Bike fit / correct riding position

That's going to change a little over time though isn't it? Especially if your flexibility improves - bike fit isn't a forever thing.
As Ed says - tip of the saddle to the centre of bars. Make sure your levers are the same place on the bars too, sounds stupid but it's easily done.

Sometimes it feels counter intuitive to lower your bars, but it's often the best way to get the right elbow angle.

Well I had a bike fit at Cadence on Saturday morning and must say I'm very happy with the service. I know that Sherrit (spelling?) is the go-to guy as far as the majority of the forum is concerned but Cadence is local to me, cheaper, next to no waiting list so I thought why not!

The fit was a present from my parents for my bday, and it was my first bike fit in 6 years of regular daily cycling. Probably a bit late in the day but better than never!

Was booked in with a chap called Alex and after 2.5 hours I'm a lot more body aware of my cycling "issues" and where/what I need to work on physiologocally. Needless to say this revolves around the classic tight glutes and hamstrings but at least I have had a professional tell me which will make me do the excersies rather than listening to the internet and missus bang on at me about not being flexible.

Cadence use the Retul system - a few adjustments were made and I feel a lot happier on the bike now, plus I have the magic measurements sheet to help inform my new future bike/frameset purchases. All in all a very good service and does what it says on the tin!

#internetbikefit needed, I have a sore right knee, only my right knee its been getting worse over the last few months, I at first thought it was due to running, so i stopped running but its still getting worse, running coincided with starting cycling a lot more and now the only exercise im doing is cycling so I am confidently blaming that

Its the front under kneecap when I apply pressure (can be as simple as walking up the stairs hurts some days),

Google suggests this as cleat position (too far back) or saddle too low. My saddle doesn't feel too low, so It may be cleats being wrong, does that sound likely ?

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/11932618/

Don't have the money for these things at the moment

Could be bursitis
RICE and see if that helps first.

Or knee cancer

Probably knee cancer

Unless your cleat posistion has effectively changed (thicker socks, new shoes etc) then I hazard a guess it could be what effects me each winter... colder, damp weather = tighter tendons and reduced function.

Are you feeling more inclined to ride on the nose/further forward than before and the saddle's feeling a little high?

Don't try an ride through knee pain. Rest is best and then gentle reintroduction of all the riding/rollers/running.

#notanexpert

I have pretty much the same thing. Right knee, sharp pain in kneecap, although sometimes feels like a hot sharp pain above the kneecap. Walking downstairs hurts more though.

I'm pretty sure I know the cause. New road bike, different geo, different saddle etc.
Weirdly my fixed that I use every day doesn't cause any pain. if anything it relieves it!

Long story short, I have taken many measurements comparing the 2 and found that the Cannondale roadie added about 30mm from saddle nose to centre of hoods. Explained why I felt like the bike was a bit too big. I have moved things around to make them identical so we'll see if that helps.

It is risky though because the only way to test is to go riding and potentially doing more damage!

But rest will definitely be needed. Last time this happened to me I stopped riding for a week and then when I did start again I did so with really spinny gearing and high cadence. Pushing a big gear will aggravate it.

Anyone know what leads to fatigue in shin area? On fixed gear bike only, usually at higher rpms. I'm guessing my calves have become the weak link?

Cleats are already as far back as they can go (as per scherrit fit a few years ago)

It's no good, you need a custom bike.

Its around the time i switched to road pedals and guessed the cleat position, i did tweak it a few tomes when i got them till it "felt" right so maybe its just wrong

Did you adjust your saddle height when switched to road pedal?

Internet Bike fit advice needed please. I'm building up a 52cm caad10 at the moment and just plugged all my measurements into the competitive cyclist fit calculator and the results were as follows:
Top Tube Length 52.9 - 53.3 Cm
Seat Tube Range CC 53.1 - 53.6 Cm
Seat Tube Range CT 54.7 - 55.2 Cm
Stem Length 10.7 - 11.3 Cm
BB Saddle Position 72.6 - 74.6 Cm
Saddle Handlebar 51 - 51.6 Cm
Saddle Setback 4.7 - 5.1 Cm
Seatpost Type: Not Setback

The top tube on the 52cm frame is 53.5cm which is shorter than on my previous bikes so I imagined that I would need a set back post but the fit is telling me to go with inline? and also with the stem I thought I'd need a 12omm but it sounds like I should be going for a 110mm?

Any input appreciated, feel free to call me a noob.

Could be allsorts. If the pain runs down the outside of the leg maybe try using a massage roller on the IT band?

#againnotanexpert

I have taken many measurements comparing the 2 and found that the Cannondale roadie added about 30mm from saddle nose to centre of hoods.

nope

Road and MTB pedals have different stack height.

There you go – also deserving of a colombo.gif.

Having your saddle to high is a classic way to mess-your-knees-up.

Anyone had a bike fit of any of the Giant shops?

No but the guys at Kentish Town are very good.

For bike fitting or generally?
I think i'm eligable for a cheaper bike fit over there because I bought a bike from them.

Talk to @owenreed.

When you get a bike fit, is it just for one bike? I would imagine the fit for road/mtb/cross/polo are all different?

Yep, for one bike. Unless otherwise agreed.