Anyone have experience servicing a Goldtec hub axle, bearings, etc?

I'm hoping to swap my 135 axle with singspeed and neither of us know how to disassemble the hub!

Would rather do it myself than take it to a shop

Just managed to do it. It took screwing the allen bolts in and lightly tapping with a hammer. Axle comes out with the bearing cassette on the other side.
Stodd I can do this for you when we meet, it has to be done extremely carefully so you don't strip the threads on the axle or bolts.

Exploded diagram of Goldtec track hub for future searching reference:

Congrats! I'll give it a go as it will save me bringing the whole wheel, otherwise I'll leave it in your capable hands.

Do you want photos? I'll get my brother to send some over if you do...otherwise should be a straight swap!

Cheers mate

Just realised yours is silver...mine's black. Hope that's not an issue. The end spacers will not match the rest of the hub if that's alright with you?

Just managed to do it. It took screwing the allen bolts in and lightly tapping with a hammer. Axle comes out with the bearing cassette on the other side.
Stodd I can do this for you when we meet, it has to be done extremely carefully so you don't strip the threads on the axle or bolts.

If you pull the end cap/spacer off first, you can tap the axle out directly without having the bolt in place, which saves stressing the threads. Depending on how hard you hit it to get the bearings out, you might want to consider replacing the bearings while you're at it. Make sure you press the bearings back into the shell by pushing the outer race, as that's the one which is the interference fit.

Bearings are turning smoothly still, I did think about that. Are they costly to replace?

Just realised yours is silver...mine's black. Hope that's not an issue. The end spacers will not match the rest of the hub if that's alright with you?

Not a problem mate. I'm more concerned about having a hub that works nicely :)

Are they costly to replace?

No, so cheap that you pretty much might as well do it anyway. Look at the size marked on the seal, I think they are 6001, which you can get for about £10/pr for SKF bearings from http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p6183/SKF+60012RSH+Sealed+Deep+Groove+Ball+Bearing+12x28x8mm/product_info.html, obviously get two pairs and share the postage between the two hubs that you're doing the transplant operations on.

If you buy the bearings recommended you can regrease them easily, I usually do this from new and pack them so there is little room for anything to get in, they last for a long while like that, the factory greasing isn't especially generous, and I don't think the grease is all that good.
Mine have done five years now on my winter bike!

the factory greasing isn't especially generous, and I don't think the grease is all that good.

It's designed (both the fill and type) for high speed machinery, you're right that a different regime may be more appropriate for a bicycle wheel which never exceeds 500rpm, as against the typical 18000rpm speed limit of grease lubricated 6001 bearings.

Chainbreaker will help you with the disassembly part. When I spoke to him past night he was claiming to be something of an expert on the matter.

Chainbreaker has two topics of chosen specialisation?

Looks like he can now enter mastermind.

First round falling off, next round bearing installation.

No, so cheap that you pretty much might as well do it anyway. Look at the size marked on the seal, I think they are 6001, which you can get for about £10/pr for SKF bearings from http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p6183/SKF+60012RSH+Sealed+Deep+Groove+Ball+Bearing+12x28x8mm/product_info.html, obviously get two pairs and share the postage between the two hubs that you're doing the transplant operations on.

Reckon these will be of similar quality? Only £1.50 each + £1.95 shipping.

http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/sp-64-12560-122458-bearing%3a-6001-2rs-c3%3a-fag.asp

If you have time to comparison shop for items costing under £5, you have time to do your own background reading, starting at
http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home and
http://www.fag.de/content.fag.de/en/index.jsp

Haha, it was only one search!

Pretty easy to swap in the end. I read on here the bearings are easier to replace if you put them in the freezer before hand which seemed to work well enough. Still a fair bit of banging with a mallet to get everything in again.

Cheers mate hope it goes well your end too.

No problem, helped me out too. Thanks for the inner tube to get me home!

Chainbreaker will help you with the disassembly part. When I spoke to him past night he was claiming to be something of an expert on the matter.

Chainbreaker has two topics of chosen specialisation?

Looks like he can now enter mastermind.

First round falling off, next round bearing installation.

What the fuck are you guys on about??

Weirdos:-)

I like this thread tho. I've damaged my axle (well the lbs damaged it) and it needs replacing. Can you tell me where I can get spare goldtec parts?

Can you tell me where I can get spare goldtec parts?

What size? I have a spare 126mm axle

No idea right now... The bike is sleeping while i is working... Ill find out when i get home. Problem is, it looks like its a weird looking axle end that ive worn round.

Just because I've been looking at this thread to inform myself. I ordered the skf bearings mentionned here, in 8mm and realised that they are identical to the original ones.
Took 1 day to deliver, cheap as chips, few hammer knocks either sides and the bearings were changed in no time.
If anyone has 48h rear goldtec hubs, I need one. cheers.

does anyone have any idea whether the normal goldtec bolts will fit the hollow axle of a goldtec road hub?

i'm wanting bolts rather than QR on my front wheel.. the axle is hollow and looks threaded internally. Looks fairly small though and I don't have a goldtec track hub to compare.

take a bolt from somewhere else, and try it

Hi all, just replaced wheels on Pearsons Touche, with Goldtec hubs and DT swiss rims,the hub is for fixed both sides, but previous post suggest it's OK to use a freewheel, the 120mm spacing is correct, but with a 16 or 18 tooth freewheel fitted, when push hard uphill there was a light metallic jangle, i thought it may be the new Dicta F/wheel (normally very dry inside) but it was the rear stay twisting slightly and i ended up with a groove in the bottom of the seat stay !!! would a 12mm threaded axle and 2mm washers be a easy fix, if i could find a 12mm axle, or is there a better way ? i would file the axle flat in line with the dropouts, (only 1mm each side)
PS 18 tooth fixed also rubs when pushed
Dave
SORTED.. , new bearings, new axle, X2 3mm spacers....1 hour in garage depending on post, should be fixed by WED's

I've just got hold of a 126mm axle for my Goldtec rear hub and had a look at removing the 120mm one that's currently in place. Any tips on how you do this? it didn't seem to want to budge and I don't want to damage it with a hammer...
Cheers
Simon