Any question answered...

Yas; I have a tube that is 615mm if that is any good? you are welcome to come round and pick it up.

Yes! when can i come? i can give it back to you on sunday as it will be framed then :)

tomorrow night or Saturday? I have a cold so prob won't be going out anywhere. do you have my number? i will PM you

I'm in no rush so will have a look for a brake but will probably end up giving that up and getting the drill out... Thanks a lot for your help...I appreciate it!!

Definitely drill.

Old brakes are shit. They *really *are.

Hardly any brakes have a long bolt and nuts. Drilling is the simplest option. It really isn't hard, and if you don't want to then a shop, bike or general diy can do it for you. Just make sure the fork is secure when you do it.

The only *possible *reason not to is if it is an especially rare and pristine bike who's value will be massively reduced by drilling the back of the fork.

Anyone know which shop in london has the biggest range of road shoes? I have no idea what I want and would like to try on as many pairs as possible. Cheers

I have an old (10 years old-ish) Carbon frame that has separated around the bottom bracket - the BB is made from some kind of alloy. It looks like whatever was bonding the two together has worn out, and the downtube and seattube are a good inch away from the BB with a smaller alloy piping visible in the gap. Is this fixable? And if it is, it is a terrible idea regardless?

Would a Blackberry work on giffgaff payg?

Anyone know which shop in london has the biggest range of road shoes? I have no idea what I want and would like to try on as many pairs as possible. Cheers

Cycle Surgery in Spitalfields had a decent range when I went to try out winter boots.

^^not yet I think, but soon. have a look at this
^condor was good for me

Thanks

thanks from me too

I have an old (10 years old-ish) Carbon frame that has separated around the bottom bracket - the BB is made from some kind of alloy. It looks like whatever was bonding the two together has worn out, and the downtube and seattube are a good inch away from the BB with a smaller alloy piping visible in the gap. Is this fixable? And if it is, it is a terrible idea regardless?

Find a carbon specialist and send them some photos. They'll normally let you know the score for free.

If they can't conclusively tell from photos it might cost a few quid to send the frame to them but from my prior investigations the cost is normally in the order of £25 or so (Obv not including P&P there and back).

Find a carbon specialist and send them some photos. They'll normally let you know the score for free.

If they can't conclusively tell from photos it might cost a few quid to send the frame to them but from my prior investigations the cost is normally in the order of £25 or so (Obv not including P&P there and back).

Thanks - I've contacted the first google result. I'll report back on their helpfulness if anyone is interested...

Sounds like classic Vitus/Alan/TVT/Allez bond separation, should be fairly straightforward to repair as long as it's just a sheared glue layer

I suspect I might be doing it wrong.

Changing handlebars:

These are both carbon, both Ritchey, and he thoughtfully provides a rough area where things (stem and shifters) clamp on.

However, I want my shifters to be here:

Which is considerably above where Mr Ritchey thinks they should go.

Will he hunt me down and kill me?

They're meant to be tilted more upwards and probably drops not parallel to the floor, if you know what I mean, like all the compacts/ergos.
Perhaps then the levers will be aligned with the drillings and the rough spots?

The bikes in a stand- so at a slight downward angle. If I put the shifters on the rough spots they'd be canted really far down, unusable for me.

I'll just have to risk the wrath of Ritchey.

Yeah, go on then.

However, I want my shifters to be here:

Which part of "Classic" did you not understand when you bought those bars? Old fashioned bars turn about 135° in the hook, modern ones (compact or full size round bend) turn nearly 180°

Well, I wanted my shifters as this image:

From here: http://ruedatropical.com/2009/03/road-drop-bar-geometry/

Which is where I've put them, but Ritchey seems to disagree

but you've put the bars like in the first picture, and you want the shifters like in the second?

Nah- position of the shifters is what I am talking about. Angle of bars is not important.

This is really not an issue, just thought it strange where Ritchey put the rough bit- here's the shifter with the band bang in the middle of the roughened section:

the drops should point at the brake bridge, angle them like that and see where the levers sit.

As EEI says I think the bars want tilting up and not parallel to the ground.

Currently also swapping bars