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Would there be any option in giving it to your friend for them to sort out? That way they're getting a bike and it's back on the road, the work needed doesn't sounds too extensive.
This is what my gf said. But he's down in Kingston so just getting it there is a mish. Also I don't think he wants to just take on a bike that might not work, when he's perfectly capable of buying one.
Hugo7, after 2 years your battery will need to be replaced. A YTX7L-BS is what you need to look for. The petrol in the carb will, at least, need draining, and some fresh stuff in the tank would help. If you are unlucky the carb will need to be removed and cleaned.
Have you taken the bar end weight off? It looks as though it has been pushed into the handlebar, and may have jammed the throttle tube/twist grip. The brake lever should be easy, and quite cheap to replace. If you take it off a good parts department will be able to match it.
Cheers.
The plastic of the bottom tube has been pushed in on itself. The photo doesn't really show it very well but you can kind of see how it's creased. But I'll give it another shot. But when I've tried it's well and truely stuck.
(obviously ignore the stone)How tough is draining the carb?
The way I figure it is if I can get it moving, then it can be serviced. But I just don't want to have a 20% markup on all the parts plus 3hrs labour for the work and then have the possibility of a service ontop.
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Oil cooler on my triumph. Gubbed beyond repair or get out the pick set and attempt to polish a turd?
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How does changing a tyre work? Do I need to buy it from the internet and arrange someone to fit it? Or shall I walk in a shop and they'll sort it out? Is it extremely expensive?
By the way, the tread depth specs in the UK law are pretty complicated. My tyre would probably pass it but seems dangerous as the tread in the middle is just about visible.
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Also ride with a bit extra care for the first 50 miles, fresh tyres can have a coat of something that makes them a bit slippy. I learned that lesson the hard way.
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Also ride with a bit extra care for the first 50 miles, fresh tyres can have a coat of something that makes them a bit slippy. I learned that lesson the hard way.
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Was at the (Scottish)Motorbike Show today and think I've convinced myself I need one of these,
0% interest and the 2013 models being reduced is helping.
I've ripped the 125 version (same frame) around a carpark so much fun but build quality isn't something owners shout about , the new yzf r250 looks great though
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New tyres - single best handling mod. Motorbikes just do not work with squared off tyres. Similar sort of effect as notched headrace bearings...bit less pronouced. And yeah, watch the shiny release compound - I scrub it off with a sanding block to avoid nasty surprises.
Just been painting my husky exhaust. All the VHT paints over here are still chock full of toluene an all the other good stuff and work really well. Nice.
Picked up my rebored cylinder and new piston yesterday - re-assembling to commence soon! Need to repack the silencer - baffle had completely fallen to pieces and 420cc of swedish, 2 stroke fireball is going to sound plain obnoxious....
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Right so I've spent a while playing with the throttle twist grip.
I trimmed the crumpled plastic bit with a sharp knife. Then I took it apart (amazes me how simple some of the stuff is on motorbikes).
I've come to the conclusion that I think the bars are bent, which is making the fixed position of the box holding the throttle cable that the twist grip sits in not rotate back cleanly. I tried bending the bars, but to no avail. I managed to get it almost flicking back when things were apart but as soon as I put it back and tightened, it all go stuck again.
Hopefully you can see here and here...
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad106/hugo7_photos/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03/4B021EFD-3740-4BB7-92E5-294AF57B6D41_zpsqsdihhs0.jpg
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad106/hugo7_photos/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03/throttlestuck1_zps135d071d.jpg...as the twist grip is rotating it's rubbing on the inside where the arrow is. I assume this is happening most of the way round the inside. As the body is metal I can't trim it that easily and I don't think there's enough plastic on the section that holds the cable to safely trim.
You can also kinda see on from the backside that it's not sitting properly.
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad106/hugo7_photos/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03/53175E51-6523-4C63-8A63-C56776184684_zpsc7jlpiwe.jpgRe buying new bars, I'm guessing it's the same as bicycles. Clamp diameter, grip diameter need to be the same. Rise and length are optional, but it's best to stick with the same. I'm going to assume ebay's my best best.
This might sound stupid but do all bars have a little hole for the starter motor, twist grips etc. to slot into?
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Ok, so around 8.25 in this video Tim Westwood calls them location holes and says you can file the button bits off and they should hold.. and if they do slip wrapping some foil will help them hold.
http://youtu.be/vWX4Nddkz8o?t=8m25s
Delboy's Garage, Renthal bars, Suzuki Bandit. - YouTube
Could it be worth just filing them off and seeing if I can move the bars into a position where the twist grip rotates cleanly?
