Any question answered...

No, do what is right. All bolted assemblies are designed to function correctly with a specific range of bolt tension, and this bolt tension is usually* achieved by a specific combination of tightening torque and lubrication. The assembly will only function correctly if the manufacturer provides the correct specification to the person doing the assembly, and the person doing the assembly accurately follows the specification using tools calibrated to the specified tolerance.

*in some designs (Rover K Series being an example, IIRC), bolt strain is used as a proxy for tension.

Coming from an engineering ilk, I usually follow what the manuals tell me and the usual thing is if steel is going in to aluminium usually its add anti sieze compound while odd other bolts I'll oil a thread such as end caps but the rest take great care that the threads are cleaned and dry. But make sure that the actual mating surface is clean and lube free.

I have been known to measure bolts to see if they have 'stretched' so know if there is need for replacement.

On a related note, did you know that the screws on a hard drive are torqued to very specific tolerances, and that the slightest variation in tightness will stop one from functioning? And these are just the bolts in the corners holding the outer chassis together.

What is this crankset ?

Buy my Klein and I'll include the massive easter egg I have on top of the kitchen cupboard

you're not actually selling it are you?

2 questions for metalworkers, plumbers, builders, construction-minded amongst you:

I have two sizes of squiggle that want to be translated into metal.

1. Is there something like copper plumbing pipe that can be bent/curved and connected fairly easily by hand but is less of a thief-magnet? weather resistance a bonus, am happy to paint the stuff though.

2. Is cutting and welding rebar on site a complete ball-ache? smaller squiggle could be easily made off-site in rebar but the ground it needs to sit above is a bit of an unknown quantity - considering driving in vertical rebar until it stops, would then need to be cut so the tops are level.

you're not actually selling it are you?

I am, sadly, 6'1 and a bit", my Klein requires a rider of 6'3" to fully exploit it's capabilities.

1. Is there something like copper plumbing pipe that can be bent/curved and connected fairly easily by hand but is less of a thief-magnet? weather resistance a bonus, am happy to paint the stuff though.
   
   

copper and most easily malleable metal tube materials have the resistance of butter when attacked by a cutting device, that's why solid bar or multifilament cables are favoured

I am, sadly, 6'1 and a bit", my Klein requires a rider of 6'3" to fully exploit it's capabilities.

. . . i'm only an inch taller....i wonder...

I am, sadly, 6'1 and a bit", my Klein requires a rider of 6'3" to fully exploit it's capabilities.

You're selling it because you did not like how it handle with a different stem length Neil.

most old cup and cone front hubs take ten 3/16" size bearings on each side.

Brilliant, thank you.
In other bearing questioning, I need some 6804 2RS for my Euro BB.
I ordered some but received 6804 4RS. The supplier told me he only stocked 6804 2RS and promptly sent me some more. They've just arrived and they're also 4RS.
I haven't tried to put them in the cups but my vernier tells me they're a couple of mm bigger. The internet tells me that it just means 'Rubber Seal' and googling 4RS brings up only options to buy 2RS.
Are they the same?

You're selling it because you did not like how it handle with a different stem length Neil.

Really? Or are you making assumptions based on information gleaned from a cursory look at the Internets?

. . . i'm only an inch taller....i wonder...

Have a go on it when you are next in town.

copper and most easily malleable metal tube materials have the resistance of butter when attacked by a cutting device, that's why solid bar or multifilament cables are favoured

not too worried about cutting-resistance, more scrap metal value... what other malleable metal tubes are there? not lead-based.

Spotter go on It's lovely.

I'm a midget like Dammit sadly.

If you had to guess, what size wheels would you say this old ladies Falcon is likely to take? Would really appreciate the help.

27"

650A

bilbi pls

Brilliant, thank you.
In other bearing questioning, I need some 6804 2RS for my Euro BB.
I ordered some but received 6804 4RS. The supplier told me he only stocked 6804 2RS and promptly sent me some more. They've just arrived and they're also 4RS.
I haven't tried to put them in the cups but my vernier tells me they're a couple of mm bigger. The internet tells me that it just means 'Rubber Seal' and googling 4RS brings up only options to buy 2RS.
Are they the same?

Here are the details http://www.bearing-king.co.uk/how-to-measure-a-bearing.php

Don't understand 4rs as I though that rs meant rubber seal on one side and 2rs is rubber seal on both sides.

Thanks Lynx.
Yes I measured the inside diameter of my 2RS and it's smaller than the 4RS.

Both.

umami first, lemon to clear.

luxury first.

^^ exactly that

Thanks Lynx.
Yes I measured the inside diameter of my 2RS and it's smaller than the 4RS.

what are the two inside diameters for the original and the one you just bought?

68042RS should be 20mm...

Why is there a shitload of black residues on my rim sidewall (and even everywhere on my wheels/bike when it rains)? Is that the rim (Aksium silver, some kind of oxidation) or the brake pads (Swiss Stop, black ones)?