Motorcycle and Scooter appreciation

Stupid question but are we talking about the same type of bike?

Josh mentions a gs550l which is a 4 cylinder suzuki. No idea if it shim or nut and screw adjustment.

https://youtu.be/V-bkAcieI2k

Seat question was not well phrased..

I'm looking for a brat style seat for a thruxton and was just wondering if anyone seen anything nice that isn't leather. Kind of like the brooks cambium.

Got my welding gear set up! Will be knocking out the expansion chambers in no time. (Not)

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What about using alcantara to upholster something.

@lynx Thanks for the advice guys.

Im hoping I can arrive at a place where the bike runs smooth after a few months. Ill try the fuel mixture settings when out and about and see where I get...

Regarding the valves...that sounds like a big job!?

Checking valve clearances should be pretty easy, while adjusting may not be.

Is there an owners forum for the bike?

"A bad workman" thread >>>>>>

(jealous)

I have no idea, I have not checked. Maybe now is the time.

Haha true! I nerded out about expansion chambers a few years ago when I looked into the maths of how they work. Very keen to make one. The little RS is prime candidate as it has the wrong pipe on it and should have a good bit of potential. Need to wait for the next top end to trace the ports and measure the port timing. I’m not geeky enough to take it apart for the sake of it…

Try to get some picture up but someone has built 52rwbhp grom. The 223 engine is used I think but with a lot of work..

There was one over here I posted with a YZ250 engine. Insane.

It's easier on a 2 cylinder boxer engine!

You need to remove the timing cover and rotate the engine to different points in the stroke where the valves are fully open, check the gap between valve and tappet, adjust if necessary. It's one of the most basic engine adjustments but a tight or loose tappet will change the amount of time the piston can suck or blow through the valves. So it can change the amount of vacuum you are getting on the inlet port.

It's pretty normal to check the timing at the same time.

Checking valve clearance is relatively straightforward - I was taught the EOIC method and it seems to work on everything. Basically, when you see the exhaust valves opening, check the intake valve clearance, when you see the intake valves closing, check the exhaust. I rarely have to adjust intake valves but exhausts can tighten over time, hard starting if nothing else is wrong can be a symptom.

If the valve adjustment is done by screw and locknut, you're golden - it's as easy as undoing a locknut and just turning the screw enough to create a little drag on the right size feeler gauge. Then doing the locknut up again and rechecking.

The other method is bucket and shim, more complicated as you have to measure the clearance, then order the right shims to get to the correct value. The tricky bit, is you have to remove the cams to get to them - not the end of the world but does mean you have to be very careful getting the camchain back on correctly so the (cam) timing is correct.

Expect bucket and shims to take 3 times as long easily if you need to make adjustments, and you'll have to order parts too.

Do you warm the engine first? I guess it depends on the manufacturers instructions.

Whatever is says in the manual - usually cold for bikes, though I think hot is more of a thing with cars.

@josh Just reading back, Lynx is dead right about checking valve clearances if you can't balance the carbs. Bet that cylinder has a tight exhaust valve.

If the valve adjustment is done by screw and locknut, you're golden - it's as easy as undoing a locknut and just turning the screw enough to create a little drag on the right size feeler gauge. Then doing the locknut up again and rechecking.

But how many times have I had to do this 10 times before I'm happy with the feel of the feeler!

What about using alcantara to upholster something

Aesthetically something different than leather.

I started with cars so always end up checking the manual. I enjoy the job more on cars. Used to spend hours on the Renault 4. Ran like a sewing machine. Easy enough to keep the distributor a little loose and dial the ignition in by ear.

Meh, I'm not mad about four strokes in general. It's still a toss up whether I do them myself on anything with bucket and shim, particularly multis. I've done GSXRs a couple of times over the years and even just getting the rocker cover off/on is a fucking major ballache.

Fortunately that's the only bike I have with bucket and shim and I don't ride it enough to worry!

How about a nice moquette fabric. Or an outdoor canvas used on garden furniture. Plenty of heavy use seat materials out there and most upholstery companies would be able to pad out a seat to your desired comfort level.

Expect bucket and shims to take 3 times as long easily if you need to make adjustments, and you'll have to order parts too.

At least. But ducati seem easy and they have opener and closer shims!

Not good if it gets wet.

Without emission laws I wonder what we would be seeing from manufacturers in 2 strokes these days.