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• #327
It could be your bottom. Perhaps it's reacting with the saddle. Magnets. Wow.
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• #328
Have you thought about having a bike fit?
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• #329
It could be your bottom.
You mean he needs a bigger bottom to balance out the weight of his massive head?
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• #330
Have you thought about having a bike fit?
How would that answer the question Ed?
Other than being able to ask the person doing the fit "what is the root cause of sliding forward on the saddle when making an effort turning the pedals?"
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• #331
Second question being, if the answer to the first is "because being over the centreline of the BB is more biomechanically efficient", "why don't we sit close to the centre line all the time, instead of sitting behind that point and only coming forward under power".
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• #332
Gooch Pressure Limitation Factor™
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• #333
But if you move the entire saddle forward then you are going to be resting on your sit bones- and will be slightly more upright with the same bar position I would have thought?
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• #334
And more pressure on the handlebar (depend on the person's geometry).
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• #335
Then you're taking out the All Powerful Glutes™.
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• #336
Hmm, so TT'ers don't use much Glute?
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• #337
Teetotallers don't, no.
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• #338
Dammit have you been working out your legs before in a gym for instance?
its more natural for the body to find the logically shortest route for the legs when you are applying pressure on whatever. this might cause your body moving to the point where its more directly above the bb, i.e. source of resistance. -
• #339
Then you're taking out the All Powerful Glutes™.
Isn't that some sort of 'strayan car? As in "Holden glute"? -
• #340
FJ Holden Glute ^
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• #341
Kona Glute:
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• #342
Gluten Tag
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• #343
I have a question about crank length, (sorry if I have missed an earlier answer to this).
I currently have 175 mm cranks on my road bike and 165 mm on track bike. Given that the road bike is mainly for training, would I be better running a shorter crank to more closely replicate the track set up? Is there any injury risk or other considerations before switching to 170mm on the road bike? This is a live question, as I am changing groupset in July.
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• #344
Do you need 165mm on the track? What events do you ride?
I try to keep crank length consistent across bikes. If your position is very different though it might be irrelevant anyway.
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• #345
A broad diet of whatever is scheduled at track league / open season events. I like the 165s, so preference would be to go shorter on the road not longer on the track.
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• #346
It's more of a personal choice rather, unless you're a professional cyclists whom required the utmost necessary of pushing every strength of your EPO ridden muscle to get that marginal gain of 0.02 of a second on the Champs-Élysées time trial, it doesn't really matter.
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• #347
It's more of a personal choice rather, unless
you're a professional cyclists whom required the utmost necessary of pushing every strength of your EPO ridden muscle to get that marginal gain of 0.02 of a second on the Champs-Élysées time trial, it doesn't really matter.you want moar fast!Personally I like to keep the same length across my bikes. I've seen ridiculous pedal striking crank lengths recommended for my height ( 6'7" ), but have no problem at all with 175's.
Apart from my being inherently weak :-(
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• #348
Longer cranks = more leverage = more stress on your knees = lower RPM
True or false?
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• #349
Depends how hard and fast you're pushing them. :)
Well I'm glad that we got to the bottom of that one.