Any question answered...

It is easy though. Techdocs are amazing

And curiously satisfying.

Which year / model are these Krysiums?

3 Attachments

Opinions guys..

I bought this frame and got a decent price quoted to replace the dropouts to track ends, total price would be £180.

This frames just come up in classifieds

http://www.lfgss.com/thread89957.html

Now, should i just take the J.A. Holland and sell on the nishiki? or stick with it..

Opinions guys..

I bought this frame and got a decent price quoted to replace the dropouts to track ends, total price would be £180.

This frames just come up in classifieds

http://www.lfgss.com/thread89957.html

Now, should i just take the J.A. Holland and sell on the nishiki? or stick with it..

Too much hassle IMO to replace the drop outs.

Cheers i think im decided!

Can anyone recomend some wheels to replace the knackered ones currently on my gfs late 70s Raleigh cameo? Dimensions are as follows: 120 mm spaced rear stays, forks are 110 mm spaced. Rims are the old 26 & 1 3/8 ". Would replacing these with modern 26" rims work? There is a lot of room on break calipers to play with break pad position if that is relevant.

I would like alluminium rims for improved weight and breaking over the original steel rims. Single speed would be fine, as would a hub gear. Frame originally took a 3 speed SA hub.

Any suggestions? Thanks.

From memory RS80s are very similar to DA wheels.

Your memory is playing tricks. RS80s have Ultegra grade hubs of conventional construction, nothing like the ones in DA wheels. The cones are threaded onto 9mm (f) and 10mm (r) axles just like nearly every other hub Shimano has ever made.

Can anyone recomend some wheels to replace the knackered ones currently on my gfs late 70s Raleigh cameo? Dimensions are as follows: 120 mm spaced rear stays, forks are 110 mm spaced. Rims are the old 26 & 1 3/8 ". Would replacing these with modern 26" rims work? There is a lot of room on break calipers to play with break pad position if that is relevant.

I would like alluminium rims for improved weight and breaking over the original steel rims. Single speed would be fine, as would a hub gear. Frame originally took a 3 speed SA hub.

Any suggestions? Thanks.

26 inch mountain bike wheels are a different size to 26 imperial sizes. Think that mountain bike is 559mm whilst 26 imperial is 570mm.

http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-sizing.html should help compare and contrast.

Anyone good at servicing cup and cone bearings in London?

My RS80's are feeling a little sluggish! Defo some beer money in it.... Pm me.

You got cone spanners? Can lend you some.

Can give you a hand and will even bring the grease. Its not hard, just need to be shown once. Is not hard.

Back with the questions...

Canti brakes this time Tektro 720s).

My frame only has one hole for the return spring. When set there is not enough tension to fully pull the arms back. There is a little, but not really enough.

What are my options? Bend the springs? If so which way - coiling them up I would assume?

Thoughts?

Also there is a gap in between the spring and the arm on the inside (if that makes sense) is this ok?

Cheers.

I've bent the springs with good results in the past. Have you screwed in the adjusters? That might be just enough

I have on one side and it hasn't really done anything.

The brakes are also right at the bottom of their limit. I'm half worried it took some sort of random centre pull brake.

I'll give bending it another try.

You want the springs to push more? If so you want to uncoil them, not coil them.

26 inch mountain bike wheels are a different size to 26 imperial sizes. Think that mountain bike is 559mm whilst 26 imperial is 570mm.

http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-sizing.html should help compare and contrast.

More than that, it's 590mm. That would mean a 15.5mm difference, can your calipers handle that range?
You can still get quality rims and tires in that size (Sun CR18/Panaracer Col de la Vie), would look best to keep the same size.

More than that, it's 590mm. That would mean a 15.5mm difference, can your calipers handle that range?
You can still get quality rims and tires in that size (Sun CR18/Panaracer Col de la Vie), would look best to keep the same size.

sjs list them

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-26-%28590%29-dept168_pg1/

You want the springs to push more? If so you want to uncoil them, not coil them.

Depends whether applying the brakes coils or uncoils them, assuming they're at a neutral state when not in use.

You want to uncoil them if they're slack. That's the way those and most v's and canti's work

Depends whether applying the brakes coils or uncoils them, assuming they're at a neutral state when not in use.

Did you look at the picture?

Which year / model are these Krysiums?

post the serial number (small barcode sticker on the rims).

Opinions guys..

I bought this frame and got a decent price quoted to replace the dropouts to track ends, total price would be £180.

This frames just come up in classifieds

Now, should i just take the J.A. Holland and sell on the nishiki? or stick with it..

Keep nishiki as is, the paint and chrome are in great condition and it really would be a shame to have to rechrome the ends which is frightfully expensive. Keep the nishiki to make a different kind of bike.

Get the aende to ride as your simple everyday fixed.

As the nishiki has mudguard eyelets it could make more of a utilitarian bike.

So I had an accident 10 days ago, and it has become clear that my front wheel is slightly out of round. It spins true, but seems to have developed a bulge that rubs the underside of the front brake in at least one spot (very small clearance since it's a short drop DA 7400 caliper on a track fork). I think I know the answer but does this mean I need my front hub to be rebuilt on a new rim? Or is there another fix? (the wheel is 32h HF Phil Wood hub laced 3x to Velocity Deep V rim). I tried to UTFS but didn't see an obvious answer. Thanks

Keep nishiki as is, the paint and chrome are in great condition and it really would be a shame to have to rechrome the ends which is frightfully expensive. Keep the nishiki to make a different kind of bike.

Get the aende to ride as your simple everyday fixed.

As the nishiki has mudguard eyelets it could make more of a utilitarian bike.

Just selling the nishiki, i have bob for my road/gears and it'll be a bit too big for me with drop bars and ergo levers i think

A workmate has just moved desk near to me.

He has brought his pot plant with him, not sure what it is.
Could it be making my hay fever worse?

The pot smoke could be irritating you.