Goodbye sweetheart - farewell to a dead bike

Lynx, your advice here is exactly what BMMF and others have recommended to me, and has been discussed here in this thread......already.

I take it that you're not reading anybody else's posts then.

The first post about seat post length was more of a theoretical question as the frame has already broken, but then and still am really wondering where the stresses (compression or extension) are and the effects on the welds/joins in that area. Also thinking that is the clamp area the only area that connects or is it the whole length. If the seat post was a laid back one how would that alter the scenario.

Having had the fortune of when I have bought my only new road bike that I ended up enjoying the smaller frame after having both for about 250 miles. I was also giving my opinion.

I've gone for the hat-trick.

The Bowery cracked at the seat cluster at the edge of the toptube.
The first Capo 5 cracked at the seat cluster at the top of the seattube, above the toptube.
The second Capo has cracked at the rear of the seatcluster.

Three differently placed cracks, yet all at the seatcluster. On all occasions, the seatpost was well seated in the frame.

Ashley,

http://www.thebikewhisperer.co.uk/

Before you decided on frame size.

ed

like all of us here, Ashe likes giving advice but not receiving it

I like receiving it [/oo-er].

I don't like people putting words in my mouth though [/slightly oo-er].

I don't like people putting words in my mouth...

^he is fine with penises though

Don't confuse me with dancing james, or I'll tell British Cycling about how you and dj tag-teamed Dave Creasy in the lockup whilst wearing crotchless Team Sky skinsuits.

I've gone for the hat-trick.

The Bowery cracked at the seat cluster at the edge of the toptube.
The first Capo 5 cracked at the seat cluster at the top of the seattube, above the toptube.
The second Capo has cracked at the rear of the seatcluster.

Three differently placed cracks, yet all at the seatcluster. On all occasions, the seatpost was well seated in the frame.

Glad you discovered this before something nasty happened. With this and the cracked forks thread. I've motivated to give my bikes the once over. Luckily the realness of my steel frames are holdinging them together.

Only two different bike models, so it could still be a design issue I suppose. But logic points to bike set-up.

You're right!

I agree, that weight would have NOTHING to do with it.

;) ;) ;)

Don't confuse me with dancing james........

Wait a minute. You're mean that you're not actually the same person?

folds arms and gives look of incredulous disbelief

I've gone for the hat-trick.

The Bowery cracked at the seat cluster at the edge of the toptube.
The first Capo 5 cracked at the seat cluster at the top of the seattube, above the toptube.
The second Capo has cracked at the rear of the seatcluster.

Three differently placed cracks, yet all at the seatcluster. On all occasions, the seatpost was well seated in the frame.

I'd suggest trying steel or titanium next time. Alloy frames don't like being bent and will crack, which is why they're always made stiff (aluminium is intrinsically much less stiff than steel, but if you make an alloy frame to dimensions that permits flexing it will always crack quickly as the early builders quickly discovered). In this case, you're big/strong enough and ride on rough enough roads that any frame will flex a bit, so you might as well pick a material that deals with it elegantly.

Why not get the replacement frame from Cannondale, flog it and buy something steel and beefy - maybe an Archie Wilkinson or similar?

This makes me want to give my Trek alu hybrid the once over, being shy of 20st and having the seat post quite high (though within operational limits). It's been fine for 3 years though...

You're right!

I agree, that weight would have NOTHING to do with it.

;) ;) ;)

Obviously weight is part of the equation. I just think its a part that Giant or Cannondale should/have already designed for.

Steff, I'm going to ask Evans Cycles that they recommend to Cannondale, that they allow me to choose a steel bike from the Evans catalogue, of an equivalent price. Either that, or they face giving me a new/replacement frame every year. I doubt they want the bother, the expense, or the bad rep it bestows on them. We'll see. I mean. I can't complain about getting a frame upgrade yearly. It's their loss, not mine. And there is also the matter of legal proceedings......they wouldn't want that....and I could possibly make a case for being sold a frame that is not strong enough for simple commuting. That wouldn't go down very well. I'll just be patient.

Smallfurry, of course, it will be a headache for them if it becomes public knowledge that Cannondale frames don't support heavy people. Consider especially, that in many parts I'd America, I am medium sized, if not puny. Seriously. God Bless America......the country where I am svelte.

GA2G, wait and talk to Scherrit of Bike Whisperer first, that or choose a size bigger.

Both stiff as fook, (BB area) but both fairly expensive. Hippys soma must have been stiff, cos he's a fat bastard, but then he's not putting out 1600watts out the saddle on the top of the banking at manchester...

Only because I'm not training to..

spits on sub 2k wattages

GA2G, wait and talk to Scherrit of Bike Whisperer first, that or choose a size bigger.

I've already conceded that my next bike will be a 56cm. If its actually too big for me, BMMF has agreed to fund the full cost.....as its his call, and I'm listening to him.

As for the Bike Whisperer, when I've got the spare cash....then I'll get fitted.

I've already conceded that my next bike will be a 56cm. If its actually too big for me, BMMF has agreed to fund the full cost.....as its his call, and I'm listening to him.

As for the Bike Whisperer, when I've got the spare cash....then I'll get fitted.

If over time, you've dialled your position in on the current Capo.

Measure:
A) The saddle height
B) The saddle set back relative to BB
C) The saddle to bar distance and drop

Set up (A) and (B) on the new Capo, then dial in (C) with a shorter stem and removal of spacers.

I suspect you'll only be shortening your stem by 10mm or so.

Good points. I think I've always done this naturally, without a measure. Though I agree, just by looking at it, my Bowery is small. Yet if you put the Bowery next to either my old Capo or the newer one, you'd find the contact points were in the same positions. Saddle height is exactly the same. Handlebars, again, are at the same height, and reach from saddle is the similar, though a tad shorter on the Bowery. This was the standout flaw.

But there is no question that the advice I've been given is top notch. It is. So I'll just have to dial in the 56cm when I get it. Lesson most definitely learned. I'll probably sell the Bowery and get something better fitting as well.

I am an IAMS cat. ;)

@Smallfurry - I was going to mention that too; which reminds me, I need to update my scribbled notes for various bikes*.

*although obviously most are committed to memory - I can't help myself.