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• #27
I agree with Rob. If you're riding on a 250 m wooden track then glue always ahead of tape.
i'll remind the mechanics at the ghent 6-day when i go this year then, that they are doing it all wrong. -
• #28
Belgian amateurs! :p
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• #29
mike - I've got an old tub rim you can have to pre-stretch your spare in the future.
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• #30
I agree with Rob. If you're riding on a 250 m wooden track then glue always ahead of tape.
i'll remind the mechanics at the ghent 6-day when i go this year then, that they are doing it all wrong.
Ghent is only 168m :-)
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• #31
ok what I will do then is fix one with glue and one with tape and see which one lasts longest. Then we can settle whats best
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• #32
i'll remind the mechanics at the ghent 6-day when i go this year then, that they are doing it all wrong.
you probably saw them taking masking tape off the carbon rims to stop glue getting on the outside.
in any case, they use their tubs for 6 nights then chuck them, mike wants to keep his for as long as possible.
are you really going to ghent this year? that's a shame
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• #33
put tape on, put tyre on, align, then pull backing paper from underneath. exactly as i do it.
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• #35
I've taped tubs in the past using Jantex tape, and they where a lot easier to remove from the rim than glued ones. Always use glue now.
My gluing method is fairly quick, masking tape on outside of rims, even layer of glue on both rim and base tape (inflate tub so base tape rolls outward), wait 30mins, another coat on the rim, wait 30mins, mount tub to rim and centre. Whack up to a hefty PSI and leave overnight.
As others have said I'd use a road tub for HH, Veloflex, new 320tpi Vittorias or Conti Sprinters for something a little cheaper
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• #36
The best tubs by far for racing are the Vittoria pista evo cs about £40 each, however they dont last long but nothing is quicker.
As for tape v glue i have and still do use both and have never had a problem with tape except for with my Campy Shamals which for some reason the tape just doesnt work with.
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• #37
I have the above Vittorias on my race wheels....amazing value compared to other top track tubs and unbelievably light.....slicks if you're only ever gonna race HH, consider the treaded ones for wooden tracks.....
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• #38
only ever used glue....no probs yet so won't change.
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• #39
Cool. The Vittoria pista evo cs it is then. Thanks for all the advice.
Should I go for the 19, 22 or 23 mm ones? What are the benefits/drawbacksAlso, one of the rims has glue residue from a previous tyre. Should this be removed with white spirits or somehting before attaching a new tub?
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• #40
It used to be road tyres stuck on with glue and track tyres with shallac, now that was a pita job.
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• #41
Narrower tyre less rolling resistance with a smaller contact patch but a harder ride I think.
Old glue I think can be used if it is clean and not contaminated with dust + dirt but you might want to start from fresh if you want to get in some practise with the glue. I found some cheap throwaway 1/2" paint brushes that made it a doddle to get good thin layers spread on.
Got my tyres mounted this morning and it was alot easier to get them on the rim than I was expecting; as stated above pre-stretched them by inflating on a rim and then put a bit of body weight into getting them on the wheel. Might be due to them being Schwalbes, all my Schwalbe clinchers have always gone on nice and easy.
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• #42
I think there's a difference between makers, I found Conti Sprinters a real pain to get on, just like their clinchers, despite having been mounted on a wheel (and ridden) for the past year.
An old Vittoria Nuovo Pro that I was re-gluing was a doddle to get on the rim
Edit - Which Schwalbe's are they adoubletap ? I'm undecided between Vittoria Rally's or Schwalbe Milano's for my commuter
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• #43
Cool. The Vittoria pista evo cs it is then. Thanks for all the advice.
Should I go for the 19, 22 or 23 mm ones? What are the benefits/drawbacksAlso, one of the rims has glue residue from a previous tyre. Should this be removed with white spirits or somehting before attaching a new tub?
leave the glue on if it's not too much of a mess, maybe just scrape it a bit, use lighter fluid or acetone ( nail polish remover) as white spirit leaves a greasy residue.
get 22, or 23c.
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• #44
I think there's a difference between makers, I found Conti Sprinters a real pain to get on, just like their clinchers, despite having been mounted on a wheel (and ridden) for the past year.
An old Vittoria Nuovo Pro that I was re-gluing was a doddle to get on the rim
Edit - Which Schwalbe's are they adoubletap ? I'm undecided between Vittoria Rally's or Schwalbe Milano's for my commuter
I got the Milanos on a very good deal from Cyclebasket @ £15 each but they bumped the price up again a bit.
I grabbed them based on a magazine test I found posted online on some tubulars that rated them best budget tubs; allegedly rolled as well as loads costing two or three times more including Sprinters and Dedatre etc.
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• #45
Good deal for £15, they're up to £23 now.. Schwalbe website has next to no info on them either
£10 for the 220tpi, Kevlar compound Rally's seems rude to turn down
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• #46
mine are 19's....coz they are faster innit? will be fine for HH.....don't forget to pump them well up for max effect, think they take up to 220psi.
Do bear in mind the cost....I punctured at HH with one....only one puncture in a season of about 30 visits to the track mind....but I might have been lucky, the repair guy in Rotherham did an excellent job though.....I had previoulsly punctured two michelin service course tubs early season...but they were getting quite old.
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• #47
I pulled a bit of glass (!) from my rear the other week, and I'm careful about making sure they are clean before going on the track, and I don't ride around the car park on the bike either.
don't have any spares atm so am bricking it
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• #48
I pulled a bit of glass (!) from my rear the other week
Ohh errr
[Someone had to]
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• #49
yeah? well I wasn't talking about tyres
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• #50
and it wasn't a shard of glass
the key is in the prep, wetting out the base tape and getting a couple of thin base coats on the rim, then you have to leave to dry.
you also need to leave them for 24.7 hours after mounting before riding