Bike noise, creak, click, creaks, clicks, clicking, pinging sound - help

My hollow sram cassette on my zipps is noisy as fuck too. Lots of echo as it slots in to place. I like to think of it as 'positive gear changing'. Put a different cassette on the hub and see if the noise stays?

No personal experience of the hollow sram cassettes so can't comment on that.

Looks like the mech skips or jumps with the noise?

I'd definitely try a different cassette before changing the freehub out but the way the chain is going slack I think it'll be freehub bearing related.

Looking at Tune hubs they seem to use the hub shell to form part of the freewheel mechanism ie not like shimano where the freehub encapsulates the whole mechanism so I'd be double checking that the pawls are all ok, springs are working as they should and that you have any and all spacers, washers, seals etc installed as they should be.

I have had a mare with a clicking sound, checked bb 3 times tightened up the rear spokes, changed cassette chain, changed both rings all torqued up twice, still creaking. Greased every joined part and under the frame wheel points.

Stripped 105 rear gear, still there, framed cracked maybe, agh pants a little bit of play in the rear hanger. Tighten the wee little 4 mm bolts and it appears to of gone.

grrrrr

I have a soft clicking feeling (not even a noise) when i pedal slowly every couple of rotations. Feels like a bearing issue. Seems like potential culprits are BB, or rear hub.

I took the bike to bits and investigated but nothing seemed a miss. I don't know how to unassemble a hub or a BB and so can't quite work it out.

Firstly any tips on working out whether its the hub or the BB?

And, can a miche primato track hub be serviced/re greased?

Thanks

Hey
For the last couple of weeks I get a noise that sounds like a stone hitting the frame/metal from the front of my bike when I come down from one of the wider speed bumps a bit too hard. First I thought it is stones coming out of the thread and hitting the frame but it I can never see stones in the thread when I check the tires. Could this be the spokes? Is it an issue?

Headset?

Gear or brake cable otters hitting the frame? Had a similar noise turning my handlebars once, took ages to work out it was the outer housings hitting the headtube

Damn cable otters.

New bike build (steel track frame) with really annoying noise from drivetrain.

Details: DA 7710 cranks with 50t DA chainring and at the back a surly 18t cog both 3/32. Chain is a KMC 3/32 specific chain.

The noise is like the rattling of metal mudguards when pedalling, more so under load. A high pitch vibration. And the noise does appear to be cyclic. I've made sure the chain is tensioned with just a little slack - everything moves freely. I do notice that when turning the cranks the chain tension does vary, indicating a less than round chainring. thing is, I figured DA should be fairly round.

Chainline appears (to the eye) to be straight. Possibly there is a millimetre of deviation.

Ideas?

Long story short, I've checked most things, re-fitted components, cleaned and then double checked again and it's still there.

Is the drivetrain all new?

Mostly. DA chainring has done circa 200 miles but brand new chain and rear cog - they now have about 50 miles working together, so yes, as new. It doesn't sound like the usual bedding in of a new drivetrain though. Also, the sound hasn't changed since the day one. I'll give it more miles and see. Actually raining now so a bit of grit and water should wear off the hard edges!

I have recently swapped out the front end of my commuter for a disc fork with a trp spyre. I have a shimano 180mm centerlock rotor.

Originally I had the stock trp pads in there but I was experiencing some severe juddering. It felt like the pads were slipping against the rotor when squeezing heavily through the lever.

I swapped out for some new shimano resin pads I had spare and the juddering issue went away.

However, some new noises have appeared:

• after braking when I hit a bump I can hear a click from the front
  
• once that first click has appeared, I can hear another click when I very gently apply the brake
  
  

I think both of these noises are due to pad movement? One thing to note is that the trp spyres come with a threaded bolt with a little clip on the end of it, while the shimano pads are secured with a split-pin.

Is it likely that this is just down to pad movement? I was thinking to just swap to a split-pin and see if that holds them better. Any need for concern (front and only brake)?

creaking handlebars. this a new noise. i am convinced they will snap catastrophically at the worst possible moment.

I have recently swapped out the front end of my commuter for a disc fork with a trp spyre. I have a shimano 180mm centerlock rotor.

180mm is pretty big, do you have the adaptor for this on the fork?

180mm is pretty big, do you have the adaptor for this on the fork?

Yes the adapter is the correct size. It's definitely the pads moving. They are the type with a single hole through them like this:

http://www.wigglestatic.com/product-media/5300002571/Shimano-Deore-M515-Pair-Of-Disc-Brake-Pads.jpg?w=1000&h=1000&a=7

..so they pivot at the split pin. Not massive annoyance, but one all the same. Nothing I can do about it really.

I have recently noticed a clicking noise while pedalling on my bike. It seems like it is coming from below me. It happens when I put power down and is in sync with my pedalling. The more power I put down the louder it gets. It is happening at several points of the rotation on the down stroke. Happens on both sides but I get more clicks on the right hand side down stroke.

It is definitely not the pedals. Checked that is wasn't the gear cables rubbing on the frame. Nothing is making contact with any other part which I can tell. I have made sure everything is tight. The only things left which I reckon it could be are the frame, crankset or bb (which is only a month old).

The frame is steel so I'm worried there might be a crack or something in the bb area? Nothing I can see though.

Anything else I should try before I consider taking the cranks and bb out and reinstalling?

I have exactly the same problem. I doesn't click when I'm in the saddle though.

Still haven't managed to resolve it, going to try a different crankset in the next couple of days. If that isn't it I'm going to see if crc will replace the bb. Final resort would be to take it to the LBS and see if they can work out what it is.
It is getting really irritating now...

Solid (but not audible) click on R/H crank/pedal/cleat at 12'o clock, each rotation.

Changed cleats incase it was worn, pedals brand new. Campagnolo ultratorque crank/BB and never had this problem before.

Doing my fucking tits in.

Yours Bewilderedly,

Pete Possilthwaite, Pickering

Solid (but not audible) click on R/H crank/pedal/cleat at 12'o clock, each rotation.

Changed cleats incase it was worn, pedals brand new. Campagnolo ultratorque crank/BB and never had this problem before.

Doing my fucking tits in.

Yours Bewilderedly,

Pete Possilthwaite, Pickering

Similar stuff on my week old GXP BB with SRAM Rival Chainset... I get a click when pushing, really annoying, expecially since I've changed the BB, Cleats, and regreased BB, Pedal threads and chainring bolts...

Doing my fucking tits in indeed...

Just had the same on mine, did all of the above, click still there. Did it all again but applied twice the amount of teflon grease to everything and it seems to have stopped it

That's the next step then! Thanks for the advice

I think it's a bearing that's not seated properly or something. OR SOMETHING! fffuuuu.

Nightmare click issue I had recently was eventually found to be the metal cleat plate on a SPD-SL 105 pedal coming loose and moving around after years of commuting use and I can't get any purchase on the tiny crosshead screws to tighten or loosen.

@Uber Pete

Never had a problem myself, but a clicking UT is a thing (all be it in a Rolls Royce "our prop shafts never break" kind of way).

The Rogue Mechanic has a couple of good pieces: here and here.