Guitar Nerds Anonymous

Ah I'm not too bothered. I always assumed a 45 year old amp bought off a private seller was likely to need some attention. Especially one that appears to be near original. I'll get it singing before long.

Could have done without the expense of new valves between christmas and payday though.

Have the filter caps already been done mate? Worth doing for sure as they make a right mess if they go and they're really only supposed to last 15yrs or so. Won't cost much, even with a good brand like F&T.

Yeah, I hear that too. Haven't checked to be honest. I'll have a look tonight if I can get the kids in bed.

Definitely worth it - I think they should be in a little dog box on your amp, separate from the rest of the board. Be very careful, they can have BIG voltage stored on them.

Yeah I think they’re under the little cover under the chassis. I know to drain them before touching. Might give it a go myself... I’m getting more confidence with a soldering iron these days.

What’s a good book on tube amp repair?

Good website here - I really fancy building one!

https://robrobinette.com/Amp_Stuff.htm

Me too man! Tweed Deluxe kit I think.

Same! I really like the deluxe reverb sound more but that's a bit too much soldering for me....

These seem excellent value:

http://boothillamps.com/5E3_Kits.html

Been watching videos and got the fear. Think a recap is beyond my ability. Can't find anyone local that doesn't look well dodgy tho.

Def been recapped.

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Top side looks tidy too

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Do these valves looked cooked to you? Is that silver spot on each damage?

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Yay - they're all new, decent ones too.

I don't think you can tell much about valves by looking at them but I'm definitely no expert!

Nope.

“Those unfamiliar with sealed vacuum devices, such as vacuum tubes/thermionic valves, high pressure sodium lamps or some types of metal-halide lamps, are often mistaken into thinking the flash getter deposit is caused as a result of the failure of the device. Note that contemporary high intensity discharge lamps tend to use non-evaporable getters rather than flash getters.

Those familiar with such devices can often make qualitative assessments as to the hardness or quality of the vacuum within by the appearance of the flash getter deposit, a shiny deposit indicating a good vacuum. As the getter is used, the deposit often becomes thin and translucent particularly at the edges. It can take on a brownish-red semi translucent appearance and this indicates poor seals or extensive use of the device at elevated temperatures. A white deposit, usually of barium oxide indicates total failure of the seal on the vacuum system. as depicted in the fluorescent display module depicted above.”

Flashed getter. Apparently...

Any Les Paul checks/buying advice that I need to be aware of when checking one out? Quite a good price on one at work (I think). I popped into a guitar shop over the weekend and spent a while with the salesman and the main takeaway I got was make sure the pickups are original. Cheers

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Straight neck, make sure the truss rod has some adjustment left in it... Don't think anyone will fuck around with a Studio too much...

Cracks by headstock to show of any repairs

Bit out of your way but I did an amp building course with this guy https://vyseamps.com/index.html and I thoroughly recommend it. He'll talk you through recaps and repairs and things if you want it.

That looks brilliant!

He's fantastic, proper old school STEM type. Reminded me of a kindly chemistry teacher from the 60s except he knew all about Baxandal EQs and Marshall amp voicings.

The Gibson Snap-o-Matic ™ headstock is a feature, not a fault.

It's a really odd one to persist with - it's got the great benefits of being both much weaker and more expensive in materials to make.

Unfortunately Gibson is hostage to the cork-sniffing purists on this matter. It was a crap design that should have been iterated out, but wasn’t, and now they’re stuck with it.

Ha. Is that the reason? The Les Paul Tone Police :)