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Lol at Tim Westwood, can never work out if I like Del or not, very knowledgeable nonetheless.
Hayabusa engine in a SRAD 600
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Oil cooler on my triumph. Gubbed beyond repair or get out the pick set and attempt to polish a turd?
Radiator comb to straighten the fins and try and clear out debris, but that can take ages. I'd find out how much a replacement is, and if there is an other standard size rad and new hoses.
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Ok, so around 8.25 in this video Tim Westwood calls them location holes and says you can file the button bits off and they should hold.. and if they do slip wrapping some foil will help them hold.
http://youtu.be/vWX4Nddkz8o?t=8m25s
Delboy's Garage, Renthal bars, Suzuki Bandit. - YouTube
Could it be worth just filing them off and seeing if I can move the bars into a position where the twist grip rotates cleanly?
Run a few strips of self amalgamating tape so the controllers don't spin.
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Could it be worth just filing them off and seeing if I can move the bars into a position where the twist grip rotates cleanly?
Buy some new parts, they are cheap enough, and will save a ton of time.
(or find a breaker)
If the bars don't have the location holes for the switchgear file off the tabs and wrap a bit of self amalgamating rubber tape round the bars before putting the switchgear back on.
Stuff for these bikes is bread and butter to the average motorcycle parts shop. Especially things that get bent when the bike falls over. -
Cheers. Both good suggestions. Any way to drop costs is helpful. I'm being a bit tight, but I know how quickly spend can rack up on projects. Plus if I've got to get it MOT'd or if something else crops up...
In other news I've ordered the YTX7L-BS battery from here: http://www.chinesemotorcyclepartsonline.co.uk/partno_GTX7LBS.php
£20.76 for FedEx next day delivery seemed pretty good (it's just been dispatched). Crossing my fingers a bit as I've got no idea what the quality is going to be like. But I figure if my mates using it 5 days a week it should be fine and if it's not he can buy a £30-40 one.
I've also found a couple of places that can order the twist grip. For reference here and this guy on the 'bay. Unfortunately it's a 10 day - 3 week turnaround.
I feel sad I've neglected it for so long as it's a really great bike, but it's definitely taught me to only ever buy popular bikes where a gazillion have been made.
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Does anyone have any understanding of clip-on engines?
I've been given a Trojan MiniMotor - I can only get it to run at close to full throttle and with the inlet set to 'rich', where it misfires and runs hot.
I've checked the obvious - oil/petrol mix, fuel supply, points, plug, HT lead, signs of gasket leaks. Any thoughts?
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Like any 2 stroke engine combustion will be dependent on both the inlet and the exhaust sides of the engine.
The exhaust joints must be gas-tight and the system must generate sufficient back-pressure to keep the un-ignited fuel/air mixture in the cylinder long enough to ignite and push the piston down.
2 strokes are sensitive to the combustion ratio: too lean and it will run hot and seize or hole the piston; too rich and it will oil up the spark plug. It will also need periodic decoking - take the head off and check the piston is intact and clean up the piston and combustion chamber surface.Clean up the plug or use a new one. If it floods then heat the tip of the plug right up with a fag lighter, put it back and try again.
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I've been ok running later 2-strokes - early 60s Sachs and Raleigh/Mobylette - but this seems remarkably crude by comparison.
Gaskets are ok and all is suitably tight - carb was stripped and cleaned a couple of weeks ago - exhaust expansion chamber has a surprisingly large through bore with a silly size slot in the end, which looks much the same as every other Trojan I can find pictures of, suggesting back pressure comes mainly from the manifold?
Fresh fuel might do it - never had problems before so I didn't give it much thought, just mixed from the can the other bikes use.Thanks for your input - it would have been too much to hope that someone would reply with 'I've got one - you just need to adjust the ...'
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@coppiThat
Hugo7, after 2 years your battery will need to be replaced. A YTX7L-BS is what you need to look for. The petrol in the carb will, at least, need draining, and some fresh stuff in the tank would help. If you are unlucky the carb will need to be removed and cleaned.
Have you taken the bar end weight off? It looks as though it has been pushed into the handlebar, and may have jammed the throttle tube/twist grip. The brake lever should be easy, and quite cheap to replace. If you take it off a good parts department will be able to match it.