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Unsure of the type in this bike, to be honest - bought it complete. Full City bikes have been reinstalling it for me - seen them twice in two days now, unfortunately. I know on my other bike I've got a Centaur on an English frame and I don't have this problem, so Campagnolo must make exclusively English threaded BBs now, right?
What I'm asking is - does it look like this one? I've got the proper tool if the answer's yes.
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70Nm tightening torque? They're not taking any chances, are they? BSC BBs with the threads the right way round hold perfectly well with 40Nm.
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^^Sorry EEI, no it doesn't. Looks like I'll be heading down the Locktite route, seems viable, thanks though
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I read that but its prette vague...lots of speculation etc. but if its not pee
where does it come from? -
^^Sorry EEI, no it doesn't. Looks like I'll be heading down the Locktite route, seems viable, thanks though
OK, like Tester noticed, these Italian bastards have to be done very tightly.
I used to use the no. 1 tool and after buying no.2 I found out, that I can tighten the cups much much more.1.
2.
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Yes Italian bottom brackets can unscrew themselves. You either have to torq the crap out of it (Reen method) or locktite it (my method)
Or cycle backwards for the second leg of your commute. works for me.
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Full City bikes have given it the full-bore tightening tonight - yesterday not so much and it worked loose again pretty quickly, but today it has held out coming home. I'm pleased just to establish this is an existing problem, not exclusive to my bike/parts, and that it can be solved
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I can still send email but not receive it
Maybe nobody has sent you a message
1 Attachment
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Sumo, what is the exact method for Locktite?
Not sumo, but in case the fix ^^ comes loose again I'll try;
Remove bb.
Clean all grease and oil off the threads you need to 'glue'. Not just a wipe with a rag, but brake/clutch cleaner and air-line job.
Apply stuff as sparingly as you dare. It comes in different strengths, & the weakest is your friend.
Do up.
Loctite is the work of the devil. You will need to warm the bb shell up to undo it, risking paint finish. Do it only on the offending cup. That way you will only have one fight on your hands not two come removal time.
Don't forget N-1. It leaves room for a winter commuter with a British thread...
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I also have a bottom bracket question.
I got an italian threaded bb 109mm spindle. Now, I just found out the chainring rubs the chainstay. so I need a wider spindle
I also just found out the shell width is 68mm, so italian thread, english shell width. That's wierd right?
As the lockring on the left cup isn't fixed, can I still get a 70mm shell width bb and just tighten it onto the 68mm shell?
BTW It's this bb: http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/BB/EV-BB-7700-1657B_v1_m56577569830610606.pdf
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As the lockring on the left cup isn't fixed, can I still get a 70mm shell width bb and just tighten it onto the 68mm shell?
Yes, I've done this before. Put a 2mm spacer between the fixed cup and the BB shell to move your chainline out to provide the required clearance.
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YouTube - LAKAI NICK JENSEN COMMERCIAL 2010
Where on earth is 1.05 in that video?
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Any question answered...
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@carson
Early to mid 1990s Record/Chorus/Athena made by Look and rebadged, although the Record ones apparently had Campag axles and bearings inserted into Look bodies.