Any question answered...

Who is Pawel Mostowiec?

ebay snipering. which site should i use?

justsnipe.com, free and works but can be beaten due to making bid 7 seconds early or something, some pay services are later bid times i think.

Goofbay. Free, bids super late and it's called Goofbay which reminds my of Goofy. He so funny!

Paying extra for fitting means not having to worry about it breaking.

^ This.

ebay snipering. which site should i use?

I use gixen.com

How's The Edge?

Sniping - I have once or twice in the past set up 2 snipes on the same item 1 with goofbay and 1 with gixen. Neither clash and if one should fail (it happens from time to time) the other will get it.

Am I a bad gf for not going to see Planet of the Apes?

I've been accused of being a terrible BF this past month, for refusing to watch that too.
Boooooooooooooooooooooooooo.

Any glazier can cut mirrors to size - I used one from yell.com I think, and they included fitting in the price.

They can also drill holes for fittings without damaging the silvering on the back.

Paying extra for fitting means not having to worry about it breaking.

That's a good point.

I'd be looking at 2X 1.6mX2.2M, I assume that's not going to be cheap, so having someone else responsible for not breaking it would be good.

I've been accused of being a terrible BF this past month, for refusing to watch that too.
Boooooooooooooooooooooooooo.

maybe we are missing something?

maybe we are missing something?

Sounds like you're missing one another; marriages have been built on less than a mutual rejection of a particular motion picture.

It also saves the frustration - however flat you think your walls are, they won't be flat enough.

IIRC, it's not as expensive as you might think, of you shop around a bit.

If I'm getting a chap/ess to do it then I could get them to cut apertures for the shower pipes also.

A plan is forming.

In other news- that range (the Piano of Cuisine) is now in.

Stand by for thrilling photographic evidence.

Behold!

mirrored splashback?

The top ones I stuck on the criteriums I had fitted on an lovely puch frame. I did fit them with short bit towards the forks so the wrong way round.

ah, okay that might work.

Anyone heard of radnal brake calipers?

nope.

Anyone know if I can bend 20mm galvanised steel electrical conduit in a 22m plumbing pipe bender (with maybe a different insert) or is that a recipe for disaster?

The conduit:

Also, if an electrical device is rated at 4.84 Kw, how would one calculate the correct amperage of fuse to use for said appliance?

Also, if an electrical device is rated at 4.84 Kw, how would one calculate the correct amperage of fuse to use for said appliance?

I make this 21.04 Amps, given:

Amps=Watts/Voltage

Anyone care to confirm?

If this is correct then my current 30A fused cooker circuit should be fine for the new cooker, which would be nice.

Anyone know if I can bend 20mm galvanised steel electrical conduit in a 22m plumbing pipe bender (with maybe a different insert) or is that a recipe for disaster?

The conduit:

That's looking like a no- foudn this GRC specific bender for £471 (ouch)

I make this 21.04 Amps, given:

Amps=Watts/Voltage

Anyone care to confirm?

If this is correct then my current 30A fused cooker circuit should be fine for the new cooker, which would be nice.

21A looks right to me. I would have thought a 20A fuse would get the job done as its unlikely you are going to be using all the hobs and oven on full whack in one go? But hey, what do I know.

That's for both ovens- the hobs are gas.

It is possible (albeit unlikely) that both ovens would be on full power, so best be on the safe side I think- thanks for checking my result.

I'm not an electrician or anything but what would happen if 29A started going though the wires, the fuse wouldn't trip but it might harm your appliances? Am I getting the wrong end of the stick here?

The appliance would have to draw that power (I believe), and with its maximum rated power being 4.84 I don't believe that it can draw beyond that.

Extremely happy for someone who knows this to chime in

Most ovens maintain temperature by switching their elements between full on and full off, so if you just switch both on from cold at the same time, they can easily draw the full power.

The purpose of fuses is primarily to protect the cable down-stream of them. Having fuses closely matched to their appliances to protect them is a nice extra, but really the cooker should have internal fuses to take care of that if it's a significant risk. As long as the connection from the fuse to the oven is rated over 30A, you should be fine. (I am not an electrician. This advice is worth what you paid for it.)

The connector box and cooker control unit are both rated at 45A, and the cable is twin core and earth of a fairly thick guage (6mm I believe, I would have to check that, I told the chap in the hardware shop what I needed).