Which Groupset?

Much as it pleases me that you have taken this step onto the darkside. I've heard nothing good about those PX calipers.

http://fairwheelbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=104&t=7582

Reading this review made me happy.

Reading this review made me happy.

I think he underrates the TRP 960's. They stop with such a nice ramp of braking force, and are totally flex free.

I'm not denigrating yours- I just liked the positive review of the EE's.

They win the "most abused" component award on my bike- beating even the stem.

pretty much all those brakes are out of my budget - the appeal of the PX ones was saving 130g for an extra £20. Are they really that bad? I think dubtap had some on his Allez - Steve, can you comment?

I can't really afford anything over £100 - I would go DA, as I know that they are the benchmark for brakes, but they aren't that light either, and pricey. Maybe I'll just stick with the Ultegra brakes and eat one less meal a week..

Are you getting the GS as a package?

If so then I'd keep the brakes. Shimano make good brakes. Is it worth paying to upgrde for something that isn't an upgrade?

This my favourate thing about Sram. If you're a picky bastard, that wants to spec their own brakes, and crankset. Simply buy their 3 piece groupset. Simples.

Also have you looked at the breakdown of the weight of each item in a groupset?

I think overall weights can be misleading... seem to remember as a whole on some basis Campag having the lightest.

Allez *Elite *if you please ;)

I've actually just taken the PX brakes off and put Ultegra on cos the new near-black version is sexxay.

I never had any problems with them until I changed my stock cables to Jagwires and couldn't get them to play nicely with a wider A23 rim on rear wheel but that might have been more to do with inept guaging of correct housing length from rear cable stop. There's no QR or centring adjustment bolt on them like Shimano so you can't fine tune pad distance as easily.

andyp has them on his winter training bike too but I think his comments elsewhere on here are that he wouldn't want to be descending an Alp on them but they are fine.

edit hippy and braker have also run them so I think you have quite a good sample of fast moving lumps that need some stopping who seem to be happy with them.

Are you getting the GS as a package?

If so then I'd keep the brakes. Shimano make good brakes. Is it worth paying to upgrde for something that isn't an upgrade?

I won't be buying as a group as I don't need the crankset and am picky about chains/cassettes - planning on picking it up slowly on the bay to save myself some pennies.

Also have you looked at the breakdown of the weight of each item in a groupset?

I think overall weights can be misleading... seem to remember as a whole on some basis Campag having the lightest.

http://totalcycling.com/component-weights.html

part-by-part brakedown

Allez *Elite *if you please ;)

I've actually just taken the PX brakes off and put Ultegra on cos the new near-black version is sexxay.

I never had any problems with them until I changed my stock cables to Jagwires and couldn't get them to play nicely with a wider A23 rim on rear wheel but that might have been more to do with inept guaging of correct housing length from rear cable stop. There's no QR or centring adjustment bolt on them like Shimano so you can't fine tune pad distance as easily.

andyp has them on his winter training bike too but I think his comments elsewhere on here are that he wouldn't want to be descending an Alp on them but they are fine.

edit hippy and braker have also run them so I think you have quite a good sample of fast moving lumps that need some stopping who seem to be happy with them.

Are calling me a lump? ;)

... at least I'm fast moving if so..

Also have you looked at the breakdown of the weight of each item in a groupset?

I think overall weights can be misleading... seem to remember as a whole on some basis Campag having the lightest.

The Campag mechs and levers have a good weight for their stiffness. The cranksets or brake calipers, are'nt overly light though.

I won't be buying as a group as I don't need the crankset and am picky about chains/cassettes - planning on picking it up slowly on the bay to save myself some pennies.
.

This basically what I did. Would have been cheaper if I had'nt been so anal about everything being 2010 SR

Keep an eye out for these...
http://www.farandnear.com.tw/product/main_view.php?id=98

I'd recommend an upgrade to full 5700 - I had 5600 and 5700 feels like an improvement and tidies your handlebars a bit. FD shifting is brilliant, RD is less mushy than 5600 but not quite as good as Apex.

Buying 40cm bars, the perfect excuse for 5700 levers to start, brakes and mechs to match, and wheel set to rid the 5600 hubs ;)

hopes for money to fall out of the sky

I've got 5600 105 shifters everything else is 5700. Not sure if I'd notice any difference in new shifters, apart from the cables running under the tape, which is lovely.

http://road.cc/content/news/52299-sram-red-hydraulic-discs-and-rim-brakes-spy-shots-land

for a retard like me can someone explain why the need for hydraulics ? is it just for the extra braking power ? lightness ? so you always have something not quite working right on your bike ( something to tinker with ) ?
any other reasons

It's for modulation and power mainly. I like the idea of disc brakes for cyclocross but so far, having tried cable operated discs, they just don't offer any improvement over cantilever brakes. I'd expect hydraulic brakes to be significantly better in terms of performance, and they'd work in even the shittiest conditions.

^^ dicki -

Normal road calipers have power and modulation but no mud clearance

Cantilevers have modulation, mud clearance and no 'power' and are a PITA to set up

V brakes have modulation, mud clearance, power but don't work with most road leavers

Mini-v brakes have power, modulation, work with road leavers but don't have enough mud clearance

Cable pull discs have power, mud clearance, work with road leavers but have no modulation (and for some people, just don't work at all) and need occasional adjustment and are a PITA to set up (although they work for me, go figure)

Hydraulic road discs / leavers: power, modulation, reliability, consistency: should just work for everyone in all situations...

....Unless your brake fluid boils or you get air in the line ;)

Added advantage of not grinding your rims down, too and not requiring specific pads for different rim surfaces.

Imagine how light a tubular rim, with no brake surface requirements would be.

Way ahead of you there

And imagine the blingy rotors you could buy! faints

I'm just having my Dave Yates restored / resprayed by Dave Yates - when it comes back I'm thinking of building it up with campag Athena (always been shimao Ultegra on all my bikes to date). Anyone with experience of Athena they can share?

#oldtimers

This would be more authentic, no?

so you always have something not quite working right on your bike ( something to tinker with ) ?

haven't touched the magura rim brakes on my MTB for 12 years. Still work like on day 1.
Its also amazing how you can feel exactly when the pads touch the rim and can modulate
the power as if you had your fingers on the rim.