Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

Has this been resolved yet?

For everything except bicycles, yes. Given the low speed, low load, low power, low operator skill service conditions on a bicycle, inner tubes continue to run tubeless close and the forum arguments will continue. We reached this point at least 20 years ago in clinchers vs. tubular, and that argument shows no sign of going quiet because neither side has definitively won.

Nope.

neither side has definitively won

I have.

Nothing is ever resolved: it would appear that tubulars are lightest, clinchers roll best, tubeless roll marginally besterer and puncture least. Unless you are regularly racing on A roads in the wet or commuting most days on crap-strewn city streets the margins are too small to consider the outlay for new wheels. Unless you want them, because you can.

Anything as long as they are Conti's. Right?

TABR. I will not have a track pump.

Stop entering hobo races and do something with a support car/pit crew ;-)

You pay for it and I'll race it. RAAM is ~£20k

RAAM is ~£20k

wut?! and you are self sponsored?!

You spent all your TT world championship prize money already?

Hooray for inner tubes ! ! !

reported for trolling

That's why I'm doing TABR and not RAAM.

Midgets and blow for breakfast eats those dollars fast.

UltraBuyer®

What about a cut that you can't fix with poking something through a hole?

Then you have to get it to reinflate and stick to the rim with a hand pump.

Big hole= use two of the plugs.

You don't have to get it to stick to the rim as you never unstuck it (as you would have done to get a tube in).

My general experience with Stan's in Bontrager mtb tyres is that they lose pressure even slower than butyl tubes, but I don't know if that translates well to high pressures or different tyres. My sealant has also stayed liquid for well over a year, but I keep the mountain bike outside, so the cold probably helps there

May just be my particular tyres then that slowly lose pressure.

Cut -> rapid deflation -> loose tyre

Cue: patch/fill cut then trying to reseat and inflate tubeless.

No?

With a proper tubeless tyre on a proper tubeless rim you need to really crack it off the rim bed. You can lose all the pressure in the tyre without the seal around the bead breaking. Also once it's sealed the first time it's much easier to inflate in future.

^^Bead stays locked in place, in theory - I'll need others to chime in here as I've not experienced a catastrophic puncture (i.e. one that is noticeable) and can't therefore speak from personal experience of what happens.

But- going with what I understand, the beads on either side stay locked in, you punch the plug through the hole from the outside, reinflate.

Think car and/or motorcycle tyre rather than bike tyre.

EDIT what Sumo said.

I converted to tubeless this afternoon.

Lost-
23mm GP4000 II
Vitoria rim strip
Schwalbe ultralight tube 50mm valve

Replacement.-
23mm Schwalbe Pro One
Two layers of tape
Stans 44mm valve
30ml of sealant

20 grams lighter per wheel and only took 2 hours from the postie arriving to being finished. That's onto DT rims that are tubeless ready. Stans injector was a help compared to adding fluid directly into the MTB tyres a week ago.

@hippy

once seated bead stays in place

I know I am a complete Luddite, but out of curiosity does a good tubeless tyre plus the necessary sealant weigh more or less than a standard one of similar quality with a tube?

The biggest difference is the ride quality of the tubeless set-up which IMHO is the main advantage of it, on top of the usual advantage of reducing small puncture.

^^Bead stays locked in place, in theory.

It does, you can tell when you pumped up a normal tyres + tube on a tubeless rims that created an almighty crack sound as the tyres bead pop into the rims wall.

Even when fully deflated, you have to really push the bead off the wall to gain access, again creating a loud crack.

Actually thinking about it, you'd know it's a decent tubeless rims when it crack like that.

Got my kinesis v4 cross light wheels.

They are proper. Feel light. QR skewers are a bit poo, but apart from that v impressed.

Also. I put some inner tubes in there with @dubtap approved spesh Roubaix 30's. 👊🏼

How do the 30/32 size up?

I'd like to go as wide as possible come the summer and a 30mm would I think squeeze into my Columbus minimal. The 30/32 confuses me a bit.