Any question answered...

I wouldn't go bigger than 35mm

Keep the pressures low. 28mm might do you to be fair.

super rattles at 1mm out?

Not sure what else might be causing it - sprocket teeth are touching the side of the chain one on side, chainring teeth touching it at the other.

Makes a horrible noise when I resist pedalling.

Chain wear indicator >1.0.

Replace chain or leave everything and ride until total destruction?

If you have an RCD on the consumer unit then you do not need to worry about electrocuting yourself.

Oh deary dear..
Depends on the rcd rating and measured Zs values for the installation.

Although, if using a modern double insulated (class 2 again) drill and wearing shoes in a dry environment, it is improbable that you will experience an electric shock

But you might flinch at the flash and topple backwards down the stairs and break your neck...

Where can I get custom made bling jewellery similar to what Ali G used to wear? Made from cheap stainless steel. I want to order some rings and necklaces.

Can I fit SRAM GXP cranks straight into an FSA BB? The internet says maybe not as the SRAMs drop to 22mm on the NDS where the FSA is 24mm right through.

Thank you please.

Replace chain and cassette before you worn away the chain ring (if it's not shark toothed already).

Should be replaced even at 0.5.

I know it 'should' be replaced but it wasn't so now I wonder if I fit a new chain will it be shit and waste a new chain or will it extend the life a bit...

@hippy How fucked is your chainring? At that level of wear it sounds like new chain cassette and chainring time.

Also will you be at your coaches birthday party?

Fit a new chain and it will be shit, like properly shit and will cause skipping.

New chain, cassette and possibly chainring.

The internet says maybe not

The internet is, on this occasion, right.

But he isn't called skippy for nothing.

Destroy a bit more as long as you keep an eye on your chainrings.

Then destroy them too.

cheap stainless steel

Does not compute. Stainless steel isn't cheap to buy, but more importantly it's hard work for jewellers, so the extra cost of making in SS exceeds the saving on material compared with easier to work bases such as copper or common alloys of copper/zinc/tin such as pewter, brass and bronze.

Hmm.. Need to eyeball the chainrings.

Recommendations for places to eat near South Ken tube station?

Someone mentioned a Lebanese place called Comptoir Libanais, any good? Any other suggestions?

Ranoush or Maroosh

Is this the correct grease to use for headsets and hub bearings?

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/maintenance-fluids-and-greases/car-maintenance-accessories/grease/?526770080&0&cc5_150

Edit on my earlier post wanting narrower tyres for my daughter's mini-monsteur. Belt sander took down the side profile of the rear tyre, we have a fit.

Almost any lithium based or molybdenum type grease will do.
The loading on bike components is so low that you could probably get away with margarine.

Is this the correct grease

Close enough. If you want to geek out, there's a grease thread

Thanks! I always assumed it was cheap as the earings cost peanuts on ebay. I'll hit some metal workshops for quotes. The stuff that I'm after isn't that complex and could be made with hydraulic press.

That depends on which chain wear tool you have. I'm gonna guess its the Park tool. Of which there are at least 3. I find they give slightly different readings (although they probably shouldn't). Of the two static ones for example the long one seems to be a bit less generous.

Ed said:

New chain, cassette and possibly chainring.

In which case I'd continue riding it until it starts skipping or dies. As you pointed out (hippy) best to see how worn your chainring is. Either way its got to this stage. I'm sure you can get a few more hundred km without doing too much more damage.