Bike fit / correct riding position

Depends how hard and fast you're pushing them. :)

Assuming speed/power is the same

Like most things in cycling - it varies from person to person.

Good answer.

I have a question about crank length, (sorry if I have missed an earlier answer to this).

I currently have 175 mm cranks on my road bike and 165 mm on track bike. Given that the road bike is mainly for training, would I be better running a shorter crank to more closely replicate the track set up? Is there any injury risk or other considerations before switching to 170mm on the road bike? This is a live question, as I am changing groupset in July.

I doubt you'll notice the difference. I've got bikes with 165mm (track), 170mm (TT), 172.5mm (road) and 175mm (MTB) cranks and to be perfectly honest I can't tell the difference between them when I'm riding.

Whilst I agree that optimal length differs (by individual and by intended use), my question is whether consistency across bikes yielded any performance benefits when the purpose is to train for a given purpose (rather than use each bike for a distinct purpose). I'm inclined to go for a 170mm road crank I think.

If you think you feel a difference, then you'll feel the difference.

Can't see why you wouldn't want to go for 170, only change you need to make is probably lowered the saddle a tad.

If you think you feel a difference, then you'll feel the difference.

This. If I know my saddle is a couple of mm different to usual, I cant help but think it's restricting my awesome power output.

I lowered my saddle when I moved to midfoot and produce just as much power as before. I'm faster because my fat guts is now and aerofoil with the top tube. ;)

Are you a sprinter or an enduro racer? That will go some way to deciding your optimal crank length. I'd be inclined to go as long as possible on the track if I was riding enduro and then match with the road bike if that's where most training happens. If it seems to hamper your jumps, maybe it was the wrong choice. I think you need to experimetn though.

Whilst I agree that optimal length differs (by individual and by intended use), my question is whether consistency across bikes yielded any performance benefits when the purpose is to train for a given purpose (rather than use each bike for a distinct purpose). I'm inclined to go for a 170mm road crank I think.

I'm sensitive to small adjustments in bike fit. When I made the change to 170's across my bikes it made a massive difference to how I felt on the bike. Especially at high cadence.

I couldn't tell you if that actually improved my performance, there are far too many other variables to that, but it did make me marginally happier.

By the way, I've got a spare 170mm track crankset you can try out.

If it seems to hamper your jumps.

?

I'm sensitive to small adjustments in bike fit. When I made the change to 170's across my bikes it made a massive difference to how I felt on the bike. Especially at high cadence.

v

If you think you feel a difference, then you'll feel the difference.

Just thought it was worth mentioning Rutland are doing a free bike fit for non sale bikes over £500. They're also doing women's bike fits for £80 at the moment.

Cost: £120 -
Length of bike fit session: 2 to 2.5 hours
Location: Our Whitwell store
How to book: advance booking is essential, so call our bike fit team on 01780 460 705 – we're open 7 days a week

CURRENT OFFERS

Offer 1: Free bike fit worth £120 with every new bike over £500

Terms and conditions:
Offer valid on bikes purchased online only between Sat 1.6.13 and Sun 30.6.13
Offer only applies to bikes purchased at full RRP

...

Offer 2: Bike fit reduced to £80 for women only

As part of our Women's Month of Cycling promotion we are offering a professional bike fit for a reduced rate of £80.

Terms and conditions:

Offer available for bookings made by women in June 2013 only
Bike fit service is available at our Whitwell store at Rutland Water, in the East Midlands (postcode: LE15 8BL)

I lowered my saddle when I moved to midfoot and produce just as much power as before. I'm faster because my fat guts is now and aerofoil with the top tube. ;)

Are you a sprinter or an enduro racer? That will go some way to deciding your optimal crank length. I'd be inclined to go as long as possible on the track if I was riding enduro and then match with the road bike if that's where most training happens. If it seems to hamper your jumps, maybe it was the wrong choice. I think you need to experimetn though.

I moved my cleats loads back in an experiment. Not as much as midfoot of course.

I then moved my saddle forward the same amount, and up. Thinking my fit triangle would be the same just tilted forward.

Riding a small frame I get crazy toe overlap. But overall I love it. Thought I'd end up with too much weight on my hands. But I actually find the oposite to be true.

Seem to be able to get my front lower before I reach the point of thigh/ponch overlap.

Hi all,

Where's somewhere good to get a bike fit without ridiculous prices?

cadence? Condor?

Or just find a friend who knows about bikes and get them to look at you on a bike. Will probably eliminate 98% of your issues straight away.

Nice one. How much do they cost roughly?

no bikefit is the new bikefit.

^ Oh, Google is your friend.

I think Condor is about £100 ish

Cadence starts at £140. Sigma also do fits for reasonable money. Kinoko do them for £150

Or just find a friend who knows about bikes and get them to look at you on a bike. Will probably eliminate 98% of your issues straight away.

A very good solution, give you the right size frame to start with.

Condor's 80 quid.

Is that when buying their bicycle or not?

Joss PM Lockside he will sort bike fit for you at Sigma

Is that when buying their bicycle or not?

Not. I turned up with the Dentist's Chair, and the only thing I bought from them that day was some rim tape and insoles.

Or just find a friend who knows about bikes and get them to look at you on a bike. Will probably eliminate 98% of your issues straight away.

My very unproffessional approach. requirees friend.

Set cleats a mm or two behind the ball of your foot, and as far out as possible without fouling the cranks when you pedal.

Set saddle height to 109% of the distance from pedal axle (at lowest point) to saddle top.

Set cranks to 3:45, drop a plum line from your front knee, and with this over the pedal axle. Move your saddle untill its 'sweetspot' is directly under your sit bones.

Try to set the bars such that, when your arms are striaght, they make a 90 degree angle with your body. When on the hoods. (you should'nt ride with straight arms, but the priciple works for me, for set-up). While getting them as low as your flexibility will allow.

Thats going to net you a good starting point. When you go for the first few rides like this. Take a multitool and make adjustments as you feel the need. Dont wiat untill you get back home. Make adjustments firstly from the front. You set-up your bike up from cleats forward, and the errors build up, along the way. So its the front that is the least dialled to start with.

IMHO, YEMV, etc.