Any question answered...

A few weeks ago, some people were sharing some logos where they'd changed the Specialized logo to say 'Moisturized' and things like that.

My basic and n00b question is: how do you do that? I have very basic skills in GIMP (never used PS) but, like, how do you go about shopping a logo like that?

@Lukas

Google gives me nothing. I suspect it's a custom thing, but people in the thread (can't remember which one now) were just knocking these joke logos out really quickly.

really quickly.

Yeah like just typing it out. The specialized logo will almost certainly be a custom font but you may be able to find something very similar and recreate the whole logo. Unless side by side you may not notice the difference

Eg. https://www.fontyukle.net/en/Bullet-Regular.ttf

Oh yeah that's miles closer to the one I saw in this thread.

Are seatstay and chainstay bridges with mudguard mounts all M5 size? I could take the mudguards off my tourer to check, but that would mean taking the mudguards off my tourer.

Yes normally. Some frames have an m5 boss for mudguards and an m6 boss for a pannier rack but that's unusual. Sometimes the hole at the BB/chainstay bridge is unthreaded and you need a bolt.

Cheers, saved me a faff.

Was me (thanks @Pifko) :-)
It was done in Photoshop, by chopping pieces of the existing logo up (classic '80s-'90s Specialized logo), re-orienting them and piecing them together to create (by approximation) the letters that aren't in the logo.
The typeface is likely trademarked by Specialized and doesn't exist in the public domain, so DIY is the only way unless you have access the the actual font. Fortunately, the letters are fairly consistent in shape and features, so it's not difficult to create the missing letters, and the more you create, the more resources you have create even more, which is why it didn't take long to produce each variation.
I used Photoshop, because it's what I'm familiar with (I studied Product Design and work as a Design Engineer), but next step would be for a 'proper' graphic designer to create a vector path file in Illustrator (which I don't really know how to use), which can in turn be read by a CNC vinyl cutting machine.
I wish I did have the actual font, as it would mean I wouldn't have to pick these logos out of my

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^just read that back and realised it came across a bit patronising. Sorry; didn't mean for it to be so!

Erm, this might be better in some other thread, but title = any, so...

Over the weekend I was cleaning up a frame with a green scrubbing pad and once done I noticed that in places it's not shiny anymore. The paint is still the same colour, but I think I've rubbed off at least some of the clear coat on the main tubes. In other places it's still just as shiny as before.

What's the best way to restore the clear coat so the paint is protected and it's shiny all over?

Would ride etc.

My mate's wife did this to her then new Mercedes to get tar spots off. Oh how he laughed. In your case a can of spray clear coat from Halfords or similar should bring back the lustre.

Polishing with T-Cut or Brasso is good for bringing back the shine on local spots like that. Maybe try on one spot, and if it works, do the others, then follow it up by lightly doing the whole frame (to blend the shiny bits with the restored bits, although this will slightly dull the shine overall, and once that's done, a good going over with a liquid wax-based car polish to bring the gloss back up and help protect it.

Is there a way to remove the logos without damaging the saddle?

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@fizzy.bleach If you do have Illustrator/other vector app skills though, it is more straightforward to download some vector logos (e.g. Specialized, S-Works) which are pretty easy to find, then create the new vector artwork by adapting and adding to those.

Thanks (and @Lukas). I'm learning as I go here, because I assumed GIMP could output vector files.

Will look into this :)

I was cleaning up a frame with a green scrubbing pad

Use the white ones they market as safe for non-stick pans. Also, watch out for grit getting caught in the pad.

GIMP is a raster graphics app.

Try Inkscape.

T-Cut

Give this a go- might yield results and cheap enough if it doesn't. Less skill required than spraying clearcoat.

@Danners: I would never use a scrubbing pad of any type on a painted/varnished frame... use a sponge, or soft brush if you really need to. Green ones will go through metal, they are what you use to get the brushed effect on Ti.

I had a very stained, damaged paint job. Lots of oil and crud that wouldn't move with just a sponge, even when using isopropanol. After about 2 hours of trying gentle methods I'd had enough so I just blasted it quickly with the scourer and soapy water. Lesson learned.

I'm not sure if I've completely removed the lacquer or just damaged it. Since no paint came off it's likely I've just damaged it I guess, so I'll have a go very gently polishing it up as Lukas suggested, and if that doesn't work I guess I'll redo the clearcoat. Not sure the best way to go about that so I may be back to ask later...

Thanks for all the help

I suppose if oil and crud had actually soaked into the clear coat then abrading it a bit is all you can really do. For next time though, you can get scrubbing pads (finishing pads) in various grades in a decent decorators supplies shop. The finest ones are good for buffing out minor clear coat grazes.

Thank you!

Good to know for future reference, thanks!

Magic sponges are a good cheap way to get worked-in dirt out of scratches/abrasions. Can take a bit of elbow grease but they're safe and wont affect the finish at all.