Polo Wheels (Tyres, Spokes & Rims)

Tried enduro or SKF bearings yet? Could the hub be damaged?

I'll check the wheel I've got in now as that one was new in August, but it's the same hub as the slack one, which needs respoking and I'm fitting a new axle at the same time.

How much riding have you done? How many times have you tightened the cones?

AC bearings take a while to break in, you'll need to adjust the preload a good few times as the bearings settle.

Either this wasn't @me, or I don't get it.

Moar Quotes!!!

Yeah Emyr it was for you but maybe I misread your post.

If the echo hubs have angular contact thrust (AC) bearings like the surly ones you mentioned, the preload/cones need to be tightened up a few times as the bearings settle.

From http://chrisking.com/tech/tech_hubs

(Rear:)
Break-in is a normal function of the rear hub. As the angular contact bearings settle in, this causes a loosening effect on the preload setting. Expect to adjust preload directly after the wheel build and a few more times as necessary to complete the break-in period. After that it should be smooth sailing for months... If the axle lock is torqued correctly and loosening persists, contact our Technical Service Department for further help.

Also pinkbike did a little feature on cartridge bearings a few months back that explains how AC bearings work http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-the-Point-Cartridge-Bearings-2013.html

The Echo hubs use 6k-series bearings = straight bearing. I've used Surly hubs with 7k-series ACT bearings before.

My initial question was whether anyone apart from Surly uses ACT for Fixed/SS in a 135mm OLD...

Echo TR non-disc rear: 209g, £50 from Tarty
Surly New non-disc rear 135mm: 324g, £65 from Charlie

Just checked, Surly's Ultra New hubs are back to 6901 plain cartridge, not 7901 ACT.

DMR SS 135 Disc hubs? Not bad at 40 quid. 2 London players are using them. Haven't heard any complaints from them yet. Only thing to note is to avoid the mini freewheel version when ordering! And oh yeah, change the nuts to proper track ones to avoid chewing up your dropouts.

http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/30777/DMR_SingleSpeed_Rear_Hub_DMR_HUB_SS_M_36R?gclid=CIfYzOKWm7oCFbGWtAodGSkATw

DMR SS 135 Disc hubs? Not bad at 40 quid.

288g, I've got one of those that's standard freewheel on one side and mini on the other, haven't built it up yet.

Thanks for everyone's help (esp beagle):

All spokes tight, wheel tru and round!

Y U NO "LOLICI"?

Missed a trick there.

Or, with the writing at the bottom, it could look like

• IDI OT
  

Cos he wants Louisi ;)

Y U NO "LOLICI"?

Missed a trick there.

Or, with the writing at the bottom, it could look like

[*]IDI OT

Might do that on the other rim or the other side of this.

But yeah as beagle says I'm going for a name.

Y U NO "LOLICI"?

Missed a trick there.

Or, with the writing at the bottom, it could look like

[*]IDI OT

Bro,

it's all about Brodici, bro.

Ok so what's the best 26inch 36h rim with braking surface? Pref narrow and strong.

Chukkers... If you can still find some...

There were 26 inch chuckers? I didn't know that... A quick google though just turns up lots of gt chuckers :-/

http://store.velocityusa.com/p/chukker-26-nonmsw

and y u no deep V if you want narrow?

Based on the info on Velocity's site, it looks like the MTB Deep V and a 26" Chukker are the same rim. They just used that extrusion to make more sizes and they now offer more drillings. If you found MTB Deep V's buy'em!

ex721 are just as good louis, grab the last one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mavic-EX721-36-Hole-Silver-Rim-NOS-Same-Profile-as-retro-classic-D521-/261307558305?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item3cd724e9a1

Didn't know about 26 deep v's, but I meant narrow as in, not mountain bike rims, not narrow like the difference between vs and chuckers.

Edit, perfect Ali, ordered. Cheers.

gotcha.

but skinny tyres on wide rims (within acceptable boundries) > fat tyres on narrow rims

Are 1.35 skinny or fat tyres?

Compared to other 26s they are pretty skinny, but compared to 700c tyres they are big...

Ok so what's the best 26inch 36h rim with braking surface? Pref narrow and strong.

XM819, the only holes through the rim are for the valve, nipple holders screw into the rim instead of the nipple pulling through a drilled hole. 450g, 19mm wide.

Hope Pro 2s with XC717 front, XM819 rear? http://r.ebay.com/3r7f0Y

721s and 521s are great. I tried narrow (517) but they keep going out of true. And only about 100g lighter. Depends on your style, but for many people, that doesn't mean anything.

Crazy fast/light/nimble players might notice something like that, but most people wouldn't. And most people use heavy tyres and tubes and hence minimise the benefits of lightness.

XM819, the only holes through the rim are for the valve, nipple holders screw into the rim instead of the nipple pulling through a drilled hole. 450g, 19mm wide.
http://r.ebay.com/3r7f0Y

Are they the tubeless ones? Built a few sets of those - slight pain in the arse measuring spokes (I use the retro/infallible DT Chart) and lacing them, but otherwise fine. Don't see how they'd add much, if any, strength though.

Tubeless polo might be 2014s trend though, especially with all the bursting tyres in Florida...

You can run them tubeless but I wouldn't. No holes in either layer should mean they're really strong, but I haven't learnt enough CAD and FEA to model that yet.

Polo needs a testing lab.