Any question answered...

Does it mean I can use two different sizes of bolt? 10mm or 8mm?

No.

The 10mm is what you can see there with the text on, this is a retainer for the 8mm which you tighten/loosen through the 10mm hex gap. You could take the 10mm off and you should see an 8mm in there.
They are self-extracting, ie when it is on the bike, you don't touch the 10mm, but loosen off the 8mm until the crank is off the bike, because the 10mm cap is keeping the 8mm in the crank. Not sure if that ramble makes sense.

If you take off the 10mm cap, can you see an 8mm in there? If so then i would think you had what you needed, if not then that is what you need.

This could all be wrong though, i'm just going off my SRAM cranks

Never used this place but is it this?

https://www.deporvillage.net/sram-connecting-rod-extractor-screw-for-gxp-m15-m22-nx-black?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIycTXsLOT6wIVg7TtCh03JQCNEAQYAiABEgLc9PD_BwE

Looks to be standard GXP afaik - it's self extracting so 10mm is for the outer cap bit and 8mm is for the bolt which goes into the axle.

So basically this but from somewhere with it in stock: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chainsets/sram-crank-arm-bolt-m15-m26-alloy-selfextracting-gxp-black/

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/bleed-kit-prof-edition-sram-bleed-kit-set

or

https://epicbleedsolutions.com/collections/sram/products/sram-bleed-kit?gclid=Cj0KCQjwg8n5BRCdARIsALxKb94XZHA6fYUMTony2NBfYTBpSEAall4n51UxSC0m14OIqoGTSHPfotsaAlg0EALw_wcB

wiggle one has more fluid, need to cut and route cables rather than a bleed...

25 isn't even bulk for a consumer 🙂

It is when the consumer is me. ;)

Does anyone have a source for printing custom frame decals? Not sure how different the stock and stuff needs to be but from the feel they are usually quite thin and regular vinyl printing might not cut it.

Does anyone have a source for printing custom frame decals?

Not getting anywhere among all the decal chat on the frame builders' forum?

Cheers @lf, @zooeyzooey and @PhilDAS that's super helpful, much appreciated.

COViD PCR test - I need one.

Anywhere cheap or free I could get one in central London 96 hours prior to me (hopefully) flying on the 21st?

I'm running out of money and at my wits end. Bought another flight but a requirement is a PCR test that after looking online is £165.
Obviously I can't afford repeating that too often if my flight gets canned again..

Free:

https://www.gov.uk/get-coronavirus-test

Arrived pretty quick, you register the pack to say when you're taking the test then you drop them off at a Royal Mail "Priority" postbox the same day. The sample has to be analysed within 48h of being taken to be valid. I got the results by email and SMS.

They won't send you one without symptoms though, I think. I tried as I wanted one following a positive short term (IgM) antibody test.

The drive through test centres took me despite me not having symptoms but you do need a car....

Thanks!
Going to cross-post this in the COViD thread.

Lewisham has walk-through test centres too (probably other boroughs)

Citydoc charge £125, Newham have a walk-through centre

If a bearing says 608Z on it, what does that mean?

Or more to the point can any other bearing saying 608Z be substituted, say these:
https://www.google.com/amp/s/uk.rs-online.com/mobile/amp/p/ball-bearings/1262353/

Or better still these super cheap tumble dryer ones:
https://www.buyandrepair.uk/bearing-608-2z-for-tumble-dryer-motors/?gclid=CjwKCAjwps75BRAcEiwAEiACMTdI4H4hsIafawsVZoRcIzDzYcMKTV3v4_V-_nkKtaHNOYruB51zvxoCXvoQAvD_BwE

?

Cheers.

608
8mm ID
22mm OD
7mm Wide.
Z means shields not seals.

With those dimensions I'm also seeing 6082, so...?

The usual sources are https://simplybearings.co.uk/ and http://www.wychbearings.co.uk/

608 is the code for a specific dimension

Prefix and suffix denote variations. The suffix usually contains the seal code - z means one side metal shielded. 2z is both sides metal shielded.

You could swap out for any 608 unless the application requires a specific seal / shield or construction type.

If I have a fast tyre and a slow tyre, which should go on the front wheel - assuming I'm seeking maximum performance? By fast I mean, low weight, low rolling resistance.

Rear tyre typically is more heavily loaded than the front and loss of grip at the rear is easier to handle than at the front, so grippy front fast rear.

The other fast tyre you're going to buy anyway.

@Howard and @Emyr - awesome!

Answered my question and taught me how to fish.

Powerpoint slides in multiple languages. (15)
How.

PPT slide is then spat out as PDF.
Is it better to have:
15 individual ppt presentations to output 15 individual pdfs
or
1 presentation with different ranges to output 15 individual pdfs
?

Working on the assumption that other people are going to be producing the PDFs, I'd go for 15 different presentations, as the potential for others to cock up the ranges on outputting is high.

These presentations are all linked to an excel to get the numbers from.

I want to do some light touring, and want to use my Canondale Synapse (Carbon, 105 from 2016), if possible. I'm thinking one of the big sticky-outy bags under the saddle and maybe adding another bag somewhere else.

Do I need to worry about weight limits etc.? How do I work out the limits? (I'm 75Kg, if that matters).