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• #58076
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• #58077
When you have excluded the impossible, whatever remains, however unlikely, is the truth.
(To paraphrase)
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• #58078
Whats the best bottle cage for c£10?
Tacx Tao looks good, does it work?
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• #58080
Does anyone know where I can buy some arm rests similar to the ones in this picture:
I have a similar clip-on tribar system but seem to have lost my rests somewhere...
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• #58082
Sorry, yes I need the clamps too. That link doesn't want to work for me, may be an issue with my office computer..
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• #58083
Has to be worth putting in a bid for these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tri-bar-aero-time-trial-Deda-/251482118823
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• #58084
Yeah I was planning on it, I've messaged the seller about clamp size but he hasn't replied so I was just weighing up my other options.
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• #58085
Swerving a search cause it's late....
Black zen chain rings. Where's the cheapest place at the minute?
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• #58086
Knees aren't meant to creak are they
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• #58087
Knees aren't meant to creak are they
Depends how old you are.
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• #58088
<25
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• #58089
Id say over 25 and some creaks are expected, unless you battered the fuck out of them with some sport its pretty unusual. But no need to worry, its just wear and tear. Ironically, keeping active and bending your knee across the full range of motion (even if it is creaky as fuck) will help. The cartilage has no bloody supply, it is nourished by movement & pressure changes in the knee encouraging fluid filled with nutrients/oxygen to diffuse into cartilage. This keeps it alive and supple. Weight bearing also encourages thickening of cartilage in most heavily loaded spots, and articulating knee through clicky sections, helps to wear down any scar tissue or frayed cartilage.
But of course, your are just getting older and have to put up with shit wearing out. Just understand that easing off/worrying about arthritis wont necessarily help.
Main tip for protecting knees, if you run. Dont heel strike!
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• #58090
Perhaps seeing a GP would be more apt than saying some creak are expected.
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• #58091
I have a bike I rescued from a skip. It's battered but I <3 it and won't give up on it. The previous owner seems to have kept it submerged in their garden pond so all the components are pretty fucked, though the frame seems sound which is the only reason I am still pursuing this.
I want to remove the bottom bracket as it makes a hideous graunching sound. However, I can't get the drive side crank bolt off. I have:
- poured hammerite rust remover into the well of the crank around the bolt which has removed the surface rust
- sprayed it liberally on both sides with plus gas several times which has produced a few mm of movement and a soul-crushing headache
- Attempted to use an 18" breaker bar to obtain Moar Leverage which doesn't really do much as the crank on the opposite side laughs at my feeble attempts to stand on it to steady it while I try to move the bolt
The bolt remains stuck. What genius idea should I try next?
- poured hammerite rust remover into the well of the crank around the bolt which has removed the surface rust
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• #58092
angle grinder
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• #58093
A blowtorch - this will expand the bolt and the crank at different rates if the metals are different.
A bloody big hammer. Whack the crank bolt hard, with confidence, on the end to shock it free.
An impact wrench. pop into a tyre place or indie garage with the frame and ask if you they can help you out with theirs.
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• #58094
Yeah I was planning on it, I've messaged the seller about clamp size but he hasn't replied so I was just weighing up my other options.
What clamp size do you need?
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• #58095
not entirely sure, my bars are ultra skinny outside the clamp area. I think it's around 24mm but can shim
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• #58096
An impact wrench. pop into a tyre place or indie garage with the frame and ask if you they can help you out with theirs.
Good idea but most cranks don't have much space around the nut to get a standard socket in there. That's why you get specific 14mm crank sockets.
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• #58097
I was thinking about treating myself to some Ortlieb panniers since I just sold my old motorbike last night.
The bike they will be used on most has a front lowrider (I like this as it makes accessing camera etc a bit quicker and easier and also I have big feet so avoids heel clearance issues) but as the Ortliebs would/should likely be a 'pannier for life' I wonder if I should go for rear ones as the're not that much more than fronts but about twice the capacity.
Anyone used rear ortliebs on the front? Are they too big?
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• #58098
I have a bike I rescued from a skip. It's battered but I <3 it and won't give up on it. The previous owner seems to have kept it submerged in their garden pond so all the components are pretty fucked, though the frame seems sound which is the only reason I am still pursuing this.
I want to remove the bottom bracket as it makes a hideous graunching sound. However, I can't get the drive side crank bolt off. I have:
- poured hammerite rust remover into the well of the crank around the bolt which has removed the surface rust
- sprayed it liberally on both sides with plus gas several times which has produced a few mm of movement and a soul-crushing headache
- Attempted to use an 18" breaker bar to obtain Moar Leverage which doesn't really do much as the crank on the opposite side laughs at my feeble attempts to stand on it to steady it while I try to move the bolt
The bolt remains stuck. What genius idea should I try next?
Got any lengths of scaffolding pole lying around? Very handy stuff. If the pedal's off the crank you can slip the scaff pole over the crank to use as a cheater bar and give you more leverage.
- poured hammerite rust remover into the well of the crank around the bolt which has removed the surface rust
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• #58099
not entirely sure, my bars are ultra skinny outside the clamp area. I think it's around 24mm but can shim
23.8mm or 22.2mm?
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• #58100
Good idea but most cranks don't have much space around the nut to get a standard socket in there. That's why you get specific 14mm crank sockets.
This one does have enough space around it, luckily - am currently using a standard 14mm socket with no problems beyond the whole assembly being stuck fast.
I've tried hitting it with a variety of heavy objects but I'm a bit of a pansy so that's not really having much effect. The impact wrench or angle grinder seem to be the top two methods now - I'll probably destroy the paint all over the bike if I try a blowtorch :/