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• #5177
You might end up paying the difference in import tax anyway, so Superstar or planet x etc would be better.
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• #5178
Superstar components come with Reynolds pads, and they very regularly do 10-20% off.
(Got 30% off Pave 28s at Christmas)
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• #5179
Superstar carbonz are previous years Reynolds rims
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• #5180
a) the general LFGSS consensus is 'don't bother with lightweight fancy QR skewers, they're more hassle than they're worth' right? Was gunna get some lifeline Ti ones but if someone can point me at a more reliable / better set around £30, have at it.
b) didn't someone mention a 10% off code for Superstar recently?
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• #5181
Buy them cheap from eBay, same thing. I'm currently using a set, not sure how good they are. Think I'm getting a bit more flex. And you have to tighten them every now and again.
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• #5182
I have found these to work well, and it means you have a zipp logo...
Otherwise, stick to shimano.
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• #5183
Just stick to the enclosed cam variety for an easy life, really
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• #5184
Shimano ftw. Fancy skewers look nice but don't actually work very well. They often click and creak after a while too - you will dismantle your entire bike before realising it's the bloody skewers.
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• #5185
Don't bother with cheap light skewers .. they are what they are. Either posh and light or just Shimano .. I use FFWD ones and they are great: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/fast-forward-ra1-alloychromoly-quick-release-set/ 90g
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• #5186
Sounds sweet. Will wait on another code. Missed the 10k facebook one sadly.
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• #5187
Front wheels don't really need much clamping force so on the front, cheapo WW skewers are fine.
(just in case weight is no.1 priority and you don't mind miss-matching skewers)
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• #5188
Enclosed cam or bolt thru, or GTFO
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• #5189
Sexh Campag enclosed cams, yo
120g.
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• #5190
The very worst thing is a plastic bearing between the cam face and the bit which presses on the dropout face. If you really must have weight weenie skewers, at least try to find some with a phosphor-bronze bearing (e.g. Token). If you're road racing and need quick wheel changes, use Shimano or Campag. If you're not racing and can tap the axles, bolt-on is lighter and cheaper than any weight weenie skewer and adds only a few seconds to your wheel change time.
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• #5192
Heavy and v pricy tho
Will just go for the Zipps, as they seem to be cheap, in stock and aero
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• #5193
If you want light and aero get some pinheads and saw off the extra threaded bit.
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• #5194
Skewers you tighten like a bolt are probably the worst of all possible worlds. You add torsion to tension, so they are easy to shear if you try to get them tight.
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• #5195
Yah - key and interface is designed to limit the torque you can put through it but if you go totally gorilla on it then it's going to snap.
Light, aero, foolproof, cheap, pick three
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• #5196
I'm not sure what I'm meant to do with it - use it with a bolt-thru hub? Adapt a standard hub?
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• #5197
Use it with a bolt thru hub in a QR frame or fork. Stiffness of bolt thru axle, convenience of QR.
Apparently. I'm not sure what to make of it.
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• #5198
You adapt a QR hub to use it. Still fits in a QR frame, but gives a bit more stiffness.
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• #5199
So I'd need 15mm>9mm reducer end-caps, then the 9mm/100mm bolt-thru-QR.
Might be worth looking at in order to be able to run the 190-hubbed wheel on the Time Machine.
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• #5200
I'm limited by a QR hub and personal incompetence, so probably just sticking to the easy options. Would love enclosed cam, but the campag ones are 'spensive and I can't find any Ultegra ones in stock.
Former, you can return it if there's something wrong.