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• #77
start with looks or spd-sl
you won't pull out unless you twist your foot or have the tension too low (or you have unpredictable old second hand spd-r with a loose tension screw..ahem)
those MKS things look like the solution for JKA riders and some US match sprinters. all very far removed from your first season at Herne Hill
if/once you become regular at the track, you may start to favour another system, but don't forget having straps and a release system like those mks things means you have to stop on the fence, or roll on the grass, ride slowly,or trackstand and be able to undo them and get a foot out before you fall off. (or you need a catcher) Not always easy at the end of a hard race, and stopping on the fence in the middle of an exercise/race isn;t usually an option either.
Far better to add a strap to your spd-sl or look pedals as a failsafe later on anyway
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• #78
I'm sure road pedals are the way to go, but for the record, I've never had any grief using ATACs. No unclipping on the track, and the same goes for standing start practice, bumpy 200rpm descents, and form destroying hillclimbs.
Choice is probably more based on compatibility with existing kit in your arsenal, and/or cost.
(Unless you're into buying stuff for status, or have four legs and a thick white fibrous substance covering your body.)
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• #79
?
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• #80
I've got a new pair of Look Keo's and brand new cleats.
/attachments/17460
£30? In Brixton/Herne Hill area.
1 Attachment
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• #81
I'm sure road pedals are the way to go, but for the record, I've never had any grief using ATACs. No unclipping on the track, and the same goes for standing start practice, bumpy 200rpm descents, and form destroying hillclimbs.
yes yes, as you always say. but until you try a proper pedal that holds you foot instead of letting it move around (as it should for off road riding but not for track) then you are just providing one side to your experience. How much faster would your hillclimbs have been??
Unless of course you have ridden with SPD-R, SPD-SL or Look with zero float cleats? in which case you are simply mad.Get over it, manchester and newport* don't allow mtb pedals cos if you fall of there's more chance of trashing the wood.
*this may be a lie, but it's a true lie.
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• #82
Hey, JC - I posted on your fork thread, in case you hadn't seen it. The item mentioned would currently be £50 on Wiggle if you did the email newsletter subscribe/unsubscibe/get £5 off £50+ thingy.
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• #83
yes yes, as you always say. but until you try a proper pedal that holds you foot instead of letting it move around (as it should for off road riding but not for track) then you are just providing one side to your experience. How much faster would your hillclimbs have been??
Unless of course you have ridden with SPD-R, SPD-SL or Look with zero float cleats? in which case you are simply mad.Get over it, manchester and newport* don't allow mtb pedals cos if you fall of there's more chance of trashing the wood.
*this may be a lie, but it's a true lie.
I did some hillclimbs with road pedals. Maybe not down to the pedals, but I was slower on those occasions. Plus I know how to pedal, and don't squish around - the float's there to stop me wrenching my ankles/knees in extreme circumstances.
I can't afford decent road and mtb shoes, so, based on what I own already in the pedal department, and the riding I do, it's carbon-soled mtb shoes with ATACs until someone wants to sponsor me.
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• #84
BTW, I also use additional shims between sole and cleat - partly to protect the carbon sole, but it also has the effect of tightening spring tension. I quite like it, and might consider getting some more made up by a metalworker…
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• #85
I can't afford decent road and mtb shoes, so, based on what I own already in the pedal department, and the riding I do, it's carbon-soled mtb shoes with ATACs until someone wants to sponsor me.
this is absolutely fair, but the guy doesn't already have clippless. And I wouldn't recommend an mtb system over a road system for track if he is buying fresh.
As always, pedals are a bit of a personal thing and people seem to get very defensive of their choices. I like the feel and security of spd-r, and was lucky enough to bag a few pairs for free and cheap. I will be putting straps on them for sprints though for peace of mind (and to hold the top of the shoe down) but shoes for them are hard to come by unless you go very cheap or very expensive and the better models are all discontinued. They cleats are bitches to get to stay on,and the bolts made of cheese.so I would never recommend them to someone looking for thier first track pedal.
After riding road pedals with zero float for about a year now, I can't go back to atacs, I have tried (cos they are ok for fixie riding in town) and they feel like shite.
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• #86
BTW, I also use additional shims between sole and cleat - partly to protect the carbon sole, but it also has the effect of tightening spring tension.
how? the spring bars of the pedals rest between the cleat and whatever surface the cleat is bolted to, unless the part of the shim where the cleat bolts is squashed down a bit, leaving the outer part of the shim fatter, so the cleat is recessed slightly?
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• #87
Buy alternative bolts - I got some from a place (beginning with 's'?) that someone posted about on here. Much better than pedal manufacturers stock stuff, and cheap too.
I'm not sure about the effect of an increase in tension - yes, the shim material gets a bit of a bar indent. I think the bar's just being squashed into a smaller area, so there's more friction on it :S
I'm not being fucking defensive, you cunt.
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• #88
I'd be wary of buying shoes by mail order, especially from ebay. You don't want to find that the shoes don't fit after trying them out on the bike and being unable to return them.
Is it me or the Shimano shoes always come up too tight?!
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• #89
Buy alternative bolts - I got some from a place (beginning with 's'?) that someone posted about on here. Much better than pedal manufacturers stock stuff, and cheap too.
I used ordinary cleat bolts, and some allhehads in the end, I think mike did with his too, but the spd-r bolts are esoteric, both different and with different special washers. one of them isn't usually long enough and gets threaded.
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• #90
Anyone used the KEYWIN CRM pedals with track adaptors , http://www.keywin.com/track.html , http://www.keywin.com/crmclipless.html? NZ made, not sure you can get them in the UK but in USA, Australia and NZ people love them.
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• #91
Hi, next season will be my first on the track (herne hill) and i'm looking to swith to clipless, **now i have always used clips and straps **so know nothing about spd's. I have read the thread and there does not seem to be a definitive answer as to which are best. Basically what would you guys recommend as having the best and strongest retention? (i don't want to be flying off my pedals)
And eqaully what sort of shoes should i be looking for? one problem is i have size 13 feet, which will probably make finding shoes more difficult.
Thanks in advance
I have to ask, why not just use them then? People have raced bikes with clips and straps for over 80 years without issue.
We all like having new toys, but why not try the track first, before spending £150+ on pedals and shoes?
I am sure you will love it etc, but there are many forumoungers who have built and bought this that and the other in the off season, only to ride the track about 3 times and give up.Just a thought.
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• #92
he does have a point...
I was on clips and straps when I first rode the track. for about 6 sessions on a hire bike until I eventually got a suitable track bike and pedals!
people do put too much emphasis on gear before the riding, most tracks have perfectly suitable bikes for hire so you don't even need a bike to participate!
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• #93
I miss the track. :-(
Just wanted to share that with you.
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• #94
I miss the track, Does anyone know when it is open again?
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• #95
6th March
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• #96
get yo'selves down to newport or calshot then!!
I feel a massive need for newport...
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• #97
I have to ask, why not just use them then? People have raced bikes with clips and straps for over 80 years without issue.
We all like having new toys, but why not try the track first, before spending £150+ on pedals and shoes?
I am sure you will love it etc, but there are many forumoungers who have built and bought this that and the other in the off season, only to ride the track about 3 times and give up.Just a thought.
Very good point, and thanks for saving me lots of money :)
I have mks royal nuevo's and double straps and clips, i'l simply take those off my rode bike when i'm at the track, then when i'm a pro i'l get some proper gear...
Thanks for the reality check :)
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• #98
Guy's very shrewd. He's never bought redundant cycling gear.
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• #99
Guy's very shrewd. He's never bought redundant cycling gear.
Ye, not like those people who buy so much stuff that they just have to throw it out....
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• #100
Or like those who were offered the free friggin' pedals and did not pick them up! You bastards :-)
Personally I'd go for some carbon soled shoes at they are, in my experience at least, noticeably stiffer than plastic soled shoes.
Those pedals look a bit OTT for racing at HH. They might offer the worst of both worlds too. :-)
Personally I'd go for a road system such as Look Keo, as you can get cleats for them at most shops, rather than having to go to a specialist one or mail order. The only time I've seen anyone pull their foot out of the pedal was at one of the forum track days last year, when it happened twice if memory serves. Most regular riders just tighten the release mechanism on the pedal and have no problems.