Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

I'm getting a set of 2012 Mavics with 200miles on for £485... I think that's quite a good deal. I did look at the rs80's but having run regular Cosmic's on my other LOOK, I kinda wanted to go with them as they've been excellent. Ta tho.

No worries, and that's a good deal. I'm guessing the Mavics will be fine as long as you're not too heavy

This sounds like the wheels moving in the drop-out. Have you considered swapping to better skewers (shimano have the best design).

Difficult to imagine the wheel moving so much near the axle through flex alone. You can also space the rear cassette out up to 1mm. Which could help. Probably better to solve the problem, and not just the sympton though.

I'm pretty sure it is the wheel flexing. The cage is very close to the spokes in the top gear and not helped by being a short cage. It's also probably in part down to my crap climbing techniques rocking the frame from side to side. I shall pay more attention next time I ride the bike although it's currently in hybernation.

I've only had rubbing cage on really crap/weak wheels - and I'm a relatively big guy

I'm pretty sure it is the wheel flexing. The cage is very close to the spokes in the top gear and not helped by being a short cage. It's also probably in part down to my crap climbing techniques rocking the frame from side to side. I shall pay more attention next time I ride the bike although it's currently in hybernation.

Its just that (if I'm picturing this right), a 0.5mm movement near the cassette, would mean a 3 or 4mm movement at the rim. So you'd get horrible brake rub*. Yet if the wheel is simply being pulled up and down in the drop-out. You could get cage rub, without any side to side rim movement.

(I have cycled a couple km behind a guy with this much flex, on a mountain climb. You could see the brake caliper shuddering each pedal stroke. I was afterall behind him. So cant critisize too much)

wvm - what skewers are you using? Try tightening the fuck out of them and going up Swains or something and see if you still have the problem.

wvm - what skewers are you using? Try tightening the fuck out of them and going up Swains or something and see if you still have the problem.

Thats what I said. The cam design of shimano skewers is the best I know of, and could solve the problem instantly.

I have a hairs clearance to my cage. Because of the 11 speed cassette. Using bolt on skewers, to save weight and stiffen things. Means this is fine. If I ever qualify for the TdF, I may want consider something quicker to undo. But untill them these rock.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/J-L-Flylight-Ti-Titanium-QR-skewers-Bolt-On-Black-30-Grams-Excellent-Condition-/00/s/MTAyNFg3NjQ=/$(KGrHqJ,!qoE88ffTzPmBPTDztrJZQ~~60_58.JPG

I shall dig the bike out of it's winter retreat later and investigate what's going on more thoroughly. The skewers are, I think, the ones Mavic supplied with the wheels (bike, wheels, etc. were second hand).
All this aside though, the wheels do flex easier than any of my others.

Yes. Sort it out. The forum is annoyed.

Working from memory, as it's been a while since I rode this bike, it may only be one spoke that was clipping the cage. When I first got the bike one of the spokes had a twist in it. I straightened that up. I wonder if it's moved again or if there's another that needs attention.

Please standby for an update later....

The forum is full of shit, especially when it comes to problem diagnose by personal experience.

That said, Mavic skewers do seem to be particularly shit.

The forum is full of shit, especially when it comes to problem diagnose by personal experience.

That said, Mavic skewers do seem to be particularly shit.

Agreed. For all I know the wheels are made of spreadable cheese.

I still think it would be worth checking the skewers. A cheap upgrade could make a massive difference.

I think you got the name wrong.

Mavic skewers = rattling bastard skewers of perpetual annoyance, you mean?

The forum is full of shit, especially when it comes to problem diagnose by personal experience.

That said, Mavic skewers do seem to be particularly shit.

have you got sand in your vagina today andy?

Right, the bike's on the workstand and the wheels been inspected (by my amateur eyes). It looks like the wheel needs a bit of truing and one spoke has indeed got a bit of a twist in it and sounds like a bit of tightening wouldn't go amiss. I didn't get any tools for the wheels so I've just ordered a Park spoke wrench. These wheels need a 5.5 socket and my socket set's too chunky to get through the holes in the rim.

Possibly some of the flex could be that I am running a standard chainset and could really use a few easier gears on the back but am limited by the short cage so any hill climbing tends to be more brute force and less spinning so a lot more pressure is going through the drive. Of course I may be talking complete tosh.

We'll see what happens once the tool arrives.

Of course I may be talking complete tosh.

Don't let yourself down too much, compare to me, you're a walking Encyclopedia.

You could probably put more force on the rear wheel with an easier gear. Not sure about the effect of pedal stomping.

I had the same thought too although I was thinking more of the force going to the back wheel via the frame if the bike is being rocked from side to side. If you imagine the bike leant to the left and a lot of pressure going down into the right pedal, some of this 'may' travel back through the frame and into the wheel flexing it sideways and into the cage.
As I've said above it could be down to my poor climbing technique, complete tosh, or a combination of both or indeed, something completely different.

Could be anything from were I'm standing. As AndyP hinted.

Personally I'd still go over the wheel with a spoke key, and tighten it up a smidge. Then I'd think about buying some better skewers. These things are pretty cheap and quick, considering the cost of the wheels.

So what skewers are people recommending these days?

One other area I looked again at last night was the gear hanger. I had to replace this when I got the bike (the bike was second hand and the old one snapped when refitting the rear derailleur). The new one fitted the frame spot on but the wheel was out of true with the frame so I took a file to it to line things up. I may have been a tad too enthusiastic and I only lined the wheel up by eye. It does sit pretty central between the seat stays (probably within a mm) although the mm out is in the direction which would kick the wheel over towards the cage.
All the above aside, there is no rub when I switch wheels to my Mavic Ksyriums which also have standard skewers...

Shimano have the best cam design. The Salsa flip-offs are pretty solid too.

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k1162/a3397/ultegra-quick-release-skewer-hb6600-front.html

http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k1162/a3396/ultegra-quick-release-skewer-fh6600-rear.html

Pistofski is selling some lightweight close cam (i.e. good) ones at the moment.

Schnellspanner ftw

Tune 'AC14' Road was good enough for Contador on the tour (de badged of course, like all the weight weenie non sponsored parts he uses – iLinks cable outers etc.) .. but if you really want the ability to apply the most clamp force without damaging the quick release I 2nd Smallfurry it’s Shimano or Campagnolo depending on your brand allegiance

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^ Interesting. Psychological advantage only, surely, when no-one in the peloton has a meaningfully lighter bike than anyone else? Or does Bertie prefer his 6.8kg to be made up in ballast in the frame rather than at the wheel hub?