Any question answered...

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  • Looks pretty horrid. Is it seized in there?

    To start with I’d probably get two blocks of wood and hold the thing in the vice, get a tiny punch and see if I can tap it out? If it isn’t seized it should be quite easy to unwind

  • It was assembled with threadlock. I don’t think it’s seized, but then the screw sheared off, so perhaps?

    If it’s stuck enough for a head to shear off a screw, surely tapping it out won’t work. Also it’s hard to get into the recess.

  • True, just re read and saw the bit about threadlock, so it snapped while trying to take it out?

  • from a titanium spindle?

    If it's a steel screw, the Ti is where you got lucky. Dissolve it out with ferric chloride.
    If the screw is Ti too, you're going to have to take your chances with mechanical extraction, left handed drill bit seems to be the most consistently successful

  • Stainless screw in ti spindle. Thanks, I’ll take a look for that ferric stuff. Drop the spindle in a bath of ferric and the screw disolves?

    Is this definitely going to work? I’ll cancel my reordered spindles if so.

    Ah, yes. LH drill bit. Forgot about those.

  • Is this definitely going to work?

    We got an M6 tool steel tap out of Ti this way. Worth doing your own research on the effectiveness on stainless steel, I'm not sure whether ferric chloride will go through the passivation layer easily, so it might at least need some help, probably depending on which alloy.

  • In my direct experience road BB7’s are terrible with SRAM 10 speed levers

  • Thanks. I’ll give it a go.

  • Rounded off the bolt attaching my old arm rests to the base bar. I have tried a torx head, and gingerly cutting a straight edge into it but not enough purchase. It was only ever tightened to 3-4nm.

    What's the next step?


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  • Hold the arm wrest, twist the base bar?

    No good? Next try to do a better job of cutting a slot. Dremel with a disc will do it nicely.

    Screw removal pliers if you can wait.

  • I'd have a go with molegrips too.

  • Use this opportunity to buy neji-saurus

  • Thanks @Howard. I'll borrow a Dremel in the first instance - the cups just spin around but not enough to loosen.

  • Anyone got any use for a 100cm cardboard tube? Collect stoke Newington


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  • What glue was used?
    Is it Japanese paper?
    What's the lay up pattern?

  • Anyone got any use for a 100cm carboard tube?

    Thanks, but I don't have a car.

  • Has both end caps?

  • It does.

  • Anyone know when Cycleway 4 will be complete and open?
    Anyone know when they're going to open the Greenwich section which is closed despite it being completely finished and usable?

  • Looking for a portable bluetooth speaker for a children's party to put some music in a room that's I guess 7-10m x 15-20m.

    Have tried to find something to rent or borrow but getting short of options. Don't want to spend a fortune but don't want something that sounds like it's playing underwater through some tissue paper wrapped in tinfoil.

  • JBL ‘flip’ are pretty good! What sort of price range?

    You can always get two and link them together if you think 1 won’t fill the room.

  • agree with ^
    I have a Flip4 and a Charge3
    Charge is bigger and bass-ier, but they link together, handy for barbecues.
    I stick the charge outside and the Flip inside and you are never without the noise.

  • I like the Audio Pro T3. It seems loud enough on a building site but I've never tried it at a party. They are out of stock on their website at the moment though. Plenty around from other outlets.

    For linking/wifi/battery capabilities Libratone work well.

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Any question answered...

Posted by Avatar for carson @carson

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