Any question answered...

Edited my post with the exact same screenshot!

I’m about to put some strips in my roof rack so had been researching this.

This wasn't obvious from the Thule instructions! Thanks again and looking forward to peaceful bike carrying (after I've driven home from Wales whistling all the way).

Sounds amazing. Very envious.

Where did you install the dehumidifier in the end?

Will probably just have to put up with it for the drive back home from Wales!

I've heard wrapping the length of the exposed sections in rope/bungee helps reduce roof bar whistling. Never done it myself

I put it on a little shelf so the drain hose could feed into what had been the cistern overflow pipe.

I had to put a bead of silicon grease around the plug used to cap the toilet waste pipe, as for the first day or so there was a subtle funk escaping.

The whole project was super satisfying as it is using a redundant space, does a much better job than the old airing rack, has cleared our landing area.

My wife and I like to remove tolerations, those little niggles we experience on a day to day basis. They are often not essential things but when done they just make life better. This has made a chore less laborious and made a notable improvement.

What would be recommended for putting over a chain stay bridge eyelet, if I use a mudguard's screw I limit clearance, so looking for an alternative?

Assuming you're not fitting a mudguard. Nylon blanking bolts can have a low profile. Or a nylon grub screw.

I've been looking myself for the right term for something in-between the two. A bolt that is very slightly wider at the top but also extremely shallow so it sits flush with the top of the rivnut/eyelet but can't be screwed through completely like the grub screw.

Thanks, yes its sole purpose is to keep water out really.

Am I reading this right;

1. You want to stop water entering this hole,
   
2. you want it to have a flush fit, and
   
3. You want to be able to remove it?
   
   

If yes to all 3 then you want a nylon grub screw with lashings of blue threadlock.

Edited

I think a nylon bolt with a low profile head is easiest. Some of the issues involved in fitting a grub screw can be avoided. A grub screw will be the better option if clearance issues are extremely tight.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories/id-m5-frame-plugs-pack-of-20/
Other sizes are available on eBay…

issues involved in fitting a grub screw

What would those be?

Having to use/buy threadlocking agent.

Tooling spaces being smaller and easier to round than the larger head on a screw/bolt.

Being cackhanded and screwing so far that the bolt drops into the internal space of the frame.

Not applying enough threadlocker, or it deteriorating over time and falling into the frame

I bet there are more.

Being cackhanded and screwing so far that the bolt drops into the internal space of the frame

Drop some superglue into the frame through the hole. Allow the lost screw to find the glue and settle in it until it sets. I did this with the pinhead from a pop-rivet, albeit in a c/f frame. Never heard any more from it.

Cheers but, it's the actual selling portal and the reports that come out of it that I want to have a look at.

Yes, although after looking closely, turns out there's no thread, so might have to tape over it or any other suggestions welcome?

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Sugru, or the diy version using corn starch and silicone.

You can get these caps for hex heads

Find one that would fit tightly, clean the area, tiny dab of superglue on one side of the hole. Superglue is quite brittle so when you want to remove it, give it a little tap first.

Should be a very neat solution.

Thanks! Edit..the screw head is be too big for clearance, so will have to try sugru.

Fill the entire frame with thick grease and leave the hole open

Apologies if this is a silly question, but why do you think it needs to be closed?

Can't see why moisture would be trapped in there and not just evaporate.

Fair question, I'm not sure it needs it, but I'd seen others with a screw so thought that was the norm, like covering bottle cage bosses.

Can't see why moisture would be trapped in there and not just evaporate

Silt can hold the moisture in there long enough to cause problems.

Anyone know what brand brake blocks these are? They came with some Velo Orange calipers.

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https://www.fouriers-bike.com/en/BRAKE-SYSTEM/40432796.html ?