To all you 29er's out there!

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  • I've already done 2.5 stone!! Anymore and I'll look like you, ya skinny fucker!!
    :0)
    It's still anti though, with the aero seatube modification!

    Now, get back into the hipster thread !!

    Come on you reds!!!! Tell Sam that she can get it on sky plus ;0)

  • So i just seen my ideal 29er, the SE Stout 29er, but seems its not available in the UK and i think they don't even make it any more.

    The V-brakes means i could use a flip flop hub and i prefer the simplicity of them anyway.

    Any one know of anything similar? all i know of is the On-one Pompino which only fits 700c-32 and i already have that frame.

  • I was looking for some jones bars though!
    I'm hoping for that......the bike weighs in at 32.5lbs as is.....I've only got to get a bit off. Wheels and chainset, and it will be nearly 25ish.....!

    These are pretty cheap. Not sure where to buy them in the UK though.

    http://humpert.com/en/bikeparts/marke/produktart/einsatzbereich/produkt/?marke=ergotec&produktart=1&einsatzbereich=1&produkt=128

  • Any one know of anything similar? .

    MK1 Onone inbred 29er,
    Surly Ogre,
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=81000

  • ^^^ A pre 2012 Karate Monkey? Surly only got rid of the v brake mounts this year.

    http://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/m4b103s251p1653/SURLY_Karate_Monkey_29%5C_inch_Frameset

    Only 20" available though.

  • Any one know of anything similar? all i know of is the On-one Pompino which only fits 700c-32 and i already have that frame.

    Redline monocog?

  • Not so keen on the BMC I posted up top, but I like this one.

  • I like the first one better.....but I have a dislike for blue bikes! Tart.

    Cheers for the link, smallfurry, but I don't like the look of those at all!... I'll get some titec j bars or jones loop bars when I can find some.

    So, got my first fecking puncture today, small thorn, in and out. Bearing in mind I will be swapping these wheels out soon, and I don't want to add weight by putting some doctor sludge tubes in, what is the cheapest way of making them tubeless?
    I've seen the stans kits for around the £50 mark, but wondered if anyone knows a cheaper all in one product?
    I've never done it before, but I don't want thorn flats in the middle of nowhere again!

  • look up ghetto tubeless on mtbr

    you use half an inner tube (including the valve) to line the rim (often a 26 inch inner tube so it pulls tight to the rim) make sure the valve core can be removed

    then mount your tyre and try to inflate it, if the bead will lock you let out the air, remove the valve core, squirt in sealant and re inflate.

    then shake the wheel around, cover in soapy water and watch for bubbles...

    my explanation is a bit shit, so would suggest you read up a bit

  • MK1 Onone inbred 29er,
    Surly Ogre,
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=81000

    That Vitus looks ideal, more affordable than most, i don't really need anything to fancy for a part time mtb

    Thanks for the help

  • look up ghetto tubeless on mtbr

    you use half an inner tube (including the valve) to line the rim (often a 26 inch inner tube so it pulls tight to the rim) make sure the valve core can be removed

    then mount your tyre and try to inflate it, if the bead will lock you let out the air, remove the valve core, squirt in sealant and re inflate.

    then shake the wheel around, cover in soapy water and watch for bubbles...

    my explanation is a bit shit, so would suggest you read up a bit

    Cheers bud, I'll try to cobble something together at the weekend!

    I'm having a day off the bike today and am off to play 'swish fuck it" today.....or 'golf' as some call it :0)

  • look up ghetto tubeless on mtbr

    you use half an inner tube (including the valve) to line the rim (often a 26 inch inner tube so it pulls tight to the rim) make sure the valve core can be removed

    then mount your tyre, and a touch of soapy water to aid bead seating, and try to inflate it, if the bead will lock you let out the air, remove the valve core, squirt in sealant and re inflate.

    then shake the wheel around. so the sealant can fill any tiny air holes.

    my explanation is a decent summation, so would suggest you read up a bit

    Not so much FTFY. But a touch better.

    Definitly use 26" inners. split them along the center of the out edge. Fit them, and then trim to the rim edges.

    If you live near decent hardware stores. You can blend your own sealant too. If you have small children. You probably have glitter, coloured sand etc. lying around. Chuck that in the mix for larger thorn hole sealing.

    BTW thorn punctures are what tubeless does best. I get the occasional pine needle that disobeys physics and manages to peirce a tyre. Tend not to find them embedded, untill washing my bike.

  • Guys what would be the approximate radius of a 29er wheel with a fat-ish offroad tyre? I'm considering getting a 29er built for rigid forks and I wonder if the suspension corrected 26er fork that I already have will be able to accomodate such a wheel.

  • I don't have one to hand to measure, however the version 1 salsa fargo fork ( before they made the suspension corrected version ) was 442mm a-c. Most 26" rigid forks are around 445mm ( 100mm suspension corrected )

    They fit proper off road tyres pretty well.

    http://salsacycles.com/components/fargo_v1_fork

  • If you assume a 2.55" tyre to be 65mm tall, and a 1.9" tyre to be 50mm. You get the following diameter range....

    From-
    622 + (2x65) = 752mm
    down to-
    622 + (2x50) = 722mm

  • Pfft! Maths.... You need a picture ;-)

    Going by the colour, I'm fairly sure that's the version 1.

  • Waits for a detailed caad drawing from Smallfurry.

  • The On-one 26" carbon fork is 440mm A-C.

    Even with 30mm of that taken up by the crown. you get 820mm of tyre diameter clearance.

    So you should have 30mm of mud clearance even with a fat 29er tyre.

  • Thanks for the input, I think I can work with that. I'll put a 28" wheel in the fork and measure from the very edge of the rim to the fork crown and see what kind of space there is.

    Here is a pic of the fork in question with a 26" wheel fitted, I realise you can't say for sure but what do you reckon?

  • Waits for a detailed caad drawing from Smallfurry.

    My critix connection hates bikecad.

    the front end will be 31mm higher with a 29er wheel in there as opposed to a 26er. But I guess you've taken that into account.

  • ^^ Looks like it'd be fine.

    ^ This + you'll want to be careful with that brake cable.

    Actually, the front end of that klein looks quite high already.

  • Thanks for the input, I think I can work with that. I'll put a 28" wheel in the fork and measure from the very edge of the rim to the fork crown and see what kind of space there is.

    Here is a pic of the fork in question with a 26" wheel fitted, I realise you can't say for sure but what do you reckon?

    Loads of room.

    Assuming tyre heights to be equal. Youre taking a rim with a 559mm BSD, and replacing it with a 622mm BSD. So the radius increase is infact only 31mm.

  • While I'm here. Noticed this frame reduced in Charliethebikemongers newsletter.

    Yum.

    http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/canfield-nimble-9-29er-hardtail-frame-1961-p.asp

  • You're right, the front end is pretty high. The frame came with a rigid non-corrected fork so this suspension corrected one raised the handlebars quite a bit.
    I don't intend to swap the front wheel on the Klein with a 29" one though, I'm considering getting a frame that's built for 29" wheels. I'll save a lot of money if I'm able to use a fork that I already have and I'd put the stock fork back on the Klein.

    Edit: thanks for the advice guys, I think I'm going to bite the bullet comes payday.

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To all you 29er's out there!

Posted by Avatar for Rascal @Rascal

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