Any question answered...

Great cars.

Accelerated like a angel but braked like a devil.

alright Jezza

I wrote my mini off outside the Glen Helen Hotel at the end of TT week 1981. German motorcyclist with pillion head-on on my side of the road. Both of us in the front got bruised shins from the parcel shelf and the floor pan folded in half then when the car skided round my door flew open and I went down the road on my hands and knees. Cool painful story.

much left of the motorcyclists?

much left of them after you'd nicked them and they'd 'fallen' down the stairs to the cells?

We had to lift the Guzzi off his wife. He had gone over the roof but seemed okay. He got taken to court the same day and together with his goods and chattels was removed from the island having received a ban (IOM only). A year before I joined the filth so I couldn't fit him up.

Metro engine is easiest swap if you want a bit of extra power in a Mini, you end up with similar to a hot 1275.
Re classics for teenagers, anything small and not too powerful would be best, they're easier to handle, brake better and fit into smaller gaps. Obviously any classic in a crash will be considerably less safe than a modern car.
Old Fiat 500 would be an alternative to a mini, or Hillman Imp, there are many others in that sort of size bracket. Also original hot hatches are being considered classics now, Vauxhall Novas are fun.

Just get him a go cart.

Or an MG Midget, same thing really.

German motorcyclist with pillion head-on on my side of the road

When I was a boy, there was usually about one non-racer fatality a year, and it was nearly always a German, despite the signs

1 Attachment

Frame/ seatpost clamp bolt. Ally or ti?

Steel or Ti. Not Aluminium.

Anyone know how to solve this?
I've given it a good go with WD40, gave it a clean and tried some chain oil. It's only sticking in one point (pictured).
It's also a pretty new chain that has only seen about 200 miles.
The problem arose when I swapped to an eno crankset. I've got it set up as a 9 x 1. Tester informed me that it might be because the chainring is an exact 3/32" and thus slightly too large for a 9sp chain. Or at least I think that's what he meant.
Edscoble then said that it might take a little wearing in, that I can understand but I don't want to ride it when the chain drags back onto itself.
Not sure what to do, file down the offending tooth? New chain? Although I can't see how a new chain would help.

Well a new chain might help. If the bushings are damaged (als it rot of looks like it if you look at the pin that is almost out of the tooth there) it can be stuck. And don't use WD40 but use a good chain lube. In this case, get a new chain and see if it fixes the problem. It's only a few pounds and you can probably get it fixed with that.

Well a new chain might help. If the bushings are damaged (als it rot of looks like it if you look at the pin that is almost out of the tooth there) it can be stuck. And don't use WD40 but use a good chain lube. In this case, get a new chain and see if it fixes the problem. It's only a few pounds and you can probably get it fixed with that.

It's the photo, all pins are in fine and I don't know how the bushings would have got damaged as it's a new chain that worked on my old cranks.
WD40 was a last resort, and it hasn't worked. It was cleaned an re-lubed afterwards.

Is this correct?

From what I understand, 5/6/7/8/9 speed chains all have the same internal width, 3/32", and the only difference is the external width of the chain.
[courtesy of googlesearch]

If so then I would've thought that it wouldn't be a problem running a 9 speed chain on eno cranks.
It feels like I'm making some type of greenhorn error but I can't see what yet.

6-8 speed chain are slightly wider than 9/10 speed chain.

Run a 1x8 set-up instead of a 1x9.

Is it a case of the chain always sticking at the same link, or the ring failing to disengage at the same tooth?

I've had singlespeed mtb cogs ( the cheaper pressed ones ) that work fine with 7/8spd chains, but aren't at all happy with 9spd.

Your chainring looks to be suffering from something similar.

I've had the same problem on a higher powered moped. changing the chain solved it. Had the problem on a track bike, changing the chain solved it. Unless it's really the chain that's worn but that should be easy to see. Measure it, check for errors. Do the same with the chain. You see where it hooks on it? check if that part isn't damaged. Remove the chain and check if it moves normally when on that part.

6-8 speed chain are slightly wider than 9/10 speed chain.

Run a 1x8 set-up instead of a 1x9.

I can find plenty of people (online) that are running eno cranks in a 1 x 9 setup.
The whole thing runs fine except that point shown in the photo.

http://static.axminster.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/480x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/1/117737_xl.jpg

Is it a case of the chain always sticking at the same link, or the ring failing to disengage at the same tooth?

I've examined it closer and it looks like the inner plates on that one particular link are too tight and sticking on the the chainring's teeth.
I'm going to bend the plates apart.

Hooray it worked.
It just jammed a metal spike between the plates and bent them a little. No more sticking and it still shifts fine.
Thanks for everyone's help.

Is this correct?

From what I understand, 5/6/7/8/9 speed chains all have the same internal width.

No, as I said earlier, and Ed has just reiterated, the change in internal width happened at the transition from 8-speed to 9-speed

Thanks. I got confused when I read some stuff elsewhere that it turns out was wrong.

hi all
I need some advice: dolan pre cursa vs leader 725/721
eg speed weight comfort
(for street, not track)