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• #8477
Thanks, but I'm having trouble picking from the endless amount of options.
Surely there are some favorites? Tester approved ones even?
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• #8478
Surely there are some favorites? Tester approved ones even?
Got less than £200? get a nice little Shimano one and trash it to smithereens.
Hell, just let that kid run over you again for shit and giggle.
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• #8479
Or get yourself some nice Mavic tubeless wheels for a bit more (as it included tyres and the easiest tubeless wheelset to set up, even without sealant and just a floor pump).
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• #8480
25mm won't fit my frame unfortunately, and not really interested in running tubeless.
Will probably go for something like your first option, thanks.
Hell, just let that kid run over you again for shit and giggle.
Am I missing some sort of in-joke here? 😅
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• #8481
Is this scuff terminal? I just got ridden into by a fuck wit school kid who rode off crying before I could find out who he was
^ This.
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• #8482
25mm won't fit my frame unfortunately, and not really interested in running tubeless.
pity, it's the only tubeless road wheelset I can recommend to customer who want to do it at home without turning into a sobbing white mess.
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• #8483
I’m the butt joke but I’m by a Portuguese pool with a beer and giving far fewer fucks about my front wheel than I did on Thursday
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• #8484
RS11 are 15mm internal...
CSB alert but we're about the same weight and I can only run 23c on my 90's Look. I originally had Dura Ace C24 on it, but I have borrowed my GF hand built wheels (32 spokes, Halo Devaura / Kinlin XR31 on Novatec) and was quite surprised by how good they were. While they are noticeably heavier when starting at the lights, they are very stiff and actually quite aero with a 23c tyre on, so keep up speed well. The extra internal width helps with comfort, and give the tyre a nice profile too.
tl;dr I'd speak to a wheelbuilder and get something on Kinlin XR31 rims if I were you. -
• #8485
The newish rs100 is a but more modern wide with 17c internal. Should be roughly similar priced.
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• #8486
RS11 are 15mm internal...
Better than the older 13mm internal, if you're running 23mm, that internal width is more than enough.
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• #8487
Tester approved ones even?
Cheap Shimano, Mavic Aksium. Apparently the low end Fulcrums are fine too, but I've never actually owned any. XR31T handbuild on either Shimano, DT350 or Novatec hubs according to personal prejudice will be a good option too.
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• #8488
Better than the older 13mm internal
Lapalissade of the day.
Anyway there's a lot to gain in going wider, all for a small weight penalty.
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• #8489
My insurance is paying out for the little twerp who wrote off my front Zipp 303 and various other items. I can replace the front wheel like-for-like but I'm wondering if now is the time to look for something newer. If I use the insurance money and sell the undamaged rear I might have about £1200 to play with.
I like the Zipp's stopping power in the wet, but don't do a huge amount of wet riding on my fancy whip so it's not a deal-breaker. They're great wheels so happy to stay put with them but wondering if there are any carbon clincher recommendations for that sort of price range that people have use and rate?
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• #8490
Wait for a triathlete to sell you some barely used Enve's on eBay for less than a grand.
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• #8491
Campagnolo Bora. Good braking, great hubs, solid build quality.
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• #8492
Good set of climbers wheels or overpriced and should just stick with aluminium version or even superstar.
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• #8493
You could build a 1300g alu wheelset for less than £1,400 I reckon. And you wouldn't have shit braking :)
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• #8494
Overpriced. Just seen pacenti does a Forza wheelset, 1400 or so gr, £350. And you can service the spokes and brake in the wet
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• #8495
You could get KinlinXR22T's built with Bitex hubs and Sapim lasers for about 1300gr for less than half the cost of those Hunts.
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• #8496
Need to get my winter wheels re-built, currently Archetype H Plus Son rims on Hope hubs. Keeping the hubs but will replace the rims as spokes keep breaking on the rear.
Should I just re-build the rear with another H Plus Son or is there a better all-round/winter rim that I should get a pair of to replace on both wheels? Kinlin XR22?
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• #8497
If you've been snapping spokes, if the existing wheels were reasonably well-built and given that you'll obviously be staying with the same number of spokes, you might want to go for a deeper and stiffer rim to distribute the loads between the spokes more evenly. As ever, the correct answer is probably the XR31T.
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• #8498
the correct answer is probably the XR31T.
The only time I've broken spokes on mine was when that women decided to insert her car into my rear triangle (not a euph, ok maybe a bit of a euph).
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• #8499
They'll probably do for me then if they sustain your usage ;D
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• #8500
Yep. I've went for the same model rim on the back and it did all my races this year with no issue. I've got another XR31 being built into a Powertap training wheel too. They're good.
Yes; don't spend a lot of money on metal wheels. The more expensive ones don't do anything the cheap ones don't do just as well. You're paying to have your wheels lighter, which makes almost no difference to performance but nearly always involves being weaker and less durable.