Any question answered...

Get some of that matte clay stuff. That's the only stuff I use on my hair, I've never had to pay for it because friends and housemates have always left it lying around, but it works for exactly that. It's in a light blue metal tub.

I use the same stuff and have the opposite problem, as other people always steal mine.

Why do we not have Dairy Queen in the UK? So unfair.

Had a Peanut Buster Parfait™ from the one up the street just yesterday.
They use Ice Milk rather than Ice Cream, whatever difference that makes.
I prefer gelato from Eva's or Nucci's.

what do the masurements on a bottom bracket mean
for example here

68
BC 1.37 x 24 l <- 118 ->

i know the 24 bit means 24tpi i.e. english threading ( i hope i know what it means ) what do the other numbers mean ?

i tried fitting a bb over the weekend and the cranks were hitting the stays i need the BB to move out a bit

68mm shell width
118mm spindle length
BC = British threading

ah righty
spindle length is the bit i needed to know
thanks jadias

Why the fuck is Chris Akabusi on Radio 5 trying to tell the world how Andy Murray will win a grand slam?

and ...
are the Dura Ace 7800 and 7900 rear mechs direct pull mechanically or are they ratcheted and leveraged ?

or in other words can i put an old fashioned friction lever with a 78(9)00 rear mech or does it need a 7800 / 7900 brake shifter combo ?

these
http://bike.shimano.com/media/images/cycling/products/bikecomponents/SL/SL-7800_popup_v1_m56577569830551357.jpg

or these ?

http://www.fawkes-cycles.co.uk/images/st7800.jpg

Why the fuck is Chris Akabusi on Radio 5 trying to tell the world how Andy Murray will win a grand slam?

isn't he a motivational speaker these days ? i don't think he'd generate much business by saying murray will never win wimbledon / it's beyond his reach ! ?

are the Dura Ace 7800 and 7900 rear mechs direct pull mechanically or are they ratcheted and leveraged ?

The ratchet is in the lever. You can drive them with an old fashioned friction lever, but it might it might not pull enough cable to get all the way across a 9/10 speed cassette.

thanks mdcc ..... who needs a granny gear anyhoo

It's for my road bike, which was originally built as my fast bike with solid and dependable bits. But I've been doing longer rides now and then with some club roadies and feel that maybe its time to lighten up a few components. Having said that, it's a pretty traditional steel frame, so maybe not all that conducive to going on a diet. Basically I just thought that if there was a cheap wheel upgrade that would give me a little bit of an edge, I'd look into it... There's a chance I'll be doing Ventoux et al later this summer and will need all the help I can get!

Sparkes why not some china carbon? I was tempted to buy some for the weekend rides.

hi, I have a aluminum cannondale which I love but it has vertical dropouts, can these be replaced with horizontal ones? sorry if this hs been asked before. thanks, Imogen x

i was thinking the very same thing over the weekend have a cannondale project at home
there is always the eccentric bottom bracket option though eno do one so you can adjust the chain length

This chap can do it for you (with thanks to Eyebrows for the info): http://www.vernonbarkercycles.co.uk/other%20services.htm

Sparkes why not some china carbon? I was tempted to buy some for the weekend rides.

What, new frame? Or just wheels? Carbon deep section wouldn't suit the bike and I don't want to start a new road bike.

This chap can do it for you (with thanks to Eyebrows for the info): http://www.vernonbarkercycles.co.uk/other%20services.htm

My dad's bike :)

What, new frame? Or just wheels? Carbon deep section wouldn't suit the bike and I don't want to start a new road bike.

I meant just the wheels - would make a difference.

I don't know if it would look that bad tbh. Sometimes carbon on steel frames looks good.

What, new frame? Or just wheels? Carbon deep section wouldn't suit the bike and I don't want to start a new road bike.

If you're willing to switch to tubs, then some 20-24mm carbon rims.

They'll have that old school grey ano look but won't wear out. Team with some gumwalled tyres and you'll have a fetching new look for the summer.

EDIT: in all seriousness, the PX 20mm tubs are very good value. You'd probably want to sand off the decals. But if you built them with silver spokes they'd look very classic.

Want to stick with clinchers really, so I'm not stranded any time I p******e.

http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/WPPX52CCL/planet_x_52mm_carbon_clincher_wheelset

These without the decals could look nice.

Although they are only 100g under my current wheelset.

How about looking at a low spoke count pair of velocity a23's? If you laced them with some very lightweight hubs - remember Ed mentioned them a while ago you could have a great set of wheels.

I would like a rear rack for my Raleigh town bike, the one I have at the moment is a creaky, squeaky, wobbly piece of shit, and I think some of the threads are fucked which means every time I grease and bolt it it just petulantly spits the bolts back out and starts creaking again. Now I'm living where there are cobbles, I can't stand it any more.

It needs to be black or silver, sturdy as an ox, fitted only using a rear brake mount and mudguard eyelets, and not be too expensive. And preferably available in a shop in Berlin/German mail order site.

Any ideas?

Regarding the map with offline data, the SatNav 2 app has this. Really good too. Though I think the bike hub app has this too, and that calculates bike appropriate routes.

I bought some theatre tickets that never arrived, so I complained to Barclays. After several phone calls and a printed form I had submitted a claim to them. After several weeks I see a payment land in my account from them for the same amount - great, I thought, they've reimbursed me. Then another week later I got a letter saying that the money had been paid ahead of an investigation. So are they now going to look into it and potentially take away my £90 again, or can I safely use it to buy goods and services? I am confuse.

Will drilling this fork for a brake damage it's structural integrity?

Pictures - http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/6624/photo2gq.jpg
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/9753/photo1eo.jpg

Should the hole be started on the indentation on the back of the fork?