Sprocket failure

its not my fault you want shitty black spokes.

Black spokes rule...

its not my fault you want shitty black spokes.

Well you wouldn't want me to ride around with un-matching spokes would you? What would the hipsters say?

they'd say "arrrroospok don' need spokes"

Does it make you a dork?

I think that is quite literally the stupidest thing I've read on this forum

The irony was intended.

On-One rear track hubs: http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/HUOOLF/on-one-large-flangetrack-hub

On-One rear track hubs: http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/HUOOLF/on-one-large-flangetrack-hub

Cheers, It was my browser making the page go funny, the buying options don't have buttons on Safari for some reason.

Buy 300mm - you can use the extra for a spokey dokey effect on your brake bridge..

Can I get some actual advice on that question please?

Can I get some actual advice on that question please?

yes buy 292.

yes buy 292.

Many thanks

Can I get some actual advice on that question please?

From me? No.
From someone else? Perhaps.

sorry if i have missed this but, you was going down hill, brakeless and clipped in........ what was the out come???

sorry if i have missed this but, you was going down hill, brakeless and clipped in........ what was the out come???

I unclipped, stuck my foot through the front fork and then went down a side street which turned back up the hill.

It was a very quiet road, it was 1am.

different time and place and that would of been ugly!!

Most larger Evans will sell you black Sapim Race for 50p a pop. That's where I got all mine.

So....

New hub and spokes purchased, wheel rebuilt, sprocket and lockring cleaned and white spirited, all fitted together snugly and everything is looking good.

Brake is purchased and I just need to drill out the back of my fork and fit it. It's cost me stupid money and made my cheap >200 quid build into something a bit more damaging to the wallet.

Thanks for the advice, both useful or otherwise.

So....

New hub and spokes purchased, wheel rebuilt, sprocket and lockring cleaned and white spirited, all fitted together snugly and everything is looking good.

Brake is purchased and I just need to drill out the back of my fork and fit it. It's cost me stupid money and made my cheap >200 quid build into something a bit more damaging to the wallet.

Thanks for the advice, both useful or otherwise.

you fit cog propley this time? cheap used brake - £10, new hub - £20, what the hell did you buy!?

did you grease the cog/lockring and threads after cleaning.

^This.

forget the locktite or anything except very clean thread on cog and hub (clean then white spirit) -

at these torques the 'glue' just acts as a lubricant.

tighten it rortrax style

loads of c r a p,

i grease both: cog and lockring threads with normal grease (otherwise good luck trying to remove a cog later) and tighten it with parktool professional chainwhip and lockring spanner (shitloads of leverage needed. using good combination of parts helps big time aswell) never had a single problem... atleast invest in good rear hub, lockring and cog...

did you grease the cog/lockring and threads after cleaning.

No... I though the idea was to get rid of any type of lubricant.

you fit cog propley this time? cheap used brake - £10, new hub - £20, what the hell did you buy!?

I was talking about my whole build being less than £200

Hub - £20 Spokes - £9 New Shimano brake - £20

My entire build before this week was about £180

I've just added 1/4 of the cost again.

No... I though the idea was to get rid of any type of lubricant.

no that is not the idea.

you dont need there to be friction in the thread, whoever said that is wronggg. greasing it makes it easier to tighten and to get off n protects threads. as long as its tightened enough that pedalling isnt going to tighten it anymore so the lockring is tight that when the backwards force is applied the cog grips the lockring. greasing it wont make it come loose, fitted correctly it is next to impossible to come lose because the forces that are applied tighten either the cog or the lockring.

greasing the threads means you can tighten it up more, and in the long run it'll be easier to remove. grease = good.