Locks that work

my own question

Anyone have experience of good bike mounting/carrying methods for a krypto M18? Sounds like a tricky task but if anyone knows of something that works I'm willing to give it a try.

I have a Trakke U-lock holster http://www.trakke.co.uk/product/u-lock-holsterwhich I use for my Abus mini U-lock. I'm not sure how wide the M18 is, but I can thoroughly recommend this holster - I barely notice the lock is there. On my commutes which are ca 10 miles each way I wear cycling gear though and its not much use then.

Thanks for that - I think you're right, the office bike rack will be quite secure, but I'm going to want to go out for drinks/go shopping as well and so I will have to leave it in places that are far less secure. Think I'll get a good proper size D lock and then use the U lock/cable for front wheel to frame and saddle to frame duties

The guy who came up with them actually shows this weakness in his development videos. That you can both saw or crop it, but the function of the lock relies on thieves not having a decent saw or big bolt cutters on them.

Reasonable security for the weight, but I think the awkward shape out does the niche utility.

Can be cut with 24" bolt cutters and also a hacksaw according to the review I posted previously :- http://www.mensjournal.com/expert-advice/torture-test-bike-locks-20120925

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XENA-XSU-210-BULLETT-18mm-SECURITY-U-LOCK-210-X-108mm-LAST-ONE-/330994380871?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4d10cd7047 This is a good price for a well-regarded lock

One left so don't dilly dally

Can be cut with 24" bolt cutters and also a hacksaw according to the review I posted previously :- http://www.mensjournal.com/expert-advice/torture-test-bike-locks-20120925

That review raises some interesting points:

• the knog strongman might be better designed than it seems if the silicone actually helps prevent angle grinder attack

• the blackburn san quentin is an 18mm lock that needs both sides cut and (from the looks of things) pretty attractive
  available at http://www.kenfosterscyclelogic.co.uk/m2b0s280p495/BLACKBURN-San-Quentin-2012 for £50, or 70 at all terrain cycles
  [Is this a competitor to the Fagh/M18 I wonder]

Their website also shows a 16mm lock so NYL level

• the blackburn san quentin is an 18mm lock that needs both sides cut and (from the looks of things) pretty attractive
  available at http://www.kenfosterscyclelogic.co.uk/m2b0s280p495/BLACKBURN-San-Quentin-2012 for £50, or 70 at all terrain cycles
  [Is this a competitor to the Fagh/M18 I wonder]
  
  
  

Since the metal is soft enough to be sawn through with a standard hacksaw blade, I would suggest not.

Is the Blackburn sold secure rated?

Since the metal is soft enough to be sawn through with a standard hacksaw blade, I would suggest not.

not arguing just trying to understand - how do we know that? which metals are good and which bad?

afaik most locks only specify "steel"

Is the Blackburn sold secure rated?

The Blackburn San Quentin was sawn through in 3 minutes in a test. That is pretty poor.

not arguing just trying to understand - how do we know that? which metals are good and which bad?

afaik most locks only specify "steel"

Ok, steel is the name of a group of metal alloys based on Iron, with a range of properties depending on what metals make it up, what amount of carbon is folded into it and how it's forged/quenched.
Steel includes a cheap 501 frame in my garage which I bent the top tube of with my thigh (so relatively soft) right up to the padlock on the garage door, which I tryed to hacksaw through once and just managed to blunt two hacksaw blades (also steel).
The long bendy lock above is titanium, which is softer than steel, but also lighter (gross over simplification) also a lot more expensive.
There's also tungsten, which is harder than iron and makes harder steels, you may have heard if tungsten carbide, which is really a ceramic, which is very very hard. Not sure if you can get tungsten alloy locks...they'd probably be very expensive and heavy.
And a couple of other metals which are no good on their own, but when added to steels change the properties in useful ways (chromium, magnesium) does that help with your question?

sort of.

I know (in a broad sense) about alloying and changing the various properties of metals, but I was asking in a more specific sense wrt to locks because I've never seen one advertised to be of a specific alloy or quality, except meaningless marketing like "Kryptonium".

Hence I was asking how you knew the steel in the blackburn was poorer quality than say that in an abus or krypo, although I suppose that's by the empirical test that it was sawn through

That's a marketing question really.

Marketing for the manufacturer but for us the buyers it would be very useful.

Essentially this thread and secondary locks primarily classify by thickness, except that one exception for the granit, and so if they published data/even some vague claim as to the properties of the steel used, we'd have much better information.

And some locks would presumably go up or down the lists as appropriate.

I'd start at stainless steel, then work downwards.

Xena Bullett XUL
Abus Granit Extreme 59
Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini
Kryptonite New York M-18
Artago 18ART 270

Everything else

and this is my method of locking the bike up;

Thanks for these shots. I use this method (with those exact locks) and feel quite happy about leaving my bike locked all day.

I like to get the lock through the drive side spider too if possible.

I really prefer to have both wheels locked to frame and stand, which makes the Mini Evo just not work with 9 out of 10 stands.

Has anyone got any suggestions for the best value sold secure gold rated d-lock?

Look at the list on page 1 of this thread, and the price guides should help you.

http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-cricket-your-bike-s-first-line-of-defense--3

When that has more than iPhone support, I'll add it to Secondary Locks.
Interesting concept.

It also needs to be inside the frame rather than on the seat rails.

I really prefer to have both wheels locked to frame and stand, which makes the Mini Evo just not work with 9 out of 10 stands.

I've got one too and have resorted to just going around one chain/seat stay and the wheel rim and stand. I've managed to get it round rim+stand+main triangle once or twice but it's fiendishly hard IMO

can anybody recommend a lock which comes with a mount which doesnt rattle loads?

Abus Granit x-plus 54 with Eazy KF mount.