Any question answered...

I didn't find it at all amusing. But I'm quite content that our tastes in cartoons, as in language, differ. (Not smiling smiley etc)
In other news, I'm currently eating dinner that contains tinned tuna (BB Feb 18) and stock cube (BB oct 16) and an avocado that has finally deigned to ripen after about a month of sitting on the worktop pretending to be a large green rock. I really should investigate the back of my cupboards more often...

Old food contains more colour, has to be good for you.

Speaking of avocados, why is it the best ones I've found lately come not from one of the 6 food stores (German, Italian, Organic, supermarket and a few convenience stores) within a 5 minute walk from our place, but the chain drugstore just over the main road? I buy a bag at the best price around (close to our downtown anyway) and within a couple of days they're perfect, and lasting in the fridge for up to a week!
I'm also really sick, so this all may come off as a little strange.

Your number has been hijacked by scammers.

My mum regularly sends photos of things she’s found at the back of the cupboard. She’s currently snacking on some seven-years-past-best coconut flakes.

Record is held by 15 year old pot of glucose, which was thankfully entirely solid and therefore inedible.

I assumed that was the case but couldn't really work out why or how, and how to fix it.

Anyone know of any UK based wheel builders, that offer delivery to Belfast NI?

Looking Phil Wood track hubs F&R, laced to H Plus Son Archetype

Possibly https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/

@cycleclinic stocks H Plus Son and Phil front hubs, but not rear - maybe he can source one for your wheels?

Quick questions here that some of you might hopefully be able to answer to. Recently changed BB (due to damaged thread on the frame BB shell) and crankset and having different issues.

1) switched to threadless bottom bracket like this one because of damaged threads as explained. However, the BB has been becoming loose during rides 2 or 3 times ; when re-tightening it, I come to the point that the opposite side of the BB of which I am tightening is turning on itself (no more tightening, as not enough pressure on frame to hold it in position if it makes sens), does someone has a solution for that? Do I need to buy a second BB tool to hold the opposite side while tightening? Is anyone using this kind of BB and running fixed (and facing the same kind of problem)?

3) changed crankset for Shimano 105 Golden arrow FC-S125, but I have a significant difference between crank arms and chainstays distance: the nds crank arm is very close to the chainstay, while the ds crank arm is much more far from the chainstay (very noticeable when looking). Is it normal as this crankset was supposedly design for asymmetrical BB if such thing existed, is the frame maybe bent (and how to check it), etc. Does someone has already faced this issue? Should I try to find a recent crankset and try it on just to compare with crank arms distances with chainstays? What could be the consequences of such an asymmetry? Could this be linked to problem 1) and cause the BB loosening?

Thanks for the potential help

Make a police report and then forward it to your provider.

I wasn't a victim but was receiving such calls (while I was abroad) and when I texted back to ask who it was, I was informed that their numbers (UK mobile) have been spoofed by scammers and they have reported it to the 5-0.

@arup @Vince ?

I'm pretty sure Arup doesn't post wheels out.

How do I get a 11-42 [forty two] MTB cassette working with road Shimano?

The bike has 105 (5800) 11 speed, with the longer cage rear mech, and 50-34 front.

Do I need an MTB rear derailleur, hanger extender, or both...?

(It's for someone travelling who wishes to replicate what they have on their bike at home, and has sent cassette in advance, but doesn't know exactly what they have on their other bike).

Are you taking 9 speed here, cos anything later, nothing matches between road and mtb IIRC

11 speed. Cassette seems to be compatible, getting that on the bike was the easy bit.

So MTB derailleur is not an option? Will check out derailleur hanger extenders.

[Edit - think the answer is to get the customer to send a photo of the rear setup on their bike at home]

Anyone has good or bad thing to say about T47 oversize threaded bottom bracket? I know nothing about it other than it's very expensive (£100 plus a pop) and it doesn't seem like many people have even heard of it. It looks to be one of those high end market parts...

Why the question, you ask? This is what is going to be needed for my bespoked bike apparently.

My most recent two bikes have T47, one of which I have done quite a few miles on, and I can report that it works.

Isn't it meant to have all the benefits of oversized press fit bbs, with the benefits of threaded bbs? It's interesting, that's for sure, but whether it'll become a widely adopted standard isn't clear. You can also get t47 bbs for a lot less than £100.

Isn't it meant to have all the benefits of oversized press fit bbs, with the benefits of threaded bbs?

Not really as it’s the same width as a PF30 shell but then you have to screw cups in to it anyway...which you could do with a BSA shell.

It’s basically an idea for small batch frame builders who want a meaty BB shell but don’t want the hassle of making good a PF30 interface after fixing it in place. There’s not much in it for their customers over a normal BSA shell. Maybe more space for internal routing and stuffs.

the best of both worlds is what I have read online so far... when you say a lot less, it's still way more than the £20 a pop shimano BB I am used to though...

My main concern is that, as you have pointed out, nobody knows if it'd ever become the norm and I was speaking to Jim from BC today, he hasn't even heard of it, so I am worried on the maintenance front more than anything if I am honest...

@Dammit, what bikes are they? Just out of interest.

Are you saying I might be better off asking for a normal PF30 shell? It might not be too late to change it, depends on if he'd made the shell yet or not.

I am spekaing with him later on this week anyway, but want to armed with as many facts and info etc etc

so I am worried on the maintenance front more than anything if I am honest...

Apparently Chris King and White Industries are on board, so that shouldn't be a concern.

Are you using internal Di2 cable routing and / or internal brake cable routing through the BB? If so it's possibly worth it. Just bear in mind you will be using 30mm spindle cranks from SRAM and whatnot. There's probably a 24mm BB out there for it so you can use Shimano cranks but it's going to be niche and probably spendy IDK.

Personally I'd ask why a normal BSA shell absolutely will not work in your situation. And why they wouldn't 'just' use a PF30 shell which is the widely adopted standard.

I am just casually building wheels and would not charge or take new built orders...

Are you saying I might be better off asking for a normal PF30 shell?

Dunno. Do you like creaking noises? If you do, ask for PF30. If not, got for a threaded BB.

If you are using a BSA bb with internal di2 the bb cups may have threads that are too long - Chris King and Hope bb would not work in my Isen as their threads would block the hole from the bb to the chainstay. - I had to resort to shimano as the threads are shorter.