Any question answered...

I mean, it doesn't affect the aesthetics of the cabling much

but you can probably stop better than me.

Say a rock or something flicks up from gardener's mower and smashes my window. Should I expect them to pay or do I cough up for it myself?

decent bloke would offer to pay, fellow decent bloke would say lets go 50:50.

life is never perfect though.

I'm with Ed on this one.

Is it a double glazed panel?

^^ What caliper is it? I've taken Shimano and Tektro calipers apart in the past, SJS stock replacement bolts but it's often not worth the money.

They're the basic Miche ones, these ones. The main bolt really didn't want to come out, I could unscrew it but only with great effort, and when I tightened it back up it started shearing the threads. Argh.

I mean, it doesn't affect the aesthetics of the cabling much

no cantis to look at so can't comment :(

^the tidiest of my front/left cabled bikes.

cantis = centred cable. I'm non-aero, too. it's not what you'd call 'neat'...
I wasn't arguing, I just didn't get it! I do now...

What does everyone think of this torque wrench?

Torque Wrench Micrometer Style 3/8öSq Drive 2-24Nm/1.47-17.70lb.ft: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Good deal? I have too much crabon now, would like some confidence in the bolts I am tightening. I know the torque range isn't suitable for the cassette and cranks etc, just need one for everything else.

Cheers

I would say get a beam type; accurate enough, and easier to keep that way than click units.

I would say get a beam type; accurate enough, and easier to keep that way than click units.

Having used all types of torque wrenches over many years and also having been involved in the calibration of them +1 for the beam type

I have this one, it comes with a certificate of calibration, and feels very nicely made- I've not checked it against a known torque source, so have trusted the factory calibration:

[ame="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Norbar-TruTorque-certificate-calibration-England/dp/B002ASZHAS/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1335826037&sr=1-1"]Norbar TruTorque™ TT20 ¼" with certificate of calibration. Proudly made in England.: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools[/ame]

Well, proudly, all right then.

i think that should be more than sufficient

Why does my left crank keep coming loose?

It did it last week and I had to limp to the nearest bike shop to tighten it up. Then I set off out today and noticed it was coming loose again. How can the threads on a brand new BB/hardly used crankset be fucked already? Am I doing it wrong?

If it has fallen off then my suspicion would be that it's FUBAR.

If it's been tightened up to the correct torque and still falls off then it suggests that the taper is not within specifications- probably on the crank arm as it is alloy and the axle is steel (and therefore much harder).

sounds like it was not done up tight enough at some point

so the soft aluminium crank arm has deformed around the steel bb spindle

it is now probably fucked

This is the way my track cranks are going :(

Speaking of which- where the fuck are my cranks Planet-X?

I ordered them last week.

It hasn't fallen off but it's gone that way. I got them (Miche Primato cranks) barely used off Ebay just over a month ago, maybe it was some snide fucker selling them who knew he'd fucked them.

if they were not properly done up by yourself then they may have worked themselves loose...

Yeah but I'd rather blame someone else than accept I may have ruined my own cranks through incompetence.

Why does my left crank keep coming loose?

It did it last week and I had to limp to the nearest bike shop to tighten it up. Then I set off out today and noticed it was coming loose again. How can the threads on a brand new BB/hardly used crankset be fucked already? Am I doing it wrong?

Sometimes you get a new BB but don't get new crank bolts as well. Alloy threads on old bolts can be slightly worn.

I've got better results from getting a new set of (allen type) bolts with every new BB and then only installed them after I've tightened properly with the old school steel bolts (socket type). Seems to work OK.

More likely for the thread on the softer alloy bolt to be screwed that the one in the harder spindle.

ok

They're the basic Miche ones, these ones. The main bolt really didn't want to come out, I could unscrew it but only with great effort, and when I tightened it back up it started shearing the threads. Argh.

You did take the grub screw out first, didn't you? Unfortunately, even if you did, the grub screw distorts the threads in the centre bolt, so it fucks the soft female thread in the brake centre-arm as you take it out.

Can anyone recommend a decent quality but <£20 DC desk lamp.

^the tidiest of my front/left cabled bikes.

Sold! Conti style, it is...

I'm with Ed on this one.
Is it a double glazed panel?

Yeah, the outside one is smashed and the inside one slight chip.

I don't know who they are but it would've been nice to get a sorry or something. I know it was an accident so I don't mind paying but you know, a 'shit mate, sorry' goes a long way in my simple brain.

Our fucking agents never answer the phone so I can't speak to them about it anyway.