Any question answered...

Burn it. Mac aids.

no, I don't think so.

mine is a pc and he doesn't strike me as a mac user.

Is he an accountant? A council worker? Insurance salesman?

Uni loans...

I spent like 6 years at uni back home. Should I mention it while applying in the UK?
Can I get a student loan if I have some study under my belt (early 90s) or it's better to start anew?

I can either continue something similar (either film or any humanistic subject) to preserve the credits or start from scratch - maybe radiology, as I'm too old for medicine. If I start from scratch I can't count my previous study in anyway.

Anyone? Before I make all the translations and go to the notary...

None of the above...a sort of drug analyst/paralegal.

Does It have any bearing on my options for getting the files?

We need to know if he owns a mac or pc:-)
What Windows you run?

I used HFSExplorer or something. Google it. It's worth a try.

Bit of an odd one this- long and boring story to follow, skip to the end for the question if you don't like reading:

• I have two sets of brake pads, one for alloy (Swissstop green) and one for Carbon (Swissstop yellow)
  
• The alloy pads are in Swissstop shoes, and are dead easy to adjust
  
• The carbon pads are in the Sram Force shoes, and are a pain in the arse to adjust
  
• This is annoying
  
• I'd love to buy four Swissstop shoes and bin the Sram ones, but cannot find a source for shoes alone.
  
  

Question: recommend me some quality brake shoes which will be easy to adjust?

Why don't you just buy the pads plus shoes?

The pads are replacable right? So you just switch the oringinal pads into the new holders you just bought, and keep the new spare pads as spares until you wear through the current set.

Simples.

or do the sram ones only work in the sram holders?

Nah, I could do that, it's just a bit spendy, hence wanting the shoes alone.

Pads+shoes, £80 for both wheels on Wiggle

Well you're going to have to spend the money at some point. Maybe just buy the front set(?).

I guess it's the downside of carbon rims. A bit like buying a Ferrari, and then having to fill it up and pay for the service.... only not as expensive and slower.

Well, it's not a priority at the moment, the bike that those wheels fit has now been turned into the turbo-mule until next year.

Anyone know of a shop in London that has a wide stock of Ritchey handlebars?

I'd like to (preferably) try some WCS Evolutions on a bike before buying them.

I'd like to (preferably) try some WCS Evolutions on a bike before buying them** elsewhere for 25% less**

Probably best to find a shop you never want to visit again, you cheeky git.

I suspect that I am not alone in this, and if it were Chain Reaction/Evans or similar then they would price match Ribble would they not?

Whilst changing a few bits on my new geared bike, I discovered that from raising the seat post and (now obviously) over tightening it I have almost cut the thing in half, below the minimum insertion line, too.

Now, if I lower it say, 2 cm past the cut will it be safe or am I going to die when I head to Richmond later.

A quick response will be appreciated.

What size is the post? I have a spare 31.6 Boardman branded one that you could have for the effort of cycling up the hill to my house.

In terms of the existing post, what's the worst that could happen? To your genitals during a maximum attack effort around Richmond park with a splintered seatpost?

How close is the break to the min insert line and how long is the seatpost from min insert to end?

What size is the post? I have a spare 31.6 Boardman branded one that you could have for the effort of cycling up the hill to my house.

In terms of the existing post, what's the worst that could happen? To your genitals during a maximum attack effort around Richmond park with a splintered seatpost?

Cheers dude, but I think it's 27.2mm or even smaller (27.0mm?) as the seatpost from my 27.2mm seatpost from my leader seems a little bit too big.

I haven't got a girlfriend at the moment so I guess it doesn't matter whether my balls get sliced up by carbon.

How close is the break to the min insert line and how long is the seatpost from min insert to end?

The cut is about 5mm below the minimum insertion line and the min to max is 10cm. The previous owner was quite a bit shorter than me, so if I had the post that high anyway I guess I need a new post regardless.

Fucking sucks, because I really was looking forward to my first proper geared outing.

I'd say it was a bit risky if you are only going to have 25mm of seatpost in the tube before the crack but that's just me I guess Others might risk it but going round Richmond isn't exactly flat.

I would have thought it unlikely to be 27.0 these days, what is the model?

I'd put a small wager on it being 27.2.

I've got a couple of spare 27.2 seatposts. It could be 27.0 though. My Moser and Pro Winner were.

Interesting- my road bike and CX bike are both 31.6, the track bike is 27.2.

I thought 27 was an older steel frame standard.

Ok, here is the post...

How much post needs to be in the bike for it to be safe...

:s

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/507/aaadn.jpg

60mm

how much seatpost do you need showing?