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• #1077
Fixed gear?
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• #1078
Oh yes. most definitely.
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• #1079
I assume you greased the threads of BB, pedals and chainring bolts?
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• #1080
Bump
Tip for those, like me, who have been experiencing loud crunchy chain noise when pushing hard: Check sprocket wear. It was so worn the chain was having a real hard time meshing and then leaving the sprocket...
New (Steel) sprocket and newish chain - Smooth Ride™
Give it a go.
~£10. Even if it doesn't work, you'll have a spare sprocket. -
• #1081
I assume you greased the threads of BB, pedals and chainring bolts?
V lightly, yes. Really only with the aim of preventing them seizing.
And chain and sprocket are reasonably new - not like this one I took off my Kona a while ago.
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• #1082
My bike is back with the mechanic for the third day of "stop that click", hopefully third time lucky.
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• #1083
^ knees
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• #1084
chainring bolts, a recent click causing discovery I made.
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• #1085
OK, chainring removed and cleaned to the point where it would have passed NHS tests for sterility of surgical equipment. Chainring bolts likewise. All lightly greased and done up nice and snug.
Also cleaned off the traces of paint on the outer face of the right side of the BB shell. Inspected the frame for any sign of cracks or imperfections in the paint that might indicate a hidden problem with the frame.
The bugger is still clicking and ticking.
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• #1086
OK, new chain now fitted, all chainring bolts and chainring spotlessly clean and refitted. Still bloody clicking in time with cadence. Next step - try other pedals (again).
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• #1087
Aaah. Blessed relief. The clicking has stopped!
Handy hint for anyone else: don't overlook the little bit of the outer face of the crank just round the pedal thread. Any contamination on that surface (and on the corresponding surface on your pedal spindle) is liable to torment you with clicky creaky sounds.
A good clean and a smear of grease seems to have sorted the problem. I now have a spare bottom bracket, a spare chain and spare chainring bolts. And the shiny new chain is a bit grumbly on the sprocket.
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• #1088
Since I changed chainring on my Pinarello pista (from 48 to 53) I start to have some click-crack noises when I push it really hard (only on the drive side tho). I thought was the gxp bb that needed a clean, but after I did, it didn't help... Chainring bolts are tightned... It might be the atac pedals or even worst the chain... The funny thing is, even after lubrificating the drivetrain, in sunny days the noise stays, but when wet/rainy it goes away... Wtf?
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• #1089
Highly likely is that the chainline may be a little off with a different chainring.
Secondly, are you sure it's a 1 1/8 and not a 3/32 chainring?
Thirdly - your chain might be worn and thus don't fit on your new chainring anymore, check this first.
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• #1090
Highly likely is that the chainline may be a little off with a different chainring.
Secondly, are you sure it's a 1 1/8 and not a 3/32 chainring?
Thirdly - your chain might be worn and thus don't fit on your new chainring anymore, check this first.
The chainring is a Zen, so 1 1/8, and the chain is a KMC K710 (1 1/8)... Both new... I hope these chains don't need to be replaced every 300 miles....
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• #1091
Forgot to mention I ride brakeless so it might be the amount of stress the chain needs to support when accelerating/slowing down with 85in gear.... I don't really know...
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• #1092
85GI is way too big for a town bike frankly.
Two more thing;
Is your chain correctly tensioned, as in not too tight to cause binding?
Is your chainline's correct?
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• #1093
The chain is currently tensioned, but was making noises even when I tried to leave it slightly loose. Chainline is perfect, max 1mm out...
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• #1094
Check the cog.
If you got new chain and chainring, cog might be suspected.
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• #1095
So a worn cog can make a chain sounds like that?
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• #1096
Likely, old cog will not fit on new chain when it have been worn.
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• #1097
What the shit is this noise:
What is this noise? - YouTube
Its only the combo of this rear wheel and this derailleur, other rear wheel, fine...
This rear on another bike, fine.
How the fuck does that make sense?Please!
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• #1098
It sounds like a Ping so I'd suggest spokes but derailleur is in wrong position to be catching them and wouldn't explain not happening on another bike.
The chain went slack at one point, was that coz you were changing gear? If not look at free hub, free hub bearings, pawls etc.
Again though, not much there that explain it being only on that bike.
What type of hub/bearings? If sealed are they loaded only by the closing of the skewer ie Hope? Could there be an issue with dropout thickness and axle length?
Have you checked to see if the dropouts are parallel?
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• #1099
Dropouts are parallel.
Tune hub.
SRAM single piece sprocket, with the two smallest floating. It doesn't seem to happen on the two smallest sprockets.
Chain slack seems to happen only with this set up, and wasn't due to a change in gear but just a slight backpedal.
Spokes are solid.
Thanks for the help, keep the ideas coming.
I'm beginning to think it might require a new free hub? -
• #1100
Looks like something to with your freehub judging by the way it caught the chain. Perhaps a different bike is slightly tighter/looser on the freehub?
Hmmm, I'm having one of those "where's that clicking coming from?" issues. It is in time with the turning of the cranks, happens regardless of whether I sit on the saddle or not, is more pronounced as I put power through the driveside crank than the non-driveside, is silent when I ease up on the pedals.
As it arrived within a week or two of having fitted new pedals, I was all ready to send them back and complain. But then I tested the pedals on my road bike, and that didn't creak, while the bike still creaks with the old pedals put back on it.
I've taken out the BB, cleaned the tapers and threads, fitted it snugly back in place. No improvement.
I took out all the chainring bolts, cleaned them and refitted them. No improvement.
I bought a new BB and fitted it. No improvement.
I might have another go at the chainring bolts: if I get some of those torx-fitting ones, I can be more confident of having them done up to the right degree than i can with the conventional ones - I have the tool to hold the back half of the bolt in place but it never grips as well as it should.
The other thing that occurred to me is that the paintwork on the frame comes over the outside edge of the BB shell, and there is some slight flaking. Do folks on here think it might be worth sanding off the paint back to the alloy, so there's nothing between the driveside flange of the BB and the alloy of the BB shell?