Time Trial / Time Trialling / TT

NHRC 14th Sept should be good enough

Might be at a wedding. Depends on start time.

Great results this year hippy :0)

Just need to beat my 25 time then I'll have the full set of PBs again.

The fixed gear BAR table? Nah.
Skinny needs to ride a 50 this year, any left?

No, RealBAR™

Skinny needs to ride a 50 this year, any left?

H50/4 on the 15th

H50/4 on the 15th

F1/25 revenge.

http://www.lfgss.com/thread112500.html#post3803425

if anyones interested

Experienced some numbness today on the road bike, doing HARD intervals. But it disappeared in the recovery window. Which leads me to hypothesise, that a lack of blood to the area, due to it going to my legs, might be causing the issue, not saddle height or saddle type. I was also seeing stars, so clearly a lack of blood to my little brain too.

I'd say I'll experiment further. But that's not a pleasant thought.

pretty awesome

I've been wanting to start TTing for a while now but 1 I don't have a club and 2 I'm pretty busy for the next couple of months so it's unlikely I'll get to any until the new year so I was wondering does anyone know of a 10 mile course as near as possible to central london that I could use to get a feel for it out of hours so as to speak.

TT season is nearly over anyway, by next season lfgss.cc should be up, running and affiliated so you could join that.

TT courses are not always the nicest place to train (H10/10 is an exception), but then riding TT courses isn't necessarily the best training for TTs anyway. You're unlikely to learn how to pace a 10 by riding one, it's a few attempts at racing them which teach you. You're only about 12 aren't you? Just enjoy a mix of bike riding over the winter but make sure you include some interval sessions, and strap your pointy hat on next March to see how it's going.

Cheers tester, unfortunately I won't be able to join lfgss.cc because of my age.

OK, join a local club. As you're in NW, Willesden seems an obvious choice, despite Hippy's presence :-)

On the topic of pacing, I've never had to learn to pace. It's just something that happens automatically for me. I don't even have to think, I just ride hard and my body rides in the right place naturally. Interesting that other people have to think about it.

But the principle of don't go to hard. Starting a TT your endocrine system is pumping and you'll not feel a single thing. A few mins later and you'll be paying for going to hard. If you think you're not going to hard, you're still going too hard!! This is the only time I'll use a powermeter really, to keep a lid on it for the first mile. Make it easier than guess where the lid is and going too easy/hard.

I'm starting to plan a budget fixed TT bike for next year, but I need a little advice re frame sizing. I already have a 56cm P2 (geared) with this geometry and I want to match my position as closely as possible, but I'm getting a bit confused by geometries.

A tentative first option would be to look for an old frame, but I've got no idea where to start looking. If I simply look for something with a 54-55cm top tube (my P2 has 54.5cm eTT with 78° seat post) would that give me something in roughly the right ball park? I don't know enough about geometries to know how either a traditional road geometry or track geometry would affect the fit? I'm assuming that it's slightly more complicated than matching the top tube because presumably the variations in the length and angle of the seat tube/head tube mean it will be difficult for me to get my saddle and bars into a comfortable position.

Since very few bikes on here are listed with anything more than top tube/seat tube information I was also wondering whether something like the On-One Macinato might be a good solution (at least they provide a geometry chart). If I went for a size medium then the eTT length would be similar to my P2 (54.1cm compared to 54.5cm) but then I'm left with exactly the same set of questions as before.

I normally ride a 56cm frame. I use a 52cm frame for TTing. I think a 52 or a 53 is generally the thing to aim for.

I'm guessing you need to look at seat tube angle and head tube length.

If you have a really low TT position a non-TT specific frame will often have a head tube too tall to allow you to get low enough without using a negative rise stem.

If you have your saddle forward over the BB for your TT position you might find non-TT specific frames often have low seat tube angles which make this impossible too. Road frames ~73 degrees, track ~74 which equates to a saddle several cm further behind the BB than on your 78 degree P2. You can slam the saddle forward and use a zero-offset seat post to minimise the effect though.

If you dont want a super low front end and a super steep seat angle the Macinato might work.

74 to 73 deg is only a 10mm difference, easily changeable with a non-layback seatpost and putting the saddle forward on the rails.

Draw a triangle of your current setup, rotate it forwards until you've worked out a balance of weight between your arse and your elbow.

Depends on how new the frame you're going to using is. Newer frames do have taller headtubes but then a good budget frame would be a little older.

This is mine -

It matches my road bike position rotated forwards a little. Once you have the basic position done you then tweak it more specific to suit TTing.

Humph I'm not with my bike at the moment but if I guess my saddle-BB length as being about 80cm, and I compare the seat tube angles for the Macinato (73.5°) and the P2 (78°) then I would need to move the saddle about 60mm further forward to get the same position relative to the BB (I'm not sure even Gaston can achieve that!?). I'll need to do some more measuring and trigonometry to work out the details for my front end.

Do you need to be so far forward?

I don't need to be so far forward, but thats how my P2 fits me and I'd like to replicate the position if I can.

This is how the P2 is set up at the moment , and this is how I look on the bike. It's a bit further forward than a "conventional TT position" and definitely breaks UCI rules but I don't think it's an unusual position for a slvlss. Either way it seems to work for me and I'd rather replicate it if possible.

Trigonometry is only used in school and doesn't apply to real life problems.

I'm offing my black Bell javelin medium if anyone is keen.

And bike sizing is so hard, untill you've got a bike and got a good position on that, it's hard. From there you can measure stack and reach needed and then use that as it's transferable. For me, my bike is on the limit of stack, I can't get it any lower, but I don't need too, just. I do have armrests on top of the base bar though and the stem as negative as it will go, due to the felt integrated system.

Maybe you can borrow a bike of someone, get a position on that and then move from there. Or use your bike to measure stack and reach needed, and then move from there onto a different frame. Obviously you'd need to measurements for a slacker seat-tube, but this could be done as mentioned by reversed seatpost. And the issue will be stack. But again, you can always run a big negative stem.

TLDR. Stack and Reach are king. Not tube measurements.

Replacing it with anything nice?

A smaller one. ;)

Without going to a tunnel I can't really confirm anything else will be faster, well I could, but it'd be hard to quantify.
And I'm down to .19 CdA already without traffic assistance. So I think I'd be pushed to get much lower.

I wouldn't mind trying something like this.
If someone knows what it is? Or there's a black one similar I see about. Justyn Cannon has one.

I wouldn't mind trying something like this.
If someone knows what it is?

Looks like a Giro Rev 5, they are not very nice.