Road bike recommendations

Ask James from Brixton, he did what he called the steering wheel test on both forks- hold front wheel in knees, bike facing you, then turn the bars as if turning a steering wheel.

The old fork flexed a lot, the new one is very very stiff. The steerer is much thicker for the same weight, for example.

Seatpost must match stem and bars, doesn't matter what colour the groupset is- unless the seatpost (and sometimes the stem) is part of the groupset.

And Dan- they are different, so ner: http://www.calfeedesign.com/tech-papers/grades-of-carbon-fiber/

Arse.

Ti frames with a carbon fork, look best with a Ti/silver seatpost, and a black stem (to follow from the fork).

sulks

Nah, because then you have the Ti bead blasted surface which is normally very slightly golden, and the silver of the alloy post, which clash and look arse.

A Ti post would look ok.

Buy a Ti bike first, then we might listen to your daft opinions.

I'm not old enough yet

Ha!

I'll remember that comment should ever grow a pair and race that cyclocross bike of yours.

Ballocks. Unless your seat tube angle is 90°, a seat post always has a substantial off axis load, which a few kg of saddle bag will not significantly alter.

So carbon + saddlebag = all good.

I'll remember that comment should ever grow a pair and race that cyclocross bike of yours.

Touche, I'll try to make the Feb 5th one so you can beat me soundly.

Ballocks. Unless your seat tube angle is 90°, a seat post always has a substantial off axis load, which a few kg of saddle bag will not significantly alter.

My bad I bow to your superior knowledge

So carbon + saddlebag = all good.

Accidentally over tightening the seatpost clamp, is far far more dangerous than adding 5% more mass to the saddle.

How would you know It's over tightened though?

You kept tightening after your torque wrench told you to stop?

Maybe a current projects thread would be better suited?

good idea

Tighten till it creaks, then back off half a turn.

Or buy a torque wrench and follow the recommendations on the packaging.

You kept tightening after your torque wrench told you to stop?

My stops turning.

Yours talks? flash bastard!

Three languages, I use it to translate the newspaper when I travel.

okayyyy

Is this a roadie equative of a spacer competition? seeing how much flex you have on the fork and the one with the least amount is the winner?

ftf Ed

MoarSpacers4Evs!

Gone midfoot, lost 20mm of spacers sob

**Free with all of Scoble's recommendations**

I recently bought a Kona Jake the Snake frame and I'm 90% through building it. The intention is to use it as a road bike for a year, possibly do some touring towards the end of summer on it.

Does anyone have any experience using cx bikes as a road bike and tourer? Anything I should watch out for or any tips on putting it together. I should have asked before buying the frame but I figured if it doesn't work I can sell the frame on and transplant everything onto a proper roadbike frame.

Does anyone have any experience using cx bikes as a road bike and tourer? Anything I should watch out for or any tips on putting it together. I should have asked before buying the frame but I figured if it doesn't work I can sell the frame on and transplant everything onto a proper roadbike frame.

I have a CX frame that I use for commuting, trail riding, load carrying etc.

Unloaded it handles really nice as a road bike. But with the rear heavily loaded the handling becomes hard work. So I've added front low-riders to spread the load. Seems to work OK. You can also get a little heel strike with certain panniers, if your chain stays are very long.

So basically. I'm guessing it'll do everything surprisingly well. But that you may want to consider how you load it for touring.

I reckon CX bicycles are perfectly suitable as a light tourer, I.e. credit card touring, bivvy etc.