Any question answered...

What can I use instead of bacon to give a smoky flavour for a veggie disk?

What's a disk?
Can you barbecue it?
Get some decent hardwood and fire it up.

Lube everything and torque the bolts to 40Nm (with a torque wrench - don't guess)

Chainline should be 42.5mm when it's all assembled properly. The other place where there is scope for a small amount of error is that the BB face might not be exactly 34mm from the seat tube centreline. For that matter, your track ends/dropouts might not be symmetrically disposed about the centreline plane of the frame, so getting the chainring exactly 42.5mm from the centre of the BB shell and the sprocket 42.5mm from the midpoint between the track ends still might not get the chain ring and sprocket centrelines precisely coplanar.

Right, next tool on the list will be a torque wrench.

Although i greased and tightened it and it's now 43mm so I'll settle with that for now :)

Tbh i've converted an old concorde frame with 126mm spacing so there's going to be some discrepancies with that setup

Torque wrench on the horizon for me too. How cheap is too cheap with those things? What's the happy medium for occasional use?

Torque wrench on the horizon for me too. How cheap is too cheap with those things? What's the happy medium for occasional use?

Doesn't matter how infrequent your use, if your torque wrench is a long way out you can break stuff. You need two, because there isn't one which can properly handle the ~5Nm required for bars and stems and also the ~40Nm for BB cups, cassette lock rings etc. If you shop around, you should be able to get both for about £150

:|

£150 is a lot of money, but then you think that thing that cost you £150 will last you 10yrs+. Like most of the tools I buy, expensive but serviceable.

Halfords ones are good and the pair will be less than a £100.

Cheaper if you know someone with a trade card.

Still don't like the lubing threads without due cause then using the torque wrench. Gives a false reading, the torque will be greater as the torque is calabrated for dry clean threads. (unless stated.

Surely the wrench is calibrated for the actual torque.

yeah i've recently beefed up my bike toolkit considerably, but that will be a big step.
Come on student loan!

Snottyotter Yes with the threads being clean and dry not lubed as there will be a reduction is surface tension on the thread.

Think its surface tension but keep thinking its water, sorry its late and my mind not working.

friction co-efficient

It's calibrated for whether they are dry, lubed or superglued, they just won't turn as far, no?

Still don't like the lubing threads then the torque wrench. Gives a false reading, the torque will be greater as the wrench is calabrated for dry clean threads.

No, the torque will be what the torque is. The bolt tension at a given torque varies according to the lubrication regime. If a bicycle component manufacturer recommends assembly without lubrication, give them a wide berth as they are idiots.

What spoke length for a sturmey archer AW 3 speed and westwood rims of 26 1 1/8.

What is the difference if the rim is a normal brake rim but 26 x 1 1/8

Not all rims of the same bead seat diameter have the same ERD

Sorry not thinking.

Am talking about the old steel style flat rims you get on old 3 speed bikes.

They still vary in ERD by more than the tolerance on spoke length.

It's calibrated for whether they are dry, lubed or superglued, they just won't turn as far, no?

The idea is that its to get the right tension

Have a look at this http://www.boltscience.com/pages/info.htm gives you a better information.

At the end of the day, do what ever floats your boat.

They still vary in ERD by more than the tolerance on spoke length.

Arse that is not what I wanted to hear. I hoped for an easy solution...

Did sturmey archer hubs vary in diameter? Looking to replace the hub and spokes on one wheel and don't have the old wheel to hand.

do what ever floats your boat.

No, do what is right. All bolted assemblies are designed to function correctly with a specific range of bolt tension, and this bolt tension is usually* achieved by a specific combination of tightening torque and lubrication. The assembly will only function correctly if the manufacturer provides the correct specification to the person doing the assembly, and the person doing the assembly accurately follows the specification using tools calibrated to the specified tolerance.

*in some designs (Rover K Series being an example, IIRC), bolt strain is used as a proxy for tension.

That's an "interesting" read. The wrenches themselves are just calibrated to the correct(ish) torque though, doesn't matter what they are tightening, that's for the manufacturer of the parts to think about ennit?

From the Which Groupset? thread but probably better over here first
Anyone have any experience with putting modern 10/11 speed gruppos on older steel frames with 126 rear spacing? I want to keep the frame if possible but then kit it out and money is not so much an issue as I get a very good discount. I'm open to suggestions. Is this a complete waste of time as I should just get a new bike?

Look up cold setting and decide if thats what you want to do.

Yeah I've got no problem with spreading my frame just wondering whether it's worth putting new parts on a relatively old steel frame