Any question answered...

107mm Bottom Brackets, English thread. ISO taper.

Am I locked into buying Miche forever, if I'm too tight to buy Phil Wood?

Why not stalk to forum? I'd found two for £75-ish within weeks.

O/T - does anyone know of a decent butcher in south london(ish) that is open on a sunday.

The meat in brixton market smelled a bit jizzy. and ginger pig are closed. I want a roast!

it's monday today

Ugh, thanks. They're creepy and I don't like them!

O/T - does anyone know of a decent butcher in south london(ish) that is open on a sunday.

The meat in brixton market smelled a bit jizzy. and ginger pig are closed. I want a roast!

There's a great butcher on Lordship Lane- always has a queue out the door on the weekend, give it a google and see if it is open.

it's monday today

yea but it's a bank holiday monday aint it smartypants.

thanks dammit, il have a look see!

Let's hear it from mr Brown:
http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html

Brake cable housing is, normally, pretty shit, it benefits from being changed to the same type as gear housing

If you apply brake pressure to normal longitudinal SIS type outer covering, it can burst apart, resulting in death. Transfil (and maybe others) make longitudinal-wire brake outers with a kevlar or fibreglass over-braid to resist the bursting pressure, whereas typical gear outers only have a thin and weak PVC covering to do this, ample for the lower cable tension of gear shifting but not safe for braking.

Could have saved myself 2 minutes typing by reading the Sheldon link :-)

Let's hear it from mr Brown:
http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html

And I say let's wait for Ed.

If you apply brake pressure to normal longitudinal SIS type outer covering, it can burst apart, resulting in death. Transfil (and maybe others) make longitudinal-wire brake outers with a kevlar or fibreglass over-braid to resist the bursting pressure, whereas typical gear outers only have a thin and weak PVC covering to do this, ample for the lower cable tension of gear shifting but not safe for braking.

That makes sense, thanks for correcting my post, I'd hate to be responsible for DEATH.

yea but it's a bank holiday monday aint it smartypants.

thanks dammit, il have a look see!

They aren't open on Sundays, aren't open past 5:00 on most days, probably aren't open today, are fan-fucking-tastic, and not as expensive as you would think, if you don't buy whole chickens. William Rose is the name. There's another on Dulwich Grove or East Dulwich Road or whichever it is.

^^ DEATH right in the middle of the face too

Popped a pair of Maxxis Re Fuse on my cycle bike. Pumped them up to 120psi (max rating on the tyre) I stopped after a short ride and the front had come of the rim. There was a bulge from the tube pushing it off. What went wrong? Rubbish tube? My tyre thumbing skills?

Nope. That's happened to most of the Maxxis' I've put on - they take a while to get properly seated in the rim for some reason; especially right above the valve stem. Deflate, massage, inflate, massage, repeat until they seat.

Could be the tyre wasn't quite seated properly.

My tyre thumbing skills?

Probably this. Always make sure tyres are evenly seated all round on both sides before inflating to high pressure. If the bead is down in the well of the rim on one side, it can ride up over the hook on the other. Some tyres are a bugger to get seated evenly, but tyre lube helps - the bead, especially on fully rubber covered tyres, can grip on the rim between well and bead seat, preventing the bead from moving up into the correct position. Also depends on the rim shape, simple double wall rims (e.g. Open Pro) are rarely a problem as there is no bulge between well and seat, whereas triple hollow extrusions (e.g. Open Sport) do.

And I say let's wait for Ed.

Brooks brown brake outer vs Japanese hand hammered brake outer?

do you think using 700x20-28c innertubes with 23mm tyres is more likely to result in pinch punctures than using 700x18-23?

No, they are under less stress so should resist all kinds of puncture better, but the are still under tension from the inflation pressure so they aren't going to be bunched up in the tyre taking up space which would otherwise be part of your suspension travel.

What about 25-30c tubes in 23c tyres?

I'm putting you on the spot here MDMA_tester

^^^ Less likely - the tube is stretched less.

A tube too big would crease up inside and show in the outside making the outside not smooth. Bad wording but you might understand. We've put a 26" tube in a 20" wheel before. It got us home but it certainly wasn't comfortable.

a guy who plays on a 650c bike for polo uses 26" tubes if he gets a puncture. (until he buys a 650 one) seems to work fine

My experience say the opposite.

What about 25-30c tubes in 23c tyres?

I'm putting you on the spot here MDMA_tester

Pump it up until it holds its shape, see if the tube is bigger than the inside of the tyre. If it's wrinkled when you stuff it in the tyre, there is potential for a pinch flat which might not have happened with the right size tube, but only for a very small range of pot hole strikes.

If I buy fatter inner fitting it is like stuffing the guts on shot GI Joe in Vietnam back in. A hopeless mission.
Always end up with a snakebite.