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• #40177
what's the logic of doing it that way around? rather than cutting the slots in the back?
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• #40178
Depends which way the curve goes
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• #40179
:) I meant why cut the slots in the side that opens up rather than the side that closes up - the latter would have less stuff to fill (although harder to get the filler in there) and wondering whether the 'nose' of the profile being continuous might make it easier to fill.
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• #40180
Dunno, having never done this before I'll have to see if it's a PITA to fill. My carpenter wasn't keen to do the cutting work but my decorator is very happy with pointers so I'll ask him for tips tomorrow.
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• #40181
Anyone have experience treating dry rot themselves?
Joists seem ok or are being replaced due to woodworm. Signs of rot is mainly on the earth under the floor and on masonry.
After fitting air bricks and such, plan is to suit up and dig out any signs of it on the earth, scrub bricks and dispose of anything that comes off and then finally spray with some sort of fungicide/rot killing product.
Probably going to have to treat underfloor in the rear room first, then cellar (under front room) a month or two later. Not ideal, but hoping it won't cause too many problems that way.
Bit concerned I'm underestimating the "simplicity" of this and it's going to end up taking ages and completely ruin me. There's a bunch of other stuff that will need doing when new joists go in to level the floor and such too, plus there wiring's just loose under the floor in the back so that'll need tidying up. Plan is to insulate after sorting rot and such.
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• #40182
thought we'd paid the final bit of work before shifting towards 2 weeks off from house-work. thought wrong. pipe decided to go a bit porous for bants at 11pm last night.
of the 17 emergency plumbers I called the only one who answered first time was on his holidays. the rest didn't fancy dealing with it. resorted to Pimlico and have to say they fixed the fun quickly, cleanly, at the time they said, and talked me through some thermostat upgrades... all for an arm and a leg, but they did deliver. baby is having bath, and not currently crying.
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• #40183
I'd be pretty happy with that. Will take longer to paint them :)
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• #40184
Toupret do some wood filler you'd be surprise to learn. You can buy it ready mixed in a tub. If you use 2 part/bondo type it is very hard to sand. I would fill the slots with something soft and rely on painting it well to give it some strength. Difficult choice though.
Maybe cut a template to apply the filler so you get close to the shape you want first go.
Cutting the slots the other way round when you want to save the face of a board for decorating is more normal, it's 6 of one and half a dozen of the other in this case because the piece will be full of slots on the finished face either way. Might have been easier to have the 'nose' complete though.
Of course you should have built a steamer in the back garden and bent the piece of wood to fit.
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• #40185
I did see the steaming option online yesterday......I think cutting a template out sounds like a good plan.
Let's see if Screwfix have the toupret filler in stock.....
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• #40187
Bathroom flooring - what are good options? Floorboards are knackered anyway it'll be getting a new sub-floor whatever.
I remember someone here saying about one of the LVT options getting stained by piss eventually, but can't find the post now.
I'm guessing engineered wood and laminate are both terrible ideas. Cork looks cool but not sure it would go with the existing fittings.
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• #40188
Would the angles you have to be more precise to cut on the inside to get the right curve? Or am I overthinking?
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• #40189
Think the aim is to give it more flex than needed and then use the wall as a form
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• #40190
Why not tiles with underfloor heating seeing as your going to build the floor level back up ?
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• #40191
Don't think so. The cuts are the width taken out by the saw, no angling. So they need to be frequent enough that the dado isn't trying to bend more than that, but you wouldn't want it to anyway to get a smooth curve.
I can see it's easier to cut towards the flat back then the curved nose though. -
• #40192
.I think cutting a template out sounds like a good plan.
Use a piece of the dado to take a mould with a big blob of polymorph or body filler. Use that to scrub the filler into the cuts
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• #40193
That sounds expensive, and a headache. The current plan is to take up the knackered boards, replace the 10mm rad pipes with 15mm and put back a floor roughly the same thickness so I don't have to feck about moving sinks up by 20mm etc.
The shower is currently tiled, so I think the floor needs to be different enough to make it work with them.
Anyone got experience of vinyl click flooring in bathrooms?
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• #40194
Deffo trying this!
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• #40195
we gave our estate agent notice last week, do we have a say in when the listings get taken off the portals within our notice period or can they keep them up until the last day if they wish?
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• #40196
Ahh fair enough - be interested to see the other suggestions. Our bathroom
Is next to do. -
• #40197
I would be explicit about this. I found it annoying/confusing when I kept seeing multiple listings for the same place at different prices. Made it overly obvious when somewhere had gone up or down in price.
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• #40198
I am - my mother now lives in Brassington and I lived there for a few years, many years ago.
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• #40199
yeah, what I dont understand is whether I can tell them to take it down now, or whether they have a right to keep it up until their contract ends
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• #40200
They can only say no. They might want to keep it up for traffic but you never know.
Going to get my carpenter to mitre the edges to the existing dado but pretty pleased with that.
Not sure what to fill it with, possibly wood filler, but I know that dries pretty quickly
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