack will give you lenty capacity, while being less bulky.

Why Ti - I can't think of a material I would rather have a bike made from especially as it would be the foul weather steed.

You'll spend a shit load of time on this bike. So get a sweet Ti frame if you can afford it. I would'nt go top end for components personally, as shite dies, when used in all weathers. But But just because a bike is practical doesnt mean it needs to be humble (IMHO etc.).

If you do take it for the odd off road jaunt. You'll find it great fun, and a lesson in why you should love the fat tyres on your MTBs ;)

am trying to work out if i should just buy it complete from fatbirds with ultegra or build it up myself (i have some of an old DA 7800 groupset) but to be honest, i dont think i can DIY it for anywhere near the cost of the complete bike.

the ultegra build looks like an appropriate level of components, but would want bb7 not bb5's.

Fatbirds are great by the way - I brought my Yukon from there and they were nothing but helpful.

Try and pop up there to see them if you can.

am trying to work out if i should just buy it complete from fatbirds with ultegra or build it up myself (i have some of an old DA 7800 groupset) but to be honest, i dont think i can DIY it for anywhere near the cost of the complete bike.

the ultegra build looks like an appropriate level of components, but would want bb7 not bb5's.

I think you'd be best off going complete. Selling the BB5 calipers on Ebay as 'take-offs', and buying BB7s isnt going to result in much net cost.

If its an everyday workhorse. having relacement parts is a big bonus. So you could just keep the BB5s, and have the DA in the parts bin, as back-up.

Spec looks good. Would be nice to have open pros, but then open sports have a decent rep too. The Apex build would give better gearing. If you plan to carry anything heavy, or hit the trails.

Kinesis DC37 forks
Shimano Ultegra (6700)
Avid BB5 disc brakes
PRO PLT finishing kit
XT/Open Sport hand built disc wheels
Orbit MX headset
Turnix ti saddle
PRO Gel bar tape
Continental CX Speed tyres
Lynskey alloy seatclamp

Fatbirds are great by the way - I brought my Yukon from there and they were nothing but helpful.

Try and pop up there to see them if you can.

This^

Then ask for a rim upgrade. I'd go with some 29er XC rims. You dont need the braking surface of a road rim, and a 24mm width will improve your tyres in terms of grip, comfort, and rolling.

http://www.fatbirds.co.uk/683/products/dt-swiss-x-470-mtb-sleeve-jointed-29er-disc-rim-32-hole-presta-drilled-black.aspx

Was going to get the notube rims and hope hubs but small furry convinced me that it's wise to stick with the deore/Alex rims on my bike, heavy but bombproof and perfect for everyday riding.

I've got the A23's on my everyday bike - with 25mm tyres, miss the gatorskins at the moment as I've already punctured on my rubino pro tech 3 folding ones.

Trying to plan a trip abroad at the moment (on a tight budget I might like to add).

are the 32 spokes on the DT swiss 29er rim posted by smallfurry strong enough for carrying heavy loads? spoke count seems to start at 36 on a lot of load carriers.

i'm planning on having a similar bike built (not building myself for same reasons as DJ - i can't do it as cheaply!) this summer with reynolds 853 and cross / tourer geo with all braze ons and hopefully 29er rims on it.

From this guy btw: http://www.taylormadebikes.co.uk/

Phenomenal value. Something similar to the white framed bike but they are all custom builds.

also, is bb5 to bb7 a big upgrade or just 5% better performance and 10% lower weight thing?

are the 32 spokes on the DT swiss 29er rim posted by smallfurry strong enough for carrying heavy loads? spoke count seems to start at 36 on a lot of load carriers.

I'm guessing they'd be fine for DJs use. But for proper touring loads its worth going 36 IMHO. Basically its down to spoke tension. The rims I posted have stainless steel eyelets, which allow for a touch more tension. But the added tension you'd want for decent load carrying, is better spread over 36 spokes. Its 12% more spokes after all.

also, is bb5 to bb7 a big upgrade or just 5% better performance and 10% lower weight thing?

Arent the BB7s better to set-up?

Was going to get the notube rims and hope hubs but small furry convinced me that it's wise to stick with the deore/Alex rims on my bike, heavy but bombproof and perfect for everyday riding.

Doesnt sound like me.

Still. Stans stuff is WW stuff. Plus Deore hubs are amazingly solid for the pennys.

It was you, in the CX topic, saying that I should keep the current wheelset as it does the job well.

Arent the BB7s better to set-up?

Much, much better than the BB5.

Much, much better than the BB5.

why - power?

It was you, in the CX topic, saying that I should keep the current wheelset as it does the job well.

Was'nt actually doubting it. I missed the winky smily thingie off. I have great experiance with deore hubs. Plus for a work horse the original wheels do sound fit for purpose.

why - power?

Might be something in the CX thread. But the thing with mechanical disc brakes is getting them set-up nicely. Due to the fact that only one side of the caliper actually moves. Add to this the fact that your road lever doesnt have half the adjustability of a BB7 mtb lever ( I have some, they be aces), and you need all the help you can get. As far as I know power and modulation are theoretically the same for BB7 and BB5.

Loads of people have upgraded 5 - 7. So someone should be able to give a better answer